tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-92194937707026103822024-03-27T08:59:19.436-07:00The Flyin' Liz RyenJust me and my bike, traveling to amazing places and meeting great people.Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.comBlogger101125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-89606560568848124892024-03-27T08:51:00.000-07:002024-03-27T08:51:28.247-07:00The Last Road Home<p> 22 March</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsvSTUYI2kKJ1GF9lPvRcC7mIfXfxZzluxnFLvphftDRGseLszqZAXSNfxbiRapH5al5hvWlQiKK_ab4Uq8mBatj-cE5ig-n3NQfwMELRIuqY1I-SUUw-J9yCbSqOYAD3bvBfpr7bdKn4UPb5rteDt6esdGTPdm_1dWSW15l2x65iVvhVknUulpFdTOKwu/s4032/PXL_20240322_195102151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsvSTUYI2kKJ1GF9lPvRcC7mIfXfxZzluxnFLvphftDRGseLszqZAXSNfxbiRapH5al5hvWlQiKK_ab4Uq8mBatj-cE5ig-n3NQfwMELRIuqY1I-SUUw-J9yCbSqOYAD3bvBfpr7bdKn4UPb5rteDt6esdGTPdm_1dWSW15l2x65iVvhVknUulpFdTOKwu/w640-h480/PXL_20240322_195102151.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2OCKSSzmlOTvhWxsnM4sNOCmSdkE4gWj0h06ZYV2cgrWEcdJDMiQC_yFAE5ckDv6d5ijk7Fqljqy3QOYwbEmJKXjS3VWZOU78-EodOaocBW5UsSslkYAcJ5s2TUzJCMvK5BxEZDsK-k5lPuRGd3oWWg2u4JlMv2CToA_xGd9uDl-oRWmBDKBmokG-FEJ/s4032/PXL_20240322_190956657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2OCKSSzmlOTvhWxsnM4sNOCmSdkE4gWj0h06ZYV2cgrWEcdJDMiQC_yFAE5ckDv6d5ijk7Fqljqy3QOYwbEmJKXjS3VWZOU78-EodOaocBW5UsSslkYAcJ5s2TUzJCMvK5BxEZDsK-k5lPuRGd3oWWg2u4JlMv2CToA_xGd9uDl-oRWmBDKBmokG-FEJ/w240-h320/PXL_20240322_190956657.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Tired After the O Trek I was tempted to take a 2 hour bus ride back to Puerto Natalas. But... the skies were clear and calm and I only had one more chance to camp out before I flew home. The road was a steep 1,000 foot climb but the scenery kept me going. I'm willing to put up with quite a bit of discomfort for good views. The passing car drivers cheered me on as I pedaled upwards, stopping every 10 minutes for another picture. <p></p><p>In an area known for a high number of Pumas, I kept my eyes scanning the hillsides as I biked along. Then, there! A mob of people wearing zip off pants and cars lining the roadside. Binoculars and spotting scopes out, fingers pointing into the distance, and yes! In the far, far, far distance, barely visible to the naked eye was a majestic, powerful looking brown dot on the horizon. I borrowed some binoculars and there she was, a female puma laying down watching her three cubs chew on the guanaco she had killed a couple days earlier. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf57eYdw3lR89NwwaD_DP9564euxLp7n-RxQvyR24E2w3BbR8SwPdRI-6MNnYnUo2cLOfz38aB6DvyZIpGkWDUeJ2zXw8TQK_Mre58OFt3t_qrMNEa1tq5wNX8o5ojgFK8O-GOVYhvTPA6QC8qjLhtcHL8KO0r2pdmgXeAIucBfEPnjk_QGpJO1FdgTm74/s4032/PXL_20240322_205707483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf57eYdw3lR89NwwaD_DP9564euxLp7n-RxQvyR24E2w3BbR8SwPdRI-6MNnYnUo2cLOfz38aB6DvyZIpGkWDUeJ2zXw8TQK_Mre58OFt3t_qrMNEa1tq5wNX8o5ojgFK8O-GOVYhvTPA6QC8qjLhtcHL8KO0r2pdmgXeAIucBfEPnjk_QGpJO1FdgTm74/w640-h480/PXL_20240322_205707483.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>The views of the mountains I had just circumnavigated were stunning, better than on the hike. Tired legs forgotten, I dawdled along, stopping at every waterfall and overlook to eat a few potato chips and procrastinate leaving the park. 35 miles later I found the perfect campsite and settled in for the night. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXhjzLYg2FfKxd-nQUNFC0wPGCQ1NtJ7HT5wg8fsUoA6smCZkLZQECLy3F_SQI9-lJNnpcFHjy0DQGoc09Whsf5gi3c9a8qYhUjDf6u5_q1DH_9C5UzZHOpjLvr_FSr5qKczm_b68VZpCprtoyUFIOUl00epj-AjX1YTrQKGbedLKlgCEI-sYkKL-_mffy/s4032/PXL_20240322_214052813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXhjzLYg2FfKxd-nQUNFC0wPGCQ1NtJ7HT5wg8fsUoA6smCZkLZQECLy3F_SQI9-lJNnpcFHjy0DQGoc09Whsf5gi3c9a8qYhUjDf6u5_q1DH_9C5UzZHOpjLvr_FSr5qKczm_b68VZpCprtoyUFIOUl00epj-AjX1YTrQKGbedLKlgCEI-sYkKL-_mffy/w640-h480/PXL_20240322_214052813.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />The next morning I brewed some tea and watched the sunrise over Torres del Paine so thankful that I had decided to ride back to the town instead of take the bus. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrB7NbS0Yy1QOfGuNrDDNrdcuLB5CUYyI60eeiEsfrEu7hyphenhyphenstSOBbY-Nf4rdfB5EaNdrnEZdGmSedDlva878Un7vAnKwkAZs_ZO4AquQAKo_fj08f9B4Y7qxUWYqG_i9L8-DQP81AA8C4i84OFayk3Tfux1purbFUeK7S0O4f7S5tQWWS-zd00aoLnS2i/s4032/PXL_20240323_105625804~2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrB7NbS0Yy1QOfGuNrDDNrdcuLB5CUYyI60eeiEsfrEu7hyphenhyphenstSOBbY-Nf4rdfB5EaNdrnEZdGmSedDlva878Un7vAnKwkAZs_ZO4AquQAKo_fj08f9B4Y7qxUWYqG_i9L8-DQP81AA8C4i84OFayk3Tfux1purbFUeK7S0O4f7S5tQWWS-zd00aoLnS2i/w640-h480/PXL_20240323_105625804~2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWgflDhySMINzCAvZ01sAwpSXh1d9e_utxkbp3W4FRbSgU7abB_G-dp1PdJYdqiWI56dfb_07aMx4KsO-ZW6XXn_0Ir4tl0StSOLKvjlMOlbj6ZFXTL7MCliV4zcH0opJ0pduUSAM7zCypJOtv2NBA_Tny_sq4DafutRu1DnRS5fhztpfDR1H1nSUb-OUY/s4032/PXL_20240323_105844730~2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWgflDhySMINzCAvZ01sAwpSXh1d9e_utxkbp3W4FRbSgU7abB_G-dp1PdJYdqiWI56dfb_07aMx4KsO-ZW6XXn_0Ir4tl0StSOLKvjlMOlbj6ZFXTL7MCliV4zcH0opJ0pduUSAM7zCypJOtv2NBA_Tny_sq4DafutRu1DnRS5fhztpfDR1H1nSUb-OUY/w640-h480/PXL_20240323_105844730~2.jpg" width="640" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWgflDhySMINzCAvZ01sAwpSXh1d9e_utxkbp3W4FRbSgU7abB_G-dp1PdJYdqiWI56dfb_07aMx4KsO-ZW6XXn_0Ir4tl0StSOLKvjlMOlbj6ZFXTL7MCliV4zcH0opJ0pduUSAM7zCypJOtv2NBA_Tny_sq4DafutRu1DnRS5fhztpfDR1H1nSUb-OUY/s4032/PXL_20240323_105844730~2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div></div><br />55 more long and beautiful miles to later I rolled into Puerto Natales with bags full of dirty clothes and damp camping gear. Back in the hostel I apologized in advance to my roommates and aired and dried everything out around the room. <div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEictKN40PDCbkErctw5j0SiPAAXsBJBaK3bPqoCyVFwBTxvZ-VAykSTLgdeSRSCMQkEcInbRWexZlhdJONtqrpyKsib7DYDW0ZfsspWD7RnLDXkcTQ0lcQAypAHmnNAdQ_a0MYrjRbh9DULm1sQrp4js0jGzscSOqwJcrCE2e_s5Klk4iUSNaIvnGcyjmJD/s4032/PXL_20240323_155414298~2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEictKN40PDCbkErctw5j0SiPAAXsBJBaK3bPqoCyVFwBTxvZ-VAykSTLgdeSRSCMQkEcInbRWexZlhdJONtqrpyKsib7DYDW0ZfsspWD7RnLDXkcTQ0lcQAypAHmnNAdQ_a0MYrjRbh9DULm1sQrp4js0jGzscSOqwJcrCE2e_s5Klk4iUSNaIvnGcyjmJD/s320/PXL_20240323_155414298~2.jpg" width="240" /></a>I washed a set of clothes to wear on the plane for the next morning, but since it's Patagonia things didn't completely dry. I didn't do the best job so I was not only was I the slightly stinky one on the plane, but I was damp for the first part of the journey home. </div><div>Long flights and long layovers gave me plenty of time to think back on what an amazing place I had just traveled through. It was wet, cold, sometimes super windy, sometimes snowing, and so, so good. The easy trips are never as satisfying as the ones that challenge you and the lows make the high points feel as though you are the luckiest person alive. I would go again, I would stay longer, I would turn around and repeat it all if I could. <br /><br /><p><br /></p><br /><p><br /></p></div>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-42259692705815242572024-03-24T10:19:00.000-07:002024-03-24T10:19:09.730-07:00O My The O Trek!<p> 22 March- The O Circuit of Torres del Paine</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLnXV1SCCNUnkX_W9qgCmygsP_5X-F3iJeXbLQta2tY8jNYYsWnvObPDFGAx2Sai1MLK8Teo4G4lL1SpooBJHgBfDnYzIvmfQi0LUOXUa0eRqtbGZVOobUE-m_QDVFAbU0dW5jCFZdyViSi93SA2DaPxlXSpfMXRYefjSpPeDbUGQkepves43_jOLxfby1/s4032/PXL_20240319_124914732.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLnXV1SCCNUnkX_W9qgCmygsP_5X-F3iJeXbLQta2tY8jNYYsWnvObPDFGAx2Sai1MLK8Teo4G4lL1SpooBJHgBfDnYzIvmfQi0LUOXUa0eRqtbGZVOobUE-m_QDVFAbU0dW5jCFZdyViSi93SA2DaPxlXSpfMXRYefjSpPeDbUGQkepves43_jOLxfby1/w640-h480/PXL_20240319_124914732.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXO7SIhuAm_8z_i_oJ41tcw4JvUFDKGTzG95bzpFeHl5_0Jl2UWQup_uOaOggNYpWLpoJdl6V3zGuCcv_pENXXirOfYL-tlw_Ew7MU6pKHAeMjsVrVBAwfyfTZd3DasUYzo0xvAxWL_4Xku8tybVqfCVy4bDGnbERqiDF8_NlJAZPKE9p78gJhXlaoDZ0x/s4032/PXL_20240319_172551327.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXO7SIhuAm_8z_i_oJ41tcw4JvUFDKGTzG95bzpFeHl5_0Jl2UWQup_uOaOggNYpWLpoJdl6V3zGuCcv_pENXXirOfYL-tlw_Ew7MU6pKHAeMjsVrVBAwfyfTZd3DasUYzo0xvAxWL_4Xku8tybVqfCVy4bDGnbERqiDF8_NlJAZPKE9p78gJhXlaoDZ0x/s320/PXL_20240319_172551327.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />Day 1- 20.5 miles: camp is tightly packed cluster of tents where you can hear your neighbors talking, snoring, farting, breathing. Thank goodness I never do any of those things. It does make it easy to wake up early once you hear all the zippers zipping and the air mattresses deflating. The day was supposed to be drizzly and grey, but the trail was fast and easy. Passing lakes and small herds of horses, I made it to Dickson camp in the afternoon giving me a chance to really see what kind of food I hastily bought. With 2 pound cakes and a handful of empanadas, I think I'll make it. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRV_Bl99XbEFU7bWrXJxIVG9O1DOA4EeKv7tcuBaCfeWe6u5rtaV0XF0jOaeAwsi7zCXUvCC6D78N3n7tenAtRSisGYkt6uoZcUjIOPTSYT0K7XZs_VXFljm40MY6tH3NuoBULvl0cGF9VzWCJodG13yaevrTBlfazFq4dFAgd8aJyxXIRN0BCkxURhzM_/s4032/PXL_20240320_113446624.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRV_Bl99XbEFU7bWrXJxIVG9O1DOA4EeKv7tcuBaCfeWe6u5rtaV0XF0jOaeAwsi7zCXUvCC6D78N3n7tenAtRSisGYkt6uoZcUjIOPTSYT0K7XZs_VXFljm40MY6tH3NuoBULvl0cGF9VzWCJodG13yaevrTBlfazFq4dFAgd8aJyxXIRN0BCkxURhzM_/w640-h480/PXL_20240320_113446624.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhks4YyNy9tO1oCQ7eCeeYHo59RKfnLrh8PEJ6FYwGtI20JIuKjpNaqLZhpGFNvdzpmP_hDGPoM5W9dstKXy_VVtzBV4kuHrPSUOK5USiExpd4mwgBvCOd1n2QKkghPn0qilZZx1qlUkKVv9j5Af1_sEawAYQPFzLUyylXuozo7-RRMjaFk4HHfQeZcpRZ/s4032/PXL_20240320_150505503.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhks4YyNy9tO1oCQ7eCeeYHo59RKfnLrh8PEJ6FYwGtI20JIuKjpNaqLZhpGFNvdzpmP_hDGPoM5W9dstKXy_VVtzBV4kuHrPSUOK5USiExpd4mwgBvCOd1n2QKkghPn0qilZZx1qlUkKVv9j5Af1_sEawAYQPFzLUyylXuozo7-RRMjaFk4HHfQeZcpRZ/s320/PXL_20240320_150505503.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />Day 2 - 5.4 miles: Crystal clear morning and a tent covered in I've. The mountains are stunning and I'm surrounded by snowy peaks. A mandatory short day today gave me a lazy morning with extra cups of tea. The hike climbed up to a glacier moraine overlooking the lake I camped by last night.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QA5JXx0Hz87WAAoROtzNv1GDIIQPn-5bCcR3JxC2pux-bFalqv5uLxUwkbO0P5ilC0CWFDFG567A8CzaB3XpLwnqxJJFK-8n2VA6ZjEq8kSSsLOZXb_P-WtjMZiAiDP1R_pkv10f0vrGD_hwXtpwRkjXHkuVRRX1HLOiYaRsY6hJGRSrtYEmQM68QbKO/s4032/PXL_20240320_121339120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QA5JXx0Hz87WAAoROtzNv1GDIIQPn-5bCcR3JxC2pux-bFalqv5uLxUwkbO0P5ilC0CWFDFG567A8CzaB3XpLwnqxJJFK-8n2VA6ZjEq8kSSsLOZXb_P-WtjMZiAiDP1R_pkv10f0vrGD_hwXtpwRkjXHkuVRRX1HLOiYaRsY6hJGRSrtYEmQM68QbKO/w640-h480/PXL_20240320_121339120.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Ahead was the high point in the trail, the pass was supposedly thigh deep, but that was tomorrow's adventure. Today was for gawking at more glaciers.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjUTf0RgmiTkSwprbFszh84t93y5p5jywiR7RHtBWk1RDbj3Ds1oUH_t-UKxSsihcOSJ1xeQNx3bThLfAQyETAioX8C87sNPXdBNpBad6b06qA8Bqg3mSTnC5-WO6GhDm7SsoUsLolrWXKKPthV3f0Wkh_WdYOXJf6-_tCXR__ZxbUo0IBtsny6qgGI57/s4032/PXL_20240320_150707771.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjUTf0RgmiTkSwprbFszh84t93y5p5jywiR7RHtBWk1RDbj3Ds1oUH_t-UKxSsihcOSJ1xeQNx3bThLfAQyETAioX8C87sNPXdBNpBad6b06qA8Bqg3mSTnC5-WO6GhDm7SsoUsLolrWXKKPthV3f0Wkh_WdYOXJf6-_tCXR__ZxbUo0IBtsny6qgGI57/w640-h480/PXL_20240320_150707771.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Day 3 - 20.5 miles: Everyone was up before dawn for a mandatory 7am start. It wasn't my plan, but I was the first one out on the trail. The pass was rocky, wet, snowy, and above treeline, the wind picked up considerably. Every now and then I would posthole up to my knee in a snow drift, but mainly I walked on rocks. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ5W-BOk4nVR1v9JDnDbkvSD68nP6LgRLIH3XcH0ywLmhyEVV6-z6A9-L3udFCG24JVHIqo4EKpg7LerInhSC3FKoaTLf93mzUTfDjAjaZHiCwLFsnZiVPkPY9MOMBm0a1CbogQhfHHA3lizaurlpMuUTKcBMg7VYYBbVgl3KBttyxl__y8bmSrKo7GTPo/s3280/PXL_20240321_110314871.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2464" data-original-width="3280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ5W-BOk4nVR1v9JDnDbkvSD68nP6LgRLIH3XcH0ywLmhyEVV6-z6A9-L3udFCG24JVHIqo4EKpg7LerInhSC3FKoaTLf93mzUTfDjAjaZHiCwLFsnZiVPkPY9MOMBm0a1CbogQhfHHA3lizaurlpMuUTKcBMg7VYYBbVgl3KBttyxl__y8bmSrKo7GTPo/w640-h480/PXL_20240321_110314871.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD0MEk1biEquMe2vfyxoG8EEnkBODL7GWRucxk-ek7ayr7YRazryPbmNOmW8spuZKTB16Ei5RQLMT39DZlI7LsCLH-0jUCOE3Obxfh5Xkd7_YzGNhRdUexWcEypOVED3dIIWu-F7x-ignhuQIFae3TNPVhLdV0BnQ2TtDHLYyyof3PRSoXWmSwjt1Y-leM/s4032/PXL_20240321_124034672.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD0MEk1biEquMe2vfyxoG8EEnkBODL7GWRucxk-ek7ayr7YRazryPbmNOmW8spuZKTB16Ei5RQLMT39DZlI7LsCLH-0jUCOE3Obxfh5Xkd7_YzGNhRdUexWcEypOVED3dIIWu-F7x-ignhuQIFae3TNPVhLdV0BnQ2TtDHLYyyof3PRSoXWmSwjt1Y-leM/w640-h480/PXL_20240321_124034672.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Kicking steps and trudging upwards into the driving snow/rain, the pass went quickly and on the other side, the massive Grey Glacier stretched as far as I could see. </div></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN_L9j0nB7hYFBM1R1MVYXT0bZ-Vu_JLNrHeMP0pRrgQDXp-Xitv1uwZDfAD73vjwg29a27dcnZay_KP-9hNjhiKt0d8HUZZnF6FcMkqg-rm8LuTKSPtp_vJhevmdKHi1JsRwg1wcDS9JNQrlp4FBCt3y-67bZPqyBKcC7N7quHfNZenkxx_pQgbLOOK54/s3280/PXL_20240321_132542875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3280" data-original-width="2464" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN_L9j0nB7hYFBM1R1MVYXT0bZ-Vu_JLNrHeMP0pRrgQDXp-Xitv1uwZDfAD73vjwg29a27dcnZay_KP-9hNjhiKt0d8HUZZnF6FcMkqg-rm8LuTKSPtp_vJhevmdKHi1JsRwg1wcDS9JNQrlp4FBCt3y-67bZPqyBKcC7N7quHfNZenkxx_pQgbLOOK54/s320/PXL_20240321_132542875.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Quickly down to warmer and drier climates, this was my favorite section of the whole trail. Walking along the side of the glacier the trail climbed and dropped and best of all, crossed 3 giant, swinging suspension bridges. For hours I had the whole trail to myself.<br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBcXksfJ-FX80Odoxpqd5M_X-kv2IGvqP_4ZwkGq5SphXgCimhcVRaNYKp0wHC5uwmzkX6BMA8wUDQsrUr7cUrXktU41MjoP3pE08mq0NtqkWG42Wv15h8NBNhxU2_WPBv6L6KyFtafxf7lg_nhJgI2X6m9FFa8FL_YILpMpLVIeUaQwLiW8zZ7l9LCoud/s4032/PXL_20240321_140113152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBcXksfJ-FX80Odoxpqd5M_X-kv2IGvqP_4ZwkGq5SphXgCimhcVRaNYKp0wHC5uwmzkX6BMA8wUDQsrUr7cUrXktU41MjoP3pE08mq0NtqkWG42Wv15h8NBNhxU2_WPBv6L6KyFtafxf7lg_nhJgI2X6m9FFa8FL_YILpMpLVIeUaQwLiW8zZ7l9LCoud/w640-h480/PXL_20240321_140113152.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO7dxwDwD1TYFMeGtaxs32wgWfk-PIPUdkFED01hKrL8T4HAG8UmPYS_FnMYNxI6aNVHlefWMjPU8uYadp3IBCjvrifInpXA9JUdY9T5OgVSDYp9h9ccKGIu2iqZPskXzCvsDvpIfZarlqihHl8xMVPCvZ165XrBP_2Nym9fa6ADSiBnjRiQLGLbUEEy5u/s4032/PXL_20240321_133028501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO7dxwDwD1TYFMeGtaxs32wgWfk-PIPUdkFED01hKrL8T4HAG8UmPYS_FnMYNxI6aNVHlefWMjPU8uYadp3IBCjvrifInpXA9JUdY9T5OgVSDYp9h9ccKGIu2iqZPskXzCvsDvpIfZarlqihHl8xMVPCvZ165XrBP_2Nym9fa6ADSiBnjRiQLGLbUEEy5u/s320/PXL_20240321_133028501.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>I knew I was getting closer to Grey camp when a few people passed smelling like perfume and fresh laundry. On this hike you can shower every night and drink a beer. I did one of those things. </div><div>The day kept getting nicer and almost warm. I felt like every mile took me through a completely different landscape. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjBPFg-yNzYJE1vvpum1Vo_94EcRfLpBql7DXZR4jGqdpNUVmeRvSKyS5-5FDieyS_Wy5sJB5jEdD6goxzTx8Y0pziLXEVHP2ZdLzX85EXYyDqM3k7T9YdIsp3EDL2hzzWLFuIF7fT__zcn8gjyo-S8QSLhlh-va_DgoA3jQ8jKMt_922zt6BqgCIeDjbD/s4032/PXL_20240321_163304462~2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjBPFg-yNzYJE1vvpum1Vo_94EcRfLpBql7DXZR4jGqdpNUVmeRvSKyS5-5FDieyS_Wy5sJB5jEdD6goxzTx8Y0pziLXEVHP2ZdLzX85EXYyDqM3k7T9YdIsp3EDL2hzzWLFuIF7fT__zcn8gjyo-S8QSLhlh-va_DgoA3jQ8jKMt_922zt6BqgCIeDjbD/s320/PXL_20240321_163304462~2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>I stumbled into the Paine Grande camp, set in a grassy field next to a lake and kicked my feet up while I watched the light play across the towering peaks. <div>Opting for a hot shower, a stranger left me her towel to use. I had been using my scarf as a towel so far on this trip, who knew that a slightly damp used towel would feel like such a luxury. With dry shoes and fresh socks, I felt ready for one more long day.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXFsdU2trZJ-r2wOrEGbJ5G59HMXX0-lV5PrEyL3v419tWvAyrNqtOv7fvRXIU1gnsYMOSzyYsIpaVynAdoVyx9iaUr5UcX61JDbqne-7J_sEwwxHlJD-tsFDhuztkzngtG_nKXC0B9bZNbh0OjiXBYJVTS0v-ghWihQP5X_bYNm7nDWt8inN16Pcge0YJ/s3280/PXL_20240321_203227778.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2464" data-original-width="3280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXFsdU2trZJ-r2wOrEGbJ5G59HMXX0-lV5PrEyL3v419tWvAyrNqtOv7fvRXIU1gnsYMOSzyYsIpaVynAdoVyx9iaUr5UcX61JDbqne-7J_sEwwxHlJD-tsFDhuztkzngtG_nKXC0B9bZNbh0OjiXBYJVTS0v-ghWihQP5X_bYNm7nDWt8inN16Pcge0YJ/w640-h480/PXL_20240321_203227778.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFhQy62qJjbtrG86G70E5f7NwDlaq9svH7LDau0GqKg6FvRKbvNe3aCJm5LM4O-PhSedl0GhW_wxBOQ0M3YCFXQWq4Hnt_FsK3VUUYUicdAcbSIKLq8CFPyH0RVGYu_pRAl1XT5jvAqJTIk6ypSdN7t7kiqzsM8wD5jCleqgXL0YSf5CAWpJPhanysIhYM/s4032/PXL_20240321_184313843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFhQy62qJjbtrG86G70E5f7NwDlaq9svH7LDau0GqKg6FvRKbvNe3aCJm5LM4O-PhSedl0GhW_wxBOQ0M3YCFXQWq4Hnt_FsK3VUUYUicdAcbSIKLq8CFPyH0RVGYu_pRAl1XT5jvAqJTIk6ypSdN7t7kiqzsM8wD5jCleqgXL0YSf5CAWpJPhanysIhYM/w640-h480/PXL_20240321_184313843.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Day 4 - 20 miles:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6dDyNFf9p1xnTVfHkCG9sPnOse0yoLIc-gK_F0GAQV2_CcG2BvjQmkNvJ0c2LKqpK8NIRoZbj4huKMdoEnMmRhQKk4fMl9I7As1L7QT8V3XVnzDUNNbloyr0cApJ5LczCvuf9FZSMfB6Gg3uTzb7MOTxte7owzgZswGKQIP9MjQOA00TeCRzkMTpbjXUx/s4032/PXL_20240322_134345696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6dDyNFf9p1xnTVfHkCG9sPnOse0yoLIc-gK_F0GAQV2_CcG2BvjQmkNvJ0c2LKqpK8NIRoZbj4huKMdoEnMmRhQKk4fMl9I7As1L7QT8V3XVnzDUNNbloyr0cApJ5LczCvuf9FZSMfB6Gg3uTzb7MOTxte7owzgZswGKQIP9MjQOA00TeCRzkMTpbjXUx/s320/PXL_20240322_134345696.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Hanging glaciers and two toned rocks dominated this section. The trail was packed with people since I had joined the shorter more popular W Trek. Repeatedly I asked if I could pass hikers on the narrow trail and ate my last pound cake. The day was as beautiful and calm as it could be. I felt almost naked as I stripped down to my long sleeved shirt. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntgDbf5qT0Gq4YKIkacI7ryfJ1AwZvsbK1CACQuQzjRBiFqLHzoIakzcbuyZww1-w82bTYqU1vT0o4AZKTv7vhVCj-Tj0Wmj5Q8Us1GBaCsG0FdsoXOUBUrB7oV-kyNiUzwNAbEsn-DVjmN11buEFhW3WOxaepH5xdRedyCCed36yc9wM673eYSIyXUMd/s4032/PXL_20240322_121157825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntgDbf5qT0Gq4YKIkacI7ryfJ1AwZvsbK1CACQuQzjRBiFqLHzoIakzcbuyZww1-w82bTYqU1vT0o4AZKTv7vhVCj-Tj0Wmj5Q8Us1GBaCsG0FdsoXOUBUrB7oV-kyNiUzwNAbEsn-DVjmN11buEFhW3WOxaepH5xdRedyCCed36yc9wM673eYSIyXUMd/w640-h480/PXL_20240322_121157825.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Then finally, back to my starting point. I gave myself a pat on the back as I repacked my bike and stopped at the cafeteria to celebrate with a brownie and a bag of potato chips. </div><div>I had the option to take the bus back to Puerto Natales, but the day was so beautiful I decided to bike the 35 miles out of the park and camp one last night. The body kept cooperating so off I pedaled.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0dDy5oX5x2ZbVb6PfC4NgS5Ju5DJaWwXqfVbFwdx26Mr5zYbd20MwvMVMbZid7P25pXPlCDxf3r6DfFcBHYSEvnfVgnMbX3r5peXfM7SKr5fVkt2stNBYV-LVAH4SGbCq8O__0SFZ6F5FRIaciWpO98v9hIvIOx3N4oVuAP0hjQa8LSn4WYM0S66RS4BZ/s3280/PXL_20240322_181700956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2464" data-original-width="3280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0dDy5oX5x2ZbVb6PfC4NgS5Ju5DJaWwXqfVbFwdx26Mr5zYbd20MwvMVMbZid7P25pXPlCDxf3r6DfFcBHYSEvnfVgnMbX3r5peXfM7SKr5fVkt2stNBYV-LVAH4SGbCq8O__0SFZ6F5FRIaciWpO98v9hIvIOx3N4oVuAP0hjQa8LSn4WYM0S66RS4BZ/w640-h480/PXL_20240322_181700956.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div><br /><div><br /><div><br /></div></div></div></div>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-29717252014621164362024-03-23T17:13:00.000-07:002024-03-23T17:13:08.143-07:00A headwind, a heater, and a hitchhike<p> 18 March</p><p>I left El Calafate with a rippin' tail wind. The landscape changed dramatically from mountains and glaciers to dry, open plains dotted with guanacos.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmKe9fu49O3c7mcH3fW1K2BmFEpR5gz37TZpDGEKLRWMaqW-wb4pTWjFFifDT6IA3D0aw1TsTBpuqRC80KOiRxZfnKNMwqa-wYh__lyB4FES-Jfshc-Bkq8b-SHwVtCat-Y3pJsXYCO5PM8et98qJhO3YXvAdXPWxpNOunnMRWNU3W2cX7QReea5GOFOmt/s4032/PXL_20240316_142557840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmKe9fu49O3c7mcH3fW1K2BmFEpR5gz37TZpDGEKLRWMaqW-wb4pTWjFFifDT6IA3D0aw1TsTBpuqRC80KOiRxZfnKNMwqa-wYh__lyB4FES-Jfshc-Bkq8b-SHwVtCat-Y3pJsXYCO5PM8et98qJhO3YXvAdXPWxpNOunnMRWNU3W2cX7QReea5GOFOmt/w640-h480/PXL_20240316_142557840.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlgCbSf7mnUnyefC4uxowe0qC7WmoqPdBEtAF1EWV45mtKdct2JaHq8hwFecm3qnD2-UDgMcwriPEYlAXxtGYchpQH2B01gTnX0z3sINGhF7e2ABETajl0jCwMuybWMqNFld1A8mW28XUQybGB_oGHjcUfOsiMp4RBhnsyryzMF1pCZknt5cbmkJPAfg96/s4032/PXL_20240316_154855486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlgCbSf7mnUnyefC4uxowe0qC7WmoqPdBEtAF1EWV45mtKdct2JaHq8hwFecm3qnD2-UDgMcwriPEYlAXxtGYchpQH2B01gTnX0z3sINGhF7e2ABETajl0jCwMuybWMqNFld1A8mW28XUQybGB_oGHjcUfOsiMp4RBhnsyryzMF1pCZknt5cbmkJPAfg96/w640-h480/PXL_20240316_154855486.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp7EMvcq3mHOTgejVX8F9lxj-PiRDtmaJl8FJDzWOUyjMISF_uk4h_eNw52gOmuLieWGmm2Fi8JFMdwYr61BGT5RY_fu4Q3DeEh_kmkOdQLh_H5YdheVmEj8dkX-P_OMpARcQokd_SLSndB57vHm4_epmAoteAkPBFmjAU1IGY3iCSbvJgj3yNtaqKRYvU/s4032/PXL_20240316_175629849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp7EMvcq3mHOTgejVX8F9lxj-PiRDtmaJl8FJDzWOUyjMISF_uk4h_eNw52gOmuLieWGmm2Fi8JFMdwYr61BGT5RY_fu4Q3DeEh_kmkOdQLh_H5YdheVmEj8dkX-P_OMpARcQokd_SLSndB57vHm4_epmAoteAkPBFmjAU1IGY3iCSbvJgj3yNtaqKRYvU/s320/PXL_20240316_175629849.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />My easy riding came to an abrupt halt when I had to turn right. Suddenly, slammed with 35 mph head and crosswinds, my forward progress slowed to a drunkard's weave as the wind pushed me across the road and I heaved my way back. With the sun getting low and a large ditch providing a welcome windbreak, I called it a day. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo9D48ad9ZCWYFF4rO7siJqRsHYh-thjbeC4vYIjN8l5TElySNvwwp6tJmpOSb4Cuq8IvDTVV2d-W7_G5MxVEfIwcKRtGqUvykNn5fPYZoqNpPQN3N9ZPgjkr8wl8qpLRut-B-Kkfq7FhuKGcv2_kogXRm-1-u4on0xvd1nTKcEcUWdNhvPNWDQvGbDUSI/s4032/PXL_20240316_203153685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo9D48ad9ZCWYFF4rO7siJqRsHYh-thjbeC4vYIjN8l5TElySNvwwp6tJmpOSb4Cuq8IvDTVV2d-W7_G5MxVEfIwcKRtGqUvykNn5fPYZoqNpPQN3N9ZPgjkr8wl8qpLRut-B-Kkfq7FhuKGcv2_kogXRm-1-u4on0xvd1nTKcEcUWdNhvPNWDQvGbDUSI/w640-h480/PXL_20240316_203153685.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgam_jpDbMbfwFJhij7Ma9KgCtmpwWDt9uiPJmotZTg-AkaFCzHrr26cxy3sxj_NPgYliGZfWX5vWDK3n6sy6z6MNFyQzjmBLMOOztebj9BDMJbIoQh1f_YycnkmHVW06e1jWZb-SN27C_7Ncce4azwmju562w4Y1GVEeyRHHf93ls4x7ef3Al60VtaXQW-/s4032/PXL_20240317_112116187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgam_jpDbMbfwFJhij7Ma9KgCtmpwWDt9uiPJmotZTg-AkaFCzHrr26cxy3sxj_NPgYliGZfWX5vWDK3n6sy6z6MNFyQzjmBLMOOztebj9BDMJbIoQh1f_YycnkmHVW06e1jWZb-SN27C_7Ncce4azwmju562w4Y1GVEeyRHHf93ls4x7ef3Al60VtaXQW-/s320/PXL_20240317_112116187.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />I pitched my tent close to a pool of water surrounded by hoof prints. In the morning I woke up to... Snow! I was really hoping for guanacos. The wind was still howling and I had to be in Torres del Paine, 130 miles away by next day. I scraped the ice off my tent and pushed my bike back up onto the road. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Thankfully the day was sunny and the sky was full of dozens of Chilean Condors riding the heavy winds</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-GyPo0Ruv8BLCZRFgn8YS25S96HOcWP1kw-RZX0kWZFieHK6NIUSY18Wg83_p5OmsEEUGURZbcYeWmNp84AdJuStjES2460pSCHeRuwQ6Mx3JUqKBbn7i6i1TG6Qm89zfX1jzCJ7qW7C3Ed5Bspm7Sjl73BxuwBszCtHMdaLcbA-n1cI_5f2lJuKL1MhC/s4032/PXL_20240317_130722323.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-GyPo0Ruv8BLCZRFgn8YS25S96HOcWP1kw-RZX0kWZFieHK6NIUSY18Wg83_p5OmsEEUGURZbcYeWmNp84AdJuStjES2460pSCHeRuwQ6Mx3JUqKBbn7i6i1TG6Qm89zfX1jzCJ7qW7C3Ed5Bspm7Sjl73BxuwBszCtHMdaLcbA-n1cI_5f2lJuKL1MhC/w640-h480/PXL_20240317_130722323.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The wind was so strong I found it easier to push my bike instead of ride it. Even so, the wind would send my back tire skittering sideways and if have to yank it back upright. After 28 miles in 7 hours, I finally came to the only windbreak, a combination police and road maintenance station. I sat in the dirt eating peanuts until a road crew worker asked if I wanted to come inside. He offered me coffee and a private room in the bunkhouse (it was a converted semi trailer) for $4. It had a heater. Sold. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So many people had been asking me if I had been warm enough at night. Always trying to practice my Spanish, I thought I had been telling them, not to worry, my sleeping bag was very warm, but instead I'd been saying my sleeping bag is very ready for some sexy time. Fortunately the weather has been such that phrase has never been applicable to myself. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7HdcmtzIfMPHWt62pA9x4cX8vnVfPPrijYvmYCU0qXjdY3QdfRyJt8-VmEgvmic5gDdAS1wBnoGrGXJYLMo4xtai3-n7-3J2f3Cr_jIfcXiWP16JAIpYFUwr71OJzXHUHfJdgwZzyW8lzlwIMMcxbEHcIV278dfcwZWoMOqe86TygG2Ew7j59i6Q7O6HD/s4032/PXL_20240317_231422365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7HdcmtzIfMPHWt62pA9x4cX8vnVfPPrijYvmYCU0qXjdY3QdfRyJt8-VmEgvmic5gDdAS1wBnoGrGXJYLMo4xtai3-n7-3J2f3Cr_jIfcXiWP16JAIpYFUwr71OJzXHUHfJdgwZzyW8lzlwIMMcxbEHcIV278dfcwZWoMOqe86TygG2Ew7j59i6Q7O6HD/w640-h480/PXL_20240317_231422365.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next morning was so calm. I left just before sunrise to try and make it across the border and hopefully hitchhike to the park. It was my favorite morning of riding, not a car on the road and the most glorious sunrise all to myself.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZS1dvh19k72Q3rA2hnP4ePS1i8MLynjqj17YAmBgNpOcZjyYrXXbJvaC6_G-9TQ57X62b2TPgLxzyY_JwDNeWmw1XK0BK3-tI0FKvh9Req19A8HPw_hlta0jxtsHSZtZnhxgA05YgbPDmd-j4Vufjiv6WyI61NnzGCzbPs1lDzdhUg_zQaF_sZyzY_-K8/s4032/PXL_20240318_104026680.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZS1dvh19k72Q3rA2hnP4ePS1i8MLynjqj17YAmBgNpOcZjyYrXXbJvaC6_G-9TQ57X62b2TPgLxzyY_JwDNeWmw1XK0BK3-tI0FKvh9Req19A8HPw_hlta0jxtsHSZtZnhxgA05YgbPDmd-j4Vufjiv6WyI61NnzGCzbPs1lDzdhUg_zQaF_sZyzY_-K8/w640-h480/PXL_20240318_104026680.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I pedaled into Cerre Castillo around noon needing 5 days worth of food for my upcoming hike and a 60 mile ride up a dirt road to get me there. Luckily, an empty van pulled up in front of the grocery store. I asked the driver if he could take me and my bike to Torres del Paine and if he could wait 5 minutes for me to buy groceries. He agreed and I frantically ran around the store throwing food into the counter while his passenger was yelling, "Muchatcha! Hurry!! We have to get to work!!!!" Ack! Hopefully it was enough.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1EwmobNyNiMYg077t3PdLho-deaNoowRKBwp1lg9o-GEejWx4DatXgEopzUtTrKWfJzFRnTdbZ8cqKecLT2H4I34zuP9EXEW9tgCF6wDApdsvqSzlyhnsxYZ4OSmLcjJLG4SNOdcO5YX3orcvkmyeeZvJrFk2Gum4ZcwtJST7Mp7A_UBvflJ5XC0Su-cZ/s4032/PXL_20240318_171751007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1EwmobNyNiMYg077t3PdLho-deaNoowRKBwp1lg9o-GEejWx4DatXgEopzUtTrKWfJzFRnTdbZ8cqKecLT2H4I34zuP9EXEW9tgCF6wDApdsvqSzlyhnsxYZ4OSmLcjJLG4SNOdcO5YX3orcvkmyeeZvJrFk2Gum4ZcwtJST7Mp7A_UBvflJ5XC0Su-cZ/s320/PXL_20240318_171751007.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>The workers were driving the company van so they apologized, but couldn't take me all the way to the front gate. Instead they dropped me off 1km before the entrance on the side of the road and told me not to tell. Feeling giddy that I had made it there at all, I pedaled to my campsite to change into backpacker mode. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-22099313778835935522024-03-15T12:15:00.000-07:002024-03-15T12:15:53.728-07:00Crossing borders by boat, singletrack, and grueling hike a bike<p> 15 March</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdk2ZOl69_D2G110RXzP3KRFB0iCDNJa0uygNOlCmIcZIT13oitrKBbEn1ewn42_x0zC5Rnuvi8F_4QeSPS7KYe0YQwEHrqRiO-6P6U5fu_7RT0d2jEnWh2oPO5xl4pYkW15r86g05MkIBItggsMRAP4ycyD4mkcm_FBBzNB-gLqARS5rSGCwzf85uyyX/s4032/PXL_20240311_195852589.MP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdk2ZOl69_D2G110RXzP3KRFB0iCDNJa0uygNOlCmIcZIT13oitrKBbEn1ewn42_x0zC5Rnuvi8F_4QeSPS7KYe0YQwEHrqRiO-6P6U5fu_7RT0d2jEnWh2oPO5xl4pYkW15r86g05MkIBItggsMRAP4ycyD4mkcm_FBBzNB-gLqARS5rSGCwzf85uyyX/w640-h480/PXL_20240311_195852589.MP.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>After waiting 2 days for the next boat to leave Villa O'Higgins, all the hikers and bikers were anxious to get moving; what better time to head off into the unknown than 6pm.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxf-gp5piVhcjo9vVbzdHkEfigTvXgk-Vl6uE9CssjQTkulr3a8uMMawK_BOC5cGqjYarkCxnfmQ8tsEQCXJg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p> A wild hour and a half later, we were all dumped on the opposite shore to spend the night until passport control opened the next morning to allow us to leave Chile. Even though I wanted to get moving, the sunrise over the lake was well worth the camp out. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioK_VnmhopUmFvc3ADT5TW7hHPjvCNKTWvodoWws7r1ikbuky1oPCd5F3C3wtzonb9uF2HpNqqylU2bvnYlnzuOJB-pVqh7B80X5iEyv9wbVLQb4RchsXNtCHhnqMseBfcH7H4QNEj9wMs_fy7oL9nDkuc9QFV5vbd4hjVA2kKXmyJqQrWrt6qDhr6aWCt/s4032/PXL_20240312_104332999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioK_VnmhopUmFvc3ADT5TW7hHPjvCNKTWvodoWws7r1ikbuky1oPCd5F3C3wtzonb9uF2HpNqqylU2bvnYlnzuOJB-pVqh7B80X5iEyv9wbVLQb4RchsXNtCHhnqMseBfcH7H4QNEj9wMs_fy7oL9nDkuc9QFV5vbd4hjVA2kKXmyJqQrWrt6qDhr6aWCt/w640-h480/PXL_20240312_104332999.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>A dirt road turned into 5km of super fun single track down to the lake to get my stamp into Argentina. I had the option to wait 5 hours for another boat or attempt the infamously difficult 12 km trail. No debate needed, I took the trail. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbFfmlnLfsuGekK61pHUjkI9EwVEigsmiPzuqEzYSZNcpmg538GKqjFrERYIxutxudFpr_jroTfOn74hj1JFWHDMvaZQ2kL3_-2uznYCU6n9VPtgtXxdROchzbJdqwgvMLVW35yoompsyTmDBkBG82WFmds4IWK1KJryMGhHIMvs3W5IrVNJ-YHynIvG-/s4032/PXL_20240312_151154015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbFfmlnLfsuGekK61pHUjkI9EwVEigsmiPzuqEzYSZNcpmg538GKqjFrERYIxutxudFpr_jroTfOn74hj1JFWHDMvaZQ2kL3_-2uznYCU6n9VPtgtXxdROchzbJdqwgvMLVW35yoompsyTmDBkBG82WFmds4IWK1KJryMGhHIMvs3W5IrVNJ-YHynIvG-/w640-h480/PXL_20240312_151154015.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>5 hours and 2 very tired arms later, I popped out on the other side of the lake to be greeted with 40 kms of dirt road in the pouring rain. Knowing a warm shower was somewhere at the end, I pedaled on. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2Vt6srKygzukdBS9jL9n-JAWz6nkie_XuRUmCCJ-YNccUoVeDAah770_VoSF_GtayI_gmEbujEh_ksJnfe0nWj9xNhYUjirnrtIkc0jnhcafQVYPJNdXG3WeJ31GIN6ylaVb-8ooW7_zT8TS6iV-QUsKdO6y9uNqsy78z1V5l_eGrIKv0wuJ36XfrFo_/s4032/PXL_20240313_124832663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2Vt6srKygzukdBS9jL9n-JAWz6nkie_XuRUmCCJ-YNccUoVeDAah770_VoSF_GtayI_gmEbujEh_ksJnfe0nWj9xNhYUjirnrtIkc0jnhcafQVYPJNdXG3WeJ31GIN6ylaVb-8ooW7_zT8TS6iV-QUsKdO6y9uNqsy78z1V5l_eGrIKv0wuJ36XfrFo_/w640-h480/PXL_20240313_124832663.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />El Chaltén is a funny little mountain town, with some of the most famous climbing peaks in Argentina mere steps away from town. I really wanted to see Cerre Torre and Mt Fitz Roy (the mountain skyline is the Patagonia company's label) but the weather forecast was dismal. I spent 2 days washing out my smelly clothes, drinking coffee, and sampling all the dolce de leches pastries I could find. Finally, after so much rain (0.86 inches!) I had my window. A hostel room full of stinky feet and farting boys was all the motivation I needed to get out the door at 4 am to hopefully catch the sunrise at Cerro Torre. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAFXqnQyXilmETFMoi1NEMBLbBwI5rD6meiEDpQcuaJTjEf8NpDtxgopUPfWILM5xWoVwksUqXmr2sK3C4b4fKhgVnazZXIENGmRM47seJysd5rFt5ddmqrR2vstPKarojz2aoLKBj9n0sLZmgUyt9g11-m4mF0q36A_Wy1X50SeT4vaypAE3fV4ulu0xO/s3280/PXL_20240315_110845925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2464" data-original-width="3280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAFXqnQyXilmETFMoi1NEMBLbBwI5rD6meiEDpQcuaJTjEf8NpDtxgopUPfWILM5xWoVwksUqXmr2sK3C4b4fKhgVnazZXIENGmRM47seJysd5rFt5ddmqrR2vstPKarojz2aoLKBj9n0sLZmgUyt9g11-m4mF0q36A_Wy1X50SeT4vaypAE3fV4ulu0xO/w640-h480/PXL_20240315_110845925.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93azOd-uQNSEKAUesI7NIfv7a_2bI13TEIpEUpQx_4lQXLz5mImayTtovailpA9UiEJR9P9H5QsmLFZ9Raa59cqXuZGnYv43_LZOxDoyxh-UPKL7NMV0qMensThVzpRmacAONiOdodLkv9h0BqxEON37u1D9eKodmYIDejA_sp615yGrJeM_Vs9k3E7oi/s4032/PXL_20240315_111302081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93azOd-uQNSEKAUesI7NIfv7a_2bI13TEIpEUpQx_4lQXLz5mImayTtovailpA9UiEJR9P9H5QsmLFZ9Raa59cqXuZGnYv43_LZOxDoyxh-UPKL7NMV0qMensThVzpRmacAONiOdodLkv9h0BqxEON37u1D9eKodmYIDejA_sp615yGrJeM_Vs9k3E7oi/s320/PXL_20240315_111302081.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p>I hiked too fast and had to huddle against the wind and snow until the sun came up, another hour in, and still no break in the grey. Finally, unable to keep warm, I headed back down the trail and across to Fitz Roy hoping the clouds might not be caught up on those peaks since they were just slightly farther east. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim3sA-D8WCr7zf4V-Vm36iLnx1B6GgMKf4HiD3Zpu6YKDVmOCHgZR8lZgc0jJ0CYoMpmP6tXwQM3hqWXARi8BwzR20MSyVJJS2xNeFB_Crz4uzKm2WiyrL3p1sCVwWGBX0gjbVOcfZ8hzkOgr0MRzkGriWvfr329uaKQ88HFViMkHBu_d0QGN0EbLdFxts/s4032/PXL_20240315_122459626~2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim3sA-D8WCr7zf4V-Vm36iLnx1B6GgMKf4HiD3Zpu6YKDVmOCHgZR8lZgc0jJ0CYoMpmP6tXwQM3hqWXARi8BwzR20MSyVJJS2xNeFB_Crz4uzKm2WiyrL3p1sCVwWGBX0gjbVOcfZ8hzkOgr0MRzkGriWvfr329uaKQ88HFViMkHBu_d0QGN0EbLdFxts/s320/PXL_20240315_122459626~2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>What amazing trails, no wonder El Chaltén calls itself the trekking capital of the nation. Everywhere you look, glaciers, lakes, alpine meadows, and birds. I could have spent another week exploring the area.<br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEganmHJXAPc00IJb6yGmGJDDm49mBlBQNKos7PGOXC9D8KIJGQvN_WeZgK02_UyIfH1MUKRRXLMgYXF-ZoROP36IhluGJAXZzaUOKUC6BiKlu2q6zESxogra1jc209WdcFNxgvT0o3yZfbd1kgQrAlQ3i44atY-ZPNTCdLNzQngBm6dquFmSJcQ5PluNO-h/s4032/PXL_20240315_131214449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEganmHJXAPc00IJb6yGmGJDDm49mBlBQNKos7PGOXC9D8KIJGQvN_WeZgK02_UyIfH1MUKRRXLMgYXF-ZoROP36IhluGJAXZzaUOKUC6BiKlu2q6zESxogra1jc209WdcFNxgvT0o3yZfbd1kgQrAlQ3i44atY-ZPNTCdLNzQngBm6dquFmSJcQ5PluNO-h/w640-h480/PXL_20240315_131214449.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRKiAMPG8u8yEAdUgx20OcoFSQNvQ107N3mS9xHvnlcBofrEHlsgC9Z7RFFmBM-2JupxUuD60i3A_O8ojSNw96QuQJ53v14TL-l_5aArEusowJ4BwHEP7Uu4NdknwrHb5gGLxPuxjqP7qoR1BMZyeBvBBYyJg72vvmPpaaxuslrocf3Z4sBrPGOHPxNw-/s4032/PXL_20240315_150222863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRKiAMPG8u8yEAdUgx20OcoFSQNvQ107N3mS9xHvnlcBofrEHlsgC9Z7RFFmBM-2JupxUuD60i3A_O8ojSNw96QuQJ53v14TL-l_5aArEusowJ4BwHEP7Uu4NdknwrHb5gGLxPuxjqP7qoR1BMZyeBvBBYyJg72vvmPpaaxuslrocf3Z4sBrPGOHPxNw-/w640-h480/PXL_20240315_150222863.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42zibc4MjQHQVUS6kii9pUm9LeK3BCrBbk5TqHyCuVEBd6FGfQT1Lje2ea4OtFY6MQB3ph7YteBbhVRQtQoEidsFiTPL1if3Jbr8Yho2hQp3Cs1yvhbKb_2MEg9FNp-BQKsc-Z5uA9J96A1_7MjqIZzFO-pjf3ghaJFds1FowNrcYfHt502xbDyXEyU9Z/s4032/PXL_20240315_162721966.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42zibc4MjQHQVUS6kii9pUm9LeK3BCrBbk5TqHyCuVEBd6FGfQT1Lje2ea4OtFY6MQB3ph7YteBbhVRQtQoEidsFiTPL1if3Jbr8Yho2hQp3Cs1yvhbKb_2MEg9FNp-BQKsc-Z5uA9J96A1_7MjqIZzFO-pjf3ghaJFds1FowNrcYfHt502xbDyXEyU9Z/w640-h480/PXL_20240315_162721966.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>With the faint outlines of the famous peak barely visible, I counted it as a success. Down the trail I descended into warmer, drier weather and my feet took me directly towards beer and empanadas.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNiLl8iY2hL_OcDvs5dIRT9IkM6GsuqyxZunDbV-co4bHII78KeWa2pdGP4G8oarrIu8szsQ6oPtiFochRgEBWDh-oG0D4BZ1q0jg6Q4gM02pKQzfGuXwd5QJE-AGZ6YX-PmS7keUut1nAXGX9VQr3UCwr_svOg1HwK7vfV-6e0J0scXl04ENBThf9n-jX/s4032/PXL_20240315_170336236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNiLl8iY2hL_OcDvs5dIRT9IkM6GsuqyxZunDbV-co4bHII78KeWa2pdGP4G8oarrIu8szsQ6oPtiFochRgEBWDh-oG0D4BZ1q0jg6Q4gM02pKQzfGuXwd5QJE-AGZ6YX-PmS7keUut1nAXGX9VQr3UCwr_svOg1HwK7vfV-6e0J0scXl04ENBThf9n-jX/w640-h480/PXL_20240315_170336236.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Now I go to Calafate, this time by bus to help me make up a few miles. It should be drier and warmer there, but there are no guarantees with the weather in Patagonia.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9itkPT-0zBUItcFCofuU76rbhBqmQCV2gS9B28plbehXHO5Sil0YuSF24c_3CZKph0wL1BnhX84zCgAy1-k5geQ4sJy15h1Dv47bbI9ojJl8dz7P4E6RQKLa-k98_9gx397dG0PJrSrr1dvIgJ8FHPZc5AVFrwaHrMZ78a3txnRTG9f_3u05dBOLCeFWz/s4032/PXL_20240315_104512741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9itkPT-0zBUItcFCofuU76rbhBqmQCV2gS9B28plbehXHO5Sil0YuSF24c_3CZKph0wL1BnhX84zCgAy1-k5geQ4sJy15h1Dv47bbI9ojJl8dz7P4E6RQKLa-k98_9gx397dG0PJrSrr1dvIgJ8FHPZc5AVFrwaHrMZ78a3txnRTG9f_3u05dBOLCeFWz/w640-h480/PXL_20240315_104512741.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-21688846990250018972024-03-10T15:38:00.000-07:002024-03-10T15:38:54.813-07:00Day Hikes and Cruises <p> 10 March 2024</p><p>With one more day to kill before my ferry to Puerto Yungay, I hopped on a bus that whisked me and hundreds of nylon clad hikers to Torres del Paine. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMsFEwZid8F3Ai2s5KA90_hGHhbwFZMO0lytXFmcccVlL5ABJiQ_9OOSPyn44Eoy0HXYsLRkygv-FpY1DYEjAiWeg3uyGNp4MbSc_UT7E2yArMO6RhfAo_JqK8MkL92aZopuZhkYKAoBQFC5rinbbOJjCDVbNOzCWOlzB573OBaUDDd9ZWth4vpEZOvlb/s4032/PXL_20240305_122458923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMsFEwZid8F3Ai2s5KA90_hGHhbwFZMO0lytXFmcccVlL5ABJiQ_9OOSPyn44Eoy0HXYsLRkygv-FpY1DYEjAiWeg3uyGNp4MbSc_UT7E2yArMO6RhfAo_JqK8MkL92aZopuZhkYKAoBQFC5rinbbOJjCDVbNOzCWOlzB573OBaUDDd9ZWth4vpEZOvlb/w640-h480/PXL_20240305_122458923.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBGiKdU3izb1RZlM3QY_mIkRO3EkHekzJag0Si4-4UrUFacu67LfxTF4fvNtSJ6iypVIwVJUH_FdI075ATB4bElpIWFtpVMnj3ngXOUeFX4MFMrxeoQWbbm_MalvSCTgLorzcHBeDJlAZHpNDtBr272nK1_QxDYNS-gv4x0c0tJbhg3TiZvqJCY3m2mqq8/s4032/PXL_20240305_132657909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBGiKdU3izb1RZlM3QY_mIkRO3EkHekzJag0Si4-4UrUFacu67LfxTF4fvNtSJ6iypVIwVJUH_FdI075ATB4bElpIWFtpVMnj3ngXOUeFX4MFMrxeoQWbbm_MalvSCTgLorzcHBeDJlAZHpNDtBr272nK1_QxDYNS-gv4x0c0tJbhg3TiZvqJCY3m2mqq8/s320/PXL_20240305_132657909.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />With high clouds and clear skies, the park was stunning and I started up the most popular trail to the three towers. Despite having to dodge around tours, their guides cheer and encouraging them onwards and upwards, the trail was beautiful and the lake more stunning than any picture could do justice. I decided to forgo the almost obligatory yoga pose in front of the lake and instead sat on a rock and ate my empanadas. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKZaqTSNdeh4Uu49vw_FK4mXSUccWR12wuISHhQMCnkIZzgc_EF4CCsw3P32BxUqt5Lc-ST2iljfLghQD3V3fykOvFDJ_6XV2Q66Qg7_OjWMcfQR91gb8kZVKG8KSJeKWuqxlaahExWEj_1XUQ43RDuTwbHdbvMT7G_7uxFVcGhrARgzxcYLpDzAhgvbn/s4032/PXL_20240305_145942172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKZaqTSNdeh4Uu49vw_FK4mXSUccWR12wuISHhQMCnkIZzgc_EF4CCsw3P32BxUqt5Lc-ST2iljfLghQD3V3fykOvFDJ_6XV2Q66Qg7_OjWMcfQR91gb8kZVKG8KSJeKWuqxlaahExWEj_1XUQ43RDuTwbHdbvMT7G_7uxFVcGhrARgzxcYLpDzAhgvbn/w640-h480/PXL_20240305_145942172.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmR0PE6Cp-lpCPuoZJ7Ds8w35NL_sCXsqEF4nrnxb73Dq-QhL9hbcD9s0fIvCBCFXdL4Vrn0XKw7hROdI-4FEmLEj20iwn2ITXpNwnHDXmAms-J3rz1d7VVBt0Ur6hkajJQE1Z64ABZfHj5U_zdS3OmKRHjxlHTTaWaF-o3cK16AsDyrGFPjn7YYhBu6RK/s3280/PXL_20240305_191344485.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2464" data-original-width="3280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmR0PE6Cp-lpCPuoZJ7Ds8w35NL_sCXsqEF4nrnxb73Dq-QhL9hbcD9s0fIvCBCFXdL4Vrn0XKw7hROdI-4FEmLEj20iwn2ITXpNwnHDXmAms-J3rz1d7VVBt0Ur6hkajJQE1Z64ABZfHj5U_zdS3OmKRHjxlHTTaWaF-o3cK16AsDyrGFPjn7YYhBu6RK/w640-h480/PXL_20240305_191344485.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Knowing I should get my feet used to miles, I took the long way back along lakes and rivers and felt like I had the place to myself. This was a welcome treat with how popular the park is. Later I found all the people drinking beer at one of the refugios so I felt I had to join my fellow hikers in a pint while I waited for the bus. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL5Xoq9kpoby8EUhxLado411o3C1glaxXOZHLOtqZLcrq_IUmuJeRKe6d3P9bvmAJFHhZhwMUMSJsdgFlOdQXyAVzwZg4qHsF_NPvq_NxW8n-UB3mnUraMlwkWgbuuv8rKAqvF7aUDAfRyzaD4-u5vDJaipnQSBjpjz8sTbhdejLMZBam8SD6rUAnttbHP/s4032/PXL_20240305_230508254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL5Xoq9kpoby8EUhxLado411o3C1glaxXOZHLOtqZLcrq_IUmuJeRKe6d3P9bvmAJFHhZhwMUMSJsdgFlOdQXyAVzwZg4qHsF_NPvq_NxW8n-UB3mnUraMlwkWgbuuv8rKAqvF7aUDAfRyzaD4-u5vDJaipnQSBjpjz8sTbhdejLMZBam8SD6rUAnttbHP/w640-h480/PXL_20240305_230508254.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A quick rainstorm followed by rainbows and the sun bursting out of the clouds, I settled into my bus seat and hoped the weather would be as cooperative when I visited the park again later in my trip.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1eqHwSw-ludxVEPtDlGWxEzhyJtPJ0GI71vpo1qyKa2iAYwfG7U5YuFX4vZb02pLCygcRYpJO4HNPixJS5wwAOqL9KkNBRn0fhOigHS7KmI_XoCHMnkm2XH0UV36WnpGhjUYrRMHfePjD9fVgyMYeUbvyYg4shgHGcYNGhdfuEv2k1MxB2zDU6hKJiV4/s4032/PXL_20240306_135123724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1eqHwSw-ludxVEPtDlGWxEzhyJtPJ0GI71vpo1qyKa2iAYwfG7U5YuFX4vZb02pLCygcRYpJO4HNPixJS5wwAOqL9KkNBRn0fhOigHS7KmI_XoCHMnkm2XH0UV36WnpGhjUYrRMHfePjD9fVgyMYeUbvyYg4shgHGcYNGhdfuEv2k1MxB2zDU6hKJiV4/w640-h480/PXL_20240306_135123724.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next day my ferry didn't board until 8pm so I biked, I sat in the sun, and ended up drinking gin at a distillery, it did not help the seats on the boat feel any more comfortable. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib8py5iFSJBmCv9YUbz_DlF9hOpauEgZOuCUGfQJ78QPCkWQAlm_IIcTIeBOkvN9uJwSEAyH2eFtEpJDZv_Lt4BPps0wHNnQnQy_qlTyA_nTdr1URudTQZPrzeIhabjCL6hVyZwPe4Fxbi-wSSnvEu8oHKMsf1InDHC18Yq1lVl_CCE_wvZeQ4DcxEt7bT/s4032/PXL_20240308_121933405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib8py5iFSJBmCv9YUbz_DlF9hOpauEgZOuCUGfQJ78QPCkWQAlm_IIcTIeBOkvN9uJwSEAyH2eFtEpJDZv_Lt4BPps0wHNnQnQy_qlTyA_nTdr1URudTQZPrzeIhabjCL6hVyZwPe4Fxbi-wSSnvEu8oHKMsf1InDHC18Yq1lVl_CCE_wvZeQ4DcxEt7bT/w640-h480/PXL_20240308_121933405.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />My ferry was 48 hours a long the fjords of western Chile with seats that reclined just farther back than an airplane. The scenery was stunning; orcas, seals, and sea birds galore. It made me forget that I was stuck on a boat with the passenger area slightly wider than a school bus. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzT1z9j7M4nZ6Z4TEuUNIyORvJ-eaFFZKUbJmVqktph99mXFwo0Q6oFNk9dEXn_SNf2GBcN0RNdhV49KPhqKA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">One of the highlights, other than spilling hot tea on my crotch as I was settling in for the night, was when the captain took the ferry 360 degrees ridiculously close around an old shipwreck while blasting the music from the Titanic.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1vmAaFfB81UIdhVURQJetOzpVrn-gbjWmy8PSXRIF42h72WzpYTJcOwArdSyUSLOtwC90yU0utCBVS9Tc8-R2NR997xqpC832_exNzgV4OtXCefT0aq6wiBt69eMQg3EXuxkg4tAl1aHcKAfvYWmNuuKoq64zquf1x1yG8TqYeBkHXW8RmkbuvgnAndwF/s4032/PXL_20240308_164647443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1vmAaFfB81UIdhVURQJetOzpVrn-gbjWmy8PSXRIF42h72WzpYTJcOwArdSyUSLOtwC90yU0utCBVS9Tc8-R2NR997xqpC832_exNzgV4OtXCefT0aq6wiBt69eMQg3EXuxkg4tAl1aHcKAfvYWmNuuKoq64zquf1x1yG8TqYeBkHXW8RmkbuvgnAndwF/w640-h480/PXL_20240308_164647443.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally making it to Rio Bravo at 4am, I decided not to waste a windy, rainy day so I decided to start biking and another couple joined me. Fortunately most of the wind was pushing me forward and I made the 60 miles to Villa O'Higgins in good time. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLEw_O2jdV20HWzgXaVPfsgdI51gTCk1DGH_DWBFBCyFvKD4v8H7oQRq3fawJwO0npKJEAslL8PbDbB9lknMRYYLbx610nTK-n_6kCVlcsNAryQ6li7soGN1cuREvZzce4076OQIzRWoWSqR5mxyzUT7OQuoEokoRPYfAYZ2IIe85OOJoDI2borY2JPC-T/s3280/PXL_20240309_161150209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2464" data-original-width="3280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLEw_O2jdV20HWzgXaVPfsgdI51gTCk1DGH_DWBFBCyFvKD4v8H7oQRq3fawJwO0npKJEAslL8PbDbB9lknMRYYLbx610nTK-n_6kCVlcsNAryQ6li7soGN1cuREvZzce4076OQIzRWoWSqR5mxyzUT7OQuoEokoRPYfAYZ2IIe85OOJoDI2borY2JPC-T/w640-h480/PXL_20240309_161150209.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dykOjluJiCM9WnEfxflDGfvNAute9LIhFxFHZberYHPh85TXI3q0k-hDtRwc1cIXr-_tnIXBWB4iwZSBP-lwQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div style="text-align: left;">The last town on the Caratera Austral is a quirky little place with businesses open a few hours here and there. I found out I needed an exit visa so I went to the police station where a very nice officer told me I needed to apply online. My hotel has no wifi, so with a sigh the officer did it on his phone, then sent me across town to buy a ferry ticket, then back to the gas station so I could check my email using their wifi so I could get my confirmation. It takes a village. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvBBS2tUDfPyQDH8vqJ6kLFxmk1dijlu7VSRVpLLfBKEsaUtTTiT1lWixrE3Dl63Ydsl7SZQdOfDE8lozVNhj7XhyphenhyphenQTHVxj_10TaGnWsw4OmvXf_HoMUrnC8ryDgN5h9qAUztukOv_I_Tq_5zjwpF2KjAOxQMRlxAg8U9O9VypcOzl70aHSeFRxgBV5qaU/s4032/PXL_20240310_154900638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvBBS2tUDfPyQDH8vqJ6kLFxmk1dijlu7VSRVpLLfBKEsaUtTTiT1lWixrE3Dl63Ydsl7SZQdOfDE8lozVNhj7XhyphenhyphenQTHVxj_10TaGnWsw4OmvXf_HoMUrnC8ryDgN5h9qAUztukOv_I_Tq_5zjwpF2KjAOxQMRlxAg8U9O9VypcOzl70aHSeFRxgBV5qaU/w640-h480/PXL_20240310_154900638.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The ferry leaves Mondays and Thursdays... If the weather is ok... which it wasn't. I quickly booked a second room at my hotel and waited for a break in the rain to hike up the the viewpoint above town. In between snowflakes the view was pretty stunning.</div><div style="text-align: left;">After visiting the ferry office 3 times, I was told to come back at 11 tomorrow, hopefully I will be continuing onwards! </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXvxtXlZSlJml8abWcEDmujOWGLXt36cJYH9wwCMR70veSaI0KE1cQInfNrPWPn5hvbGAROICElWy7x-7v3Q4jxz79xY4vaRDlzHWaFH0gTN6Gr-ddhe1fUOUoXgEXhkfEPqiuInHnIRWGuA_J5hKkoxJIDGbMyD8evN95T_5g39g-EuKbtam0zIarnC1H/s4032/PXL_20240310_152713824.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXvxtXlZSlJml8abWcEDmujOWGLXt36cJYH9wwCMR70veSaI0KE1cQInfNrPWPn5hvbGAROICElWy7x-7v3Q4jxz79xY4vaRDlzHWaFH0gTN6Gr-ddhe1fUOUoXgEXhkfEPqiuInHnIRWGuA_J5hKkoxJIDGbMyD8evN95T_5g39g-EuKbtam0zIarnC1H/s320/PXL_20240310_152713824.jpg" width="240" /></a></div></div>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-52553120358717026352024-03-03T13:56:00.000-08:002024-03-03T13:56:39.278-08:00The Farthest South<p> 3 March 2024 </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPD4cYbIUxNpiSlCSztwSHiz0xTR-Nwhp5yWVdReNWuQahVa_dUQbDacRk8HqjOLly8tYiZZW_yCSqfjoNaG2my4hTQ1rZA9OGw-RPExZdUGHirOsZYVzXNiwlGSak5qBC0KPRigstto_kXMGHu-eBeMOREGNy2Gv9VIBcrWaLZ1-uxEDwbUzfXd1QPWkh/s4032/PXL_20240302_191706671.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPD4cYbIUxNpiSlCSztwSHiz0xTR-Nwhp5yWVdReNWuQahVa_dUQbDacRk8HqjOLly8tYiZZW_yCSqfjoNaG2my4hTQ1rZA9OGw-RPExZdUGHirOsZYVzXNiwlGSak5qBC0KPRigstto_kXMGHu-eBeMOREGNy2Gv9VIBcrWaLZ1-uxEDwbUzfXd1QPWkh/w640-h480/PXL_20240302_191706671.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCoRf6h0yDQzibsWVBpcTyATkQR5k-oRbWTH11bCa6B93RGS3hstX_xYf-W85Lgcan_hdv8UwL96m4kQB3BYqIxneA9r2E6r01Zg1ErxUD0ipSv_0e3MlrljThD0MXs-EPe7Cyxox-D6CnSgZKLLpnTY80h5JyT-pETbK-7lvA1a85E4zl69e7QlNgSNil/s4032/PXL_20240302_191301357.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCoRf6h0yDQzibsWVBpcTyATkQR5k-oRbWTH11bCa6B93RGS3hstX_xYf-W85Lgcan_hdv8UwL96m4kQB3BYqIxneA9r2E6r01Zg1ErxUD0ipSv_0e3MlrljThD0MXs-EPe7Cyxox-D6CnSgZKLLpnTY80h5JyT-pETbK-7lvA1a85E4zl69e7QlNgSNil/w640-h480/PXL_20240302_191301357.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjssL5V29Z2tmwjCEXJevB097SxPU5uFNnnXF-Tje7aZUNWnM1xse5o4cKaeo8hcD_PhDEGIe7EjNd7rw1laZDwasTYaAhNzvfrAH96h7FX8OfoUvthyV0ytmiIRW0PGGrSOYA3rQz-dtIQJhio2F377YwVKToFouD05U4sc6-sIJoTZ1AarlIu9bbZwhlw/s4032/PXL_20240302_205404750.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjssL5V29Z2tmwjCEXJevB097SxPU5uFNnnXF-Tje7aZUNWnM1xse5o4cKaeo8hcD_PhDEGIe7EjNd7rw1laZDwasTYaAhNzvfrAH96h7FX8OfoUvthyV0ytmiIRW0PGGrSOYA3rQz-dtIQJhio2F377YwVKToFouD05U4sc6-sIJoTZ1AarlIu9bbZwhlw/s320/PXL_20240302_205404750.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />I have stepped into a world of zip-off hiking pants and wind. Puerto Natales, on the southern tip of Chile, is a wind blasted little town that shuttles people to one of the most popular hikes in the world. Perched on the edge of a white capped bay, the town feels both modern and worn at the same time. The harbor is full of fishing boats, ferries, barges, and tankers. The industrial port is a stark contrast to the shops full of tour companies and gear shops. <p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO0zEW1EZkHU3ppogixKehOa5D7P7UD1dcD6SczKqxDhG-73KZUO-ngSlmTtIWChwZ7wtT3oQ4_cpk2qD4c8BfDHjpOQQeh_sXn_iANlSwW-BrKcEVv7TopHoNV2VwNZJV89qXMjnczyIU6_dmAX886K1ALGkna1HAcSdOZVa0vDrGHkYM4lOOM-MtQuKC/s3280/PXL_20240303_142022653.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3280" data-original-width="2464" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO0zEW1EZkHU3ppogixKehOa5D7P7UD1dcD6SczKqxDhG-73KZUO-ngSlmTtIWChwZ7wtT3oQ4_cpk2qD4c8BfDHjpOQQeh_sXn_iANlSwW-BrKcEVv7TopHoNV2VwNZJV89qXMjnczyIU6_dmAX886K1ALGkna1HAcSdOZVa0vDrGHkYM4lOOM-MtQuKC/s320/PXL_20240303_142022653.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>With time to kill before my ferry, which only runs once per week, I rode my bike 20 miles north to the Milodon Caves where remnants of a giant sloth, including the hairy pelt, were found in 1845. The sloth is features throughout Puerto Natales so seeing the caves felt like a must. The caves were huge and the views stunning. People have been using them for 11,000 years, back when saber tooth tigers roamed the land. <p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWwHFSaw_jZnZfvtExxRomsIjEdjK5ljlME7D_AVgoaDMid0Geqrtp6_DKSiSXEShVk_S3bfK18jcRrBlEFj3hoqJP_kwnBRihFTK24CRhSoU597Egh8iNV6rnBy7e3in0tk8Cjn9dSwPEDOaxb1Tpvmv6eVOFQd60HUKW4co39aDbyiOGgvDKZtaURfj4/s4032/PXL_20240303_150509618.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWwHFSaw_jZnZfvtExxRomsIjEdjK5ljlME7D_AVgoaDMid0Geqrtp6_DKSiSXEShVk_S3bfK18jcRrBlEFj3hoqJP_kwnBRihFTK24CRhSoU597Egh8iNV6rnBy7e3in0tk8Cjn9dSwPEDOaxb1Tpvmv6eVOFQd60HUKW4co39aDbyiOGgvDKZtaURfj4/w640-h480/PXL_20240303_150509618.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-UUAp9Aa7Sc2PX7feIFCIlwGixDcN3qEBsrluPLzRI1vu10TzAm78uQTpSRf2SHr3ZG0vTi5cr4r-JBa298hLciN2tW_PCAccf9fYhxIcxcL9-N0u5MZp5HfVO3qsf6DLIvr6YBDInpJbLbTCjbU4rtnLaPvA_ZAwrrTT6zhB2ZO4s0XsJ8Rixs22OHRT/s3280/PXL_20240303_150940168.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2464" data-original-width="3280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-UUAp9Aa7Sc2PX7feIFCIlwGixDcN3qEBsrluPLzRI1vu10TzAm78uQTpSRf2SHr3ZG0vTi5cr4r-JBa298hLciN2tW_PCAccf9fYhxIcxcL9-N0u5MZp5HfVO3qsf6DLIvr6YBDInpJbLbTCjbU4rtnLaPvA_ZAwrrTT6zhB2ZO4s0XsJ8Rixs22OHRT/w640-h480/PXL_20240303_150940168.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdTWg5hzAiFvZQX4vQBhhMCJAJTTbVYE1RPBCmgwOuLStg_ejgtrKfSP5xosRuCCe6PodUOEc86oDB6qB0JE2vZ0tngoF1uArufEuy1dgyfbrf4GqkSzyf51MgNdQJ5CYu3YfoBjCUBKBpREDgVJgFhTqKXTORCXD0zLXqOa5PRIvVs_Lq3yB2dD3IYFzd/s4032/PXL_20240303_145907908.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdTWg5hzAiFvZQX4vQBhhMCJAJTTbVYE1RPBCmgwOuLStg_ejgtrKfSP5xosRuCCe6PodUOEc86oDB6qB0JE2vZ0tngoF1uArufEuy1dgyfbrf4GqkSzyf51MgNdQJ5CYu3YfoBjCUBKBpREDgVJgFhTqKXTORCXD0zLXqOa5PRIvVs_Lq3yB2dD3IYFzd/s320/PXL_20240303_145907908.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Hiking up to the view point, I ate sweet little ground berries and listened to wild parakeets jabbering in the trees. Through the misty skies, the peaks surrounding Torres del Paine national Park gave me tantalizing glimpses into what's to come. <p></p><p><br /></p><p>I ate some lunch, climbed on some rocks, biked all the trails in the park, watched the drizzly rain settle in for the day, and decided it was time to return to town. I took the back way which was good because I saw pink flamingos floating in the bay and was able to test my new rain coat out, but bad because I got plastered in mud. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT_2ecF8E60h5JS7YQNm0fv97uAvdIux5kTQipnZ0ScUmCcV8NPTDP5LPXn5TXbH9gBgIEdrUeVPP_Cy8-h_ijm1QrtIxz28Y-HcTSkzNP1bwlA4RcYT36mKc9QDQ2gTi9CUfTFFCtDDcb4MKTay3fmezVOGq3Bf8E9ztMw_dCFa8BjHfIraE1GTQ2SByQ/s3280/PXL_20240303_122543994.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3280" data-original-width="2464" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT_2ecF8E60h5JS7YQNm0fv97uAvdIux5kTQipnZ0ScUmCcV8NPTDP5LPXn5TXbH9gBgIEdrUeVPP_Cy8-h_ijm1QrtIxz28Y-HcTSkzNP1bwlA4RcYT36mKc9QDQ2gTi9CUfTFFCtDDcb4MKTay3fmezVOGq3Bf8E9ztMw_dCFa8BjHfIraE1GTQ2SByQ/s320/PXL_20240303_122543994.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />At my hostel I was able to hose down my bike (and my pants) then hop into a steamy shower. I didn't know how lucky I was until the front desk told me that the city had a main line break and all water would be shut down until late tonight. <p></p><p>Feels like a good start.</p>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-72471674630084393602023-11-13T11:15:00.000-08:002023-11-13T21:09:21.606-08:00Colorado Trail Race- A Beautiful Sufferfest<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5teNLWji98hHZ2jHvFG1U9m43QWf71Sq5qO6V4p3Hlcr3hgBLZDDlRCKaMyJltiLmCwmRG562pXzWmgrIi1B6mP0d3WkZOh4PlD_h4HVAzLhfUGQI7WnmHTHaqPfbNkpnmNfJOwBvgZXCwdgku4xscSLJ1YAYRhnMd2P11WTpVFsnw7sHgL7s6fVS4wTz/s2048/PXL_20230820_234347223_exported_1019_1692710482588.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5teNLWji98hHZ2jHvFG1U9m43QWf71Sq5qO6V4p3Hlcr3hgBLZDDlRCKaMyJltiLmCwmRG562pXzWmgrIi1B6mP0d3WkZOh4PlD_h4HVAzLhfUGQI7WnmHTHaqPfbNkpnmNfJOwBvgZXCwdgku4xscSLJ1YAYRhnMd2P11WTpVFsnw7sHgL7s6fVS4wTz/s320/PXL_20230820_234347223_exported_1019_1692710482588.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">I was sitting with my head on my knees, trying not to throw up the small amount of food I'd managed to eat. I expected the race to be hard, but I wasn't even mountain biking, instead I was walking much of the trail, sleeping too long, and not able to eat because I felt nauseous most of the time. I still had so far to go and was feeling way in over my head. This race was full of super human badass athletes who set records and have skills, and then there was me, stubborn and overconfident. "You have to keep going, "I told myself, "forward progress is still progress," and dragged myself up along Jarosa Mesa, a flat stretch of trail at 12,000 feet. The trail was studded with jagged rocks making it impossible for me to pedal. So I pushed, I sat down, I wheezed, I almost threw up, and then pushed some more. The trail started to look ridable so I climbed on my bike, pedaled 10 feet, then crashed hard onto my side, feet still clipped into my pedals. "Normal people sit on a beach for their vacation" I thought while I tenderly tried to flex my elbow. </div></span></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5BclEaw5yOxS8O9YFVg9HrPLQoZUN0QZzmdyyT1fO25UXP8UGcflC9DtBOR-ONPHAtu9dm200dx6hyah39lYovA6NDMJhMigqKfMYxvY0NNMrTN-bjPaEq8hu6uY_bFXA8ivSwRqNYMCPXggc3o9W1ZU7wqoDAhJznJMCOTmWvUS95vivZ3slJ8QKBuZG/s3280/PXL_20230810_111916666.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3280" data-original-width="2464" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5BclEaw5yOxS8O9YFVg9HrPLQoZUN0QZzmdyyT1fO25UXP8UGcflC9DtBOR-ONPHAtu9dm200dx6hyah39lYovA6NDMJhMigqKfMYxvY0NNMrTN-bjPaEq8hu6uY_bFXA8ivSwRqNYMCPXggc3o9W1ZU7wqoDAhJznJMCOTmWvUS95vivZ3slJ8QKBuZG/w240-h320/PXL_20230810_111916666.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>I decided to ride the Colorado Trail Race in the middle of the winter when summer is a long ways away and it seemed like a reasonable, yet challenging objective. After all, its just a bikepacking trip, only faster. Right. The race has no registration, no support, no prize, just the simple objective to ride your bike as fast as you can from Durango to Denver with no outside assistance. In 2022, the fastest woman, Alexandera Houchin, rode it in 6 days, 2 hours, and 33 minutes. <p></p> The night before I flew to Durango, a bee with a bad attitude stung me in the face. My eyes swelled shut and I didn't know how I would drive to the airport. Once there, I thought my identity would get questioned, I didn't even recognize myself, but all they cared about were my electrolyte gummies. Not the most ideal way to start this endeavor, but I figured this would be the first time I looked better at the end of the race than the beginning.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTrRWTtejNtqwfX1UGJtpNFwrw31hnhwEXeza26C3FAK-vab8jiIxLw1LUmxIbMi8MyKZ3ukSu2rGCwWxyexV43T8MABkJl3VRVcNjkIVS0KyYiiRODNtXmN2VTLT12QAIxw9VpNUo3lKcSuky632tchyphenhyphenBpJEB10xg3NI1lit9Naz7nLF482gR9SprHGw4/s4032/PXL_20230811_153449769.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTrRWTtejNtqwfX1UGJtpNFwrw31hnhwEXeza26C3FAK-vab8jiIxLw1LUmxIbMi8MyKZ3ukSu2rGCwWxyexV43T8MABkJl3VRVcNjkIVS0KyYiiRODNtXmN2VTLT12QAIxw9VpNUo3lKcSuky632tchyphenhyphenBpJEB10xg3NI1lit9Naz7nLF482gR9SprHGw4/w640-h480/PXL_20230811_153449769.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1vtCaD7du9YUbPtL7jdX7dlAv0_dh6BEI1XR27HQaSNzf4CAhCojYlsi979PjFz1LkCCq1LsZLuSaVUSLAr4e2s17zDaNvD5gYCCiQ8FZIu3O5TWPIlndmyVW4l5BSL-QFEsU5C8ErPY7DPVK3cbnthQ9H-yon81vnrpIQRRh_1HUnXnIMIg-fAloigHo/s4032/PXL_20230813_095318903.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1vtCaD7du9YUbPtL7jdX7dlAv0_dh6BEI1XR27HQaSNzf4CAhCojYlsi979PjFz1LkCCq1LsZLuSaVUSLAr4e2s17zDaNvD5gYCCiQ8FZIu3O5TWPIlndmyVW4l5BSL-QFEsU5C8ErPY7DPVK3cbnthQ9H-yon81vnrpIQRRh_1HUnXnIMIg-fAloigHo/w640-h480/PXL_20230813_095318903.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>At 4:00am, 76 riders nervously lined up and we all just rode off towards the trailhead in the dark. Looking up the dusty trail, all I could see was a line of lights snaking up the switchbacks for mile after mile. The first day was a blur of adrenaline and wheezy pleasant conversation with the incredibly entertaining "Rashhole." 46 miles and 8,800' of climbing later, a fairly cheery group of us camped just below Blackhawk Pass. I was surprised at the support and comradery between all the other riders, already, this was a race like no other. Unfortunately I brought pepperoni and cheese bites for dinner. I was choking them down, burping them up, and smelling them next to me all night. I no longer eat pepperoni.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYGJoumVC-mtRz6tBQ3JoQ5H3NEZqFPXou6O_duVr27_HS0pbzfc2BRUcVnVPYxfn2-pZizDOit-jzNJa620mixKtkQoTCaYDSwxL0IklAmJUgzYFDQ1Huc7OsJP2OOHZc-EdYHvB0Y5c06xKCzrIFdDZNv2nQN5Ro6ouJmCc8wN6w6GDu5l7Dbn0LSbG1/s4032/PXL_20230813_195758934.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYGJoumVC-mtRz6tBQ3JoQ5H3NEZqFPXou6O_duVr27_HS0pbzfc2BRUcVnVPYxfn2-pZizDOit-jzNJa620mixKtkQoTCaYDSwxL0IklAmJUgzYFDQ1Huc7OsJP2OOHZc-EdYHvB0Y5c06xKCzrIFdDZNv2nQN5Ro6ouJmCc8wN6w6GDu5l7Dbn0LSbG1/w640-h480/PXL_20230813_195758934.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />4am alarm, bleary eyes, and tired legs found half of our group already departed. Adrenaline had kept me tossing and turning while altitude left me nauseous. Time to pack up, try to eat (nope) and bike some amazing single track in the dark. As the sun came up, I was filled with such gratitude that I got to ride my bike in such beautiful landscape and disbelief that I was making it happen. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigR7i4Hx1XH5ISxZEKT2fCU8im-WhQJhfIg6TfpK1bdm5yrHM9mpwcrRN8Bjs8YH3FltVupV1f4UA2xt25ukruvk6XD7k0vhXc9MfHxX84TD7mwB5idOtQwVLPDeNFGaJ8J0uny4LRkmx7ICu4euRJeliSOMXEBlxXFTqcXhK1XjsIrrJdh5ZfCi9AcYI_/s4032/PXL_20230814_134651731.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigR7i4Hx1XH5ISxZEKT2fCU8im-WhQJhfIg6TfpK1bdm5yrHM9mpwcrRN8Bjs8YH3FltVupV1f4UA2xt25ukruvk6XD7k0vhXc9MfHxX84TD7mwB5idOtQwVLPDeNFGaJ8J0uny4LRkmx7ICu4euRJeliSOMXEBlxXFTqcXhK1XjsIrrJdh5ZfCi9AcYI_/w640-h480/PXL_20230814_134651731.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirXpwdAW3cn4KuV7Ij1xgckeb9wtdemHemomFYMaYXwoNbmc1GSkseQ9Evvqsn0upnDGa5lCK8sHwJJAea5jOl5SAbNXJMVl4tqUEMRnLWVJZ2LB2Kxb0VAcs3duvIiWnKlgeZRSCDjJB8cmppGimOtddeFEMjfcpB3b9BvfM2g1HuTfNCd24qGzlWj_fJ/s1600/image.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirXpwdAW3cn4KuV7Ij1xgckeb9wtdemHemomFYMaYXwoNbmc1GSkseQ9Evvqsn0upnDGa5lCK8sHwJJAea5jOl5SAbNXJMVl4tqUEMRnLWVJZ2LB2Kxb0VAcs3duvIiWnKlgeZRSCDjJB8cmppGimOtddeFEMjfcpB3b9BvfM2g1HuTfNCd24qGzlWj_fJ/w240-h320/image.jpg" width="240" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div>A thrilling 3k descent into Silverton meant cheeseburgers. I caught up to a group of riders and we all ate together and talked about the race. Mechanical issues and altitude sickness were causing people to drop out. After stuffing as many candy bars and frozen burritos as I could fit into my bike bags five of us decided to continue together in the pouring rain. Riding and pushing our bikes while telling every joke we could think of, we all made it over Stoney Pass. As dusk fell, the surroundings were stunning. Snow capped peaks and high alpine meadows for miles. The rain stopped and I pitched my tent next to Dan and Ellen, the two riders I rode closest to throughout the race. <div>I was discouraged that I only made it 44 miles but I was freezing, soaking wet, and the pull of settling into my warm, dry sleeping bag was too much to resist. <p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfs7MpP0cXZdrGk4Og80YQ7exyenWutZkij9LjPnHGUiwreeVVpW1qEY6D7197Xd-zDE14wTixJGMj1TU7pdmseTTNr0J9iCVsdPpiIscX7u825qouYNydtKq8LdNlBwnfJIXaYKxcj-ToqyEveAx9FszFt2H73vu9yDSx7MvoS1vLrTDongdIsIxLCOHd/s4032/PXL_20230815_020734140.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfs7MpP0cXZdrGk4Og80YQ7exyenWutZkij9LjPnHGUiwreeVVpW1qEY6D7197Xd-zDE14wTixJGMj1TU7pdmseTTNr0J9iCVsdPpiIscX7u825qouYNydtKq8LdNlBwnfJIXaYKxcj-ToqyEveAx9FszFt2H73vu9yDSx7MvoS1vLrTDongdIsIxLCOHd/w640-h480/PXL_20230815_020734140.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />In the early morning, just the faintest outlines of the mountains started to show, I was struck with what an incredible privilege it was to be able to do this. Throughout the race, each morning I would alternate between feeling incredibly sorry for myself and such joy of moving through the mountains. There wasn't much middle ground. <div><br /></div><div> The day wore on, it was hot, it was hard, but the high point of the entire trail was just ahead. Stopping for a quick photo, I was thrilled that I made it this far. "I'm doing ok, I can do this!" I thought, and then I burst into tears. </div><div>Descending from 13k, things started to fall apart. Each bump of the trail made me feel like I was going to throw up, my bike seat post kept falling down making my seat post bag rub against my back tire, the lever for my back brakes pulled all the way into my handle bar without stopping me, and then I hit Jarosa Mesa.<br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXNyu5szWhaByMwOoCHCWwBNQzjkJqqJcqvHMw3nGe-2Vm_idzkAAkQUDMMgaSprOCXWVZmE75VLS_KM6cxYWl7XMVt0-msLsNtBQwbCsCjgLmNY3pcj8BnCoW2Ucm-41aoPwctvgzFs-dzDIbkLktFCVun5zU0vl2dmM5MhH-GTchV74paEYupBQtMYU1/s3280/PXL_20230815_185121430.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2464" data-original-width="3280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXNyu5szWhaByMwOoCHCWwBNQzjkJqqJcqvHMw3nGe-2Vm_idzkAAkQUDMMgaSprOCXWVZmE75VLS_KM6cxYWl7XMVt0-msLsNtBQwbCsCjgLmNY3pcj8BnCoW2Ucm-41aoPwctvgzFs-dzDIbkLktFCVun5zU0vl2dmM5MhH-GTchV74paEYupBQtMYU1/w640-h480/PXL_20230815_185121430.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>I laid on the ground, tangled up with the rocks and my bike thinking I just don't want to do this anymore. More tears. Slowly picking myself up, I pushed my bike forward. A couple hikers asked me with slight alarm in their voice, if I needed help. Thankfully the trail smoothed out and I found myself on much needed section of dreamy single track. A mile later a group of through hikers stopped and cheered for me, "You're amazing!!" I of course, burst into tears, "it's so hard... but good" I assured them through my tears. Good grief, I thought, you've got to pull yourself together. And then I started my period. <p>I descended for miles and miles from Slumgullion Pass and finally limped my way to Cathedral Cabins after biking 57 miles and 8600' that day. Dan and Ellen both met me as I pulled up. "We rented a cabin," Ellen said in a tired voice, "do you want to share it?" I felt so relieved. Food and a shower made me feel a little less zombie-like. I crawled into my sleeping bag on the cabin floor. "I don't know about this," I said to Dan, "I could just slow down and turn this into just a ride." "I feel the same way," said Dan, "So what time are you setting your alarm?" </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-aLRgbcKR-x_yTHbl2xLvVo1CDHImtIAVCkTC0qZmLY5vl8csdZsQnA6bfnbnbjPPDkZ6rKR9fMgYJspxLddApKecCrzUGDv0pHlfo4uSJHpgK9UPM8jSr6e47EX_66-XeZX1ECZmjqmSxTXdaAbLmO3OOeD2dkk7Lwu_yHFpmfcEdd1wew9btFcY3vkv/s4032/PXL_20230817_135418174.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-aLRgbcKR-x_yTHbl2xLvVo1CDHImtIAVCkTC0qZmLY5vl8csdZsQnA6bfnbnbjPPDkZ6rKR9fMgYJspxLddApKecCrzUGDv0pHlfo4uSJHpgK9UPM8jSr6e47EX_66-XeZX1ECZmjqmSxTXdaAbLmO3OOeD2dkk7Lwu_yHFpmfcEdd1wew9btFcY3vkv/s320/PXL_20230817_135418174.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>With a morning of dirt roads, the miles thankfully racked up quickly, until the climb to Sargent's Mesa. An absolutely miserable stretch of biking/ hiking. The trail becomes a steep gully filled with baby heads. With herculean effort, I had to push my 65lb bike up a "trail" that slid you back with every step alternating with chunky step ups that tired legs and tired brains cannot ride. With the only water up and over the Mesa, there was no option but to continue. In the dark, I bumped along single track, dodging large dark cows that would startle when I biked near. Their bright white faces lit up like floating cow ghouls in my bike lights. Finally, I crossed Tank 7 Creek, my goal for the night. From over in the bushes came a "Wahoo!" from Ellen's tent, 67 miles.<p></p><p>The next morning I felt horrible but eventually drug myself out of bed after letting myself sleep in until 5. At the top of Marshall Pass a group of bikers cheered me on, told me I was crazy, and offered me an orange. My stomach was still not cooperating so I thanked them and proceeded to slide my way down Fooses Creek with some of the ugliest, sloppiest riding I've done to date. I camped after only 48 miles.</p><p> At the trailhead closest to Buena Vista, someone left a cooler with "Keep pedaling!" written on the top. Inside I found packets of trail mix, snicker bars, and cans of Dr Pepper still on ice. At 6:30am I shot-gunned a can of soda in a way that would impress any college party goer. It was the first thing my stomach had been happy about in days. Rolling into town in desperate need of new brake pads, I first stopped for breakfast and devoured a massive breakfast burrito, coffee, and two scones in a most unladylike way. I left Buena Vista feeling refueled and riding what felt like a brand new bike with the goal of making it to Leadville in time for a hot meal. Fortunately, I made it with just a half hour to spare before the last restaurant closed for the night. Too tired to bike farther, I found a great place to camp in the bushes at the north end of town. 74 miles. </p><p>At 4am, the sound a gunshot followed by the roar of a cheering crown woke me. I had accidently camped right next to the starting line of the Leadville 100. No snoozing through that alarm, I biked onward to Kokomo Pass. A hard, rough ride down to Copper Mountain ski area left me unmotivated to climb the Ten Mile Range. I sat in my own stink and slowly ate my french fries while trying to convince myself it wasn't going to be that bad.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij2DqWugPZaqDtM-rWWuMRHeivkN1t_KSj9ooRe6E_eTLrNwOpbOSg-bA9DaRtIHdihmBaaUp0gxBVhVPUzwx-5glIEGLP0GFCEdKtXOxYnLK8EUnV0eNCH9yfJfENFbFlWelZNq8BXqDtOyBg_zWKkzcIDbcGtN_V6v-7tjhZB2lOxJYQ3117VjhnlHsg/s4032/PXL_20230820_015439672.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij2DqWugPZaqDtM-rWWuMRHeivkN1t_KSj9ooRe6E_eTLrNwOpbOSg-bA9DaRtIHdihmBaaUp0gxBVhVPUzwx-5glIEGLP0GFCEdKtXOxYnLK8EUnV0eNCH9yfJfENFbFlWelZNq8BXqDtOyBg_zWKkzcIDbcGtN_V6v-7tjhZB2lOxJYQ3117VjhnlHsg/w640-h480/PXL_20230820_015439672.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQcOcrL1LY3r6LwXatPYf88Z8ncfaEJVRrX4OLQnICxi0BbRPuvdpQr91ZAgeI3RdcCqLoeuVB9myP47M_UjTu1QoD-OUiyPoGZ84Tp59QmFwMxxvpGlNTJkb0-mthARu3HGQsP57cvrn_qUSIJsKj8OSagll8zg_uLtt7r0D7VtpzDg9Ave3VGrP8qU3/s4032/PXL_20230820_014341344.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQcOcrL1LY3r6LwXatPYf88Z8ncfaEJVRrX4OLQnICxi0BbRPuvdpQr91ZAgeI3RdcCqLoeuVB9myP47M_UjTu1QoD-OUiyPoGZ84Tp59QmFwMxxvpGlNTJkb0-mthARu3HGQsP57cvrn_qUSIJsKj8OSagll8zg_uLtt7r0D7VtpzDg9Ave3VGrP8qU3/w640-h480/PXL_20230820_014341344.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfyakdvnMOUM-LrsqdHcgCMIBCCKOywflNTYoheR4Qi6HmQ12CSle2NPPUXluSmmA5pC9-QujDcsP7aw6frTz0rWDVk48GRUPkQOyW4WmILoZ9bO7SBrx2FmPCcAeAMP40XcTIK1K-FhzWt2s1LA6WzLHjP44lLlF8idk5u3gGSkjIX2VoR_5o8LAOgRf4/s4032/PXL_20230820_014338231.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfyakdvnMOUM-LrsqdHcgCMIBCCKOywflNTYoheR4Qi6HmQ12CSle2NPPUXluSmmA5pC9-QujDcsP7aw6frTz0rWDVk48GRUPkQOyW4WmILoZ9bO7SBrx2FmPCcAeAMP40XcTIK1K-FhzWt2s1LA6WzLHjP44lLlF8idk5u3gGSkjIX2VoR_5o8LAOgRf4/w640-h480/PXL_20230820_014338231.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Head down, pushing up the side of the mountain, I passed a young camper who said there was plenty of room if I wanted to stay. I told him I wish I could, but I needed to push on. "I'm so proud of you!" He called after me. Along the summit ridge, the wind was fierce and lightning was flashing on the next ridge over. "I'm ok, this is ok, everything is ok" I repeated over and over as the weather got worse and worse. I just had to make it down to tree line without doing anything dumb. Down in a sheltered meadow overlooking the lights of Breckenridge, I pitched my tent feeling relief that I made it off the ridge. Dan soon biked past and we had a quick exchange about how rattled the last climb left us and how our bodies were starting to fall apart. Sometimes telling someone they can do it, helps convince yourself that you can do the same. 42m.<p></p><p>Another bleary eyed morning and another unmarked trail junction, I stood there not sure of which way to go. Tired of having to check my map and wondering why this had to be so hard, an older man stood and watched my composure start to crumble. He asked if I was on the Colorado trail, then pointed to the right. "This is really hard." I softly said, close to tears. He simply and kindly replied, "I know." </p><p>Each stop turned into a task of filtering water, eating, putting sunscreen on, letting my butt air out, and staring vacantly into the distance. One poor hiker came around the corner while I was eating string cheese with my shorts around my knees and slapping salve onto my angry, red butt cheeks. He was so uncomfortable that he turned around and started hiking back in the opposite direction. This is not a glamorous sport. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzXyoHmlEwLD8Y4V8-OojhGzInLAmqyzhMXwkesOHAP3NlJTRbLAIWIN2m-5xqmbk8hQHQyilVV3WSCKYH5VEsFHTh5j2797JZwLcaSA_OA9wa9RJrjPDfqqaPdl_QvAyhrr2UdDlEBth1KurPoiCcGsxdYihnaFO4UXl3aYGJzUYZswsz1wdLmoBk_vb/s3280/PXL_20230820_175057984.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2464" data-original-width="3280" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzXyoHmlEwLD8Y4V8-OojhGzInLAmqyzhMXwkesOHAP3NlJTRbLAIWIN2m-5xqmbk8hQHQyilVV3WSCKYH5VEsFHTh5j2797JZwLcaSA_OA9wa9RJrjPDfqqaPdl_QvAyhrr2UdDlEBth1KurPoiCcGsxdYihnaFO4UXl3aYGJzUYZswsz1wdLmoBk_vb/w400-h300/PXL_20230820_175057984.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> Towards the evening, Dan caught up to me with a hoot and a high five. We biked together until it was dusk, then dark, then really dark, then my bike light ran out of battery, should have recharged it, but was too tired to deal with it when I had the opportunity. I was falling apart. I cheered for Dan as he pushed on in the dark, "I'm finishing this thing tomorrow, no matter what!" he said. I coasted alone with my failing headlamp until I found a spot on the side of the road to throw myself down. 66m.<p></p><p>Wake up in the dark, drag myself onto my bike, constantly feel like crap. I knew the drill now. I stopped at Wellington and bought a soda and ice cream sandwich, finishing both before I made it to the checkstand. It was getting so close now. Every time I saw myself making it to the end, just the thought would bring me to tears. I was passing day hikers and after work bikers. I asked a few hikers how far ahead Dan was. 10 minutes, 5 minutes, then a lady with a twinkling smile said, "2 minutes, go get him!" </p><p>Then there he was. Holy crap, we were actually going to finish this thing! We stopped at the top of a high point, "My girlfriend is bringing me a ice cold sprite, what do you want?" He asked. Beer sounded like pure heaven. We biked onward, riding down to Denver but still somehow going up. I popped out from the woods and started to pedal faster down the never ending Watertown Canyon road. 88 miles from the start of the day, I saw a paved parking lot.</p><p> Cheering erupted from a small crowd. Dan's friends were hooting, clapping, and holding a sign that said, "Yay Liz!" I thought I would end the CTR alone without anyone to share the accomplishment. Instead I found myself supported and surrounded by people I'd never met who had been rooting for me all along the way. Overwhelmed and touched, I did what I had been practicing for the last eight days, I cried.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV_qhI8K52i7lYziiV0gjAmTpkmyzZeGye2W8Z72BjMh_xYG8ER3qWmZnD_fZ_lzjUvdUIZkkdoHOLFGzORX2H7MZ_Rf5Wd2bzvHkrQOfYWwsdaez0k_txWhsuPC3LXEQOcyAXNgdqtK5hfKQMKGhA3tZNpx7k2QSsKv04fzCB2r_wGcDViH-v47NN4voM/s1121/PXL_20230822_012613900_exported_803_1692710449650.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="841" data-original-width="1121" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV_qhI8K52i7lYziiV0gjAmTpkmyzZeGye2W8Z72BjMh_xYG8ER3qWmZnD_fZ_lzjUvdUIZkkdoHOLFGzORX2H7MZ_Rf5Wd2bzvHkrQOfYWwsdaez0k_txWhsuPC3LXEQOcyAXNgdqtK5hfKQMKGhA3tZNpx7k2QSsKv04fzCB2r_wGcDViH-v47NN4voM/w640-h480/PXL_20230822_012613900_exported_803_1692710449650.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">And then got very drunk off one beer. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1p1N75gEtLTtvnOT6Hc2STuEP1wMjkTyWSzWWRzuK9reRmPEt01nKwzC_KsjPJYDN7bXYx9wxPxxYX_i1TBobCDE80d3aGqz3EcEED33rOfxFqQhSzjhpAjTuRaEdA-C8Gg8T17FYb1YdOXl9qN657tGonSnETk7ff9P_6PW8_8ZKA1fG-uWKZjzZO5do/s4032/PXL_20230822_013820301.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1p1N75gEtLTtvnOT6Hc2STuEP1wMjkTyWSzWWRzuK9reRmPEt01nKwzC_KsjPJYDN7bXYx9wxPxxYX_i1TBobCDE80d3aGqz3EcEED33rOfxFqQhSzjhpAjTuRaEdA-C8Gg8T17FYb1YdOXl9qN657tGonSnETk7ff9P_6PW8_8ZKA1fG-uWKZjzZO5do/w300-h400/PXL_20230822_013820301.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>Colorado Trail Race- 527 miles, 72,500 feet of elevation gain. In 2023, 76 riders started and 36 finished. I was a very happy #30.</p><p>Thank you so much to the new friends I made who picked me up post race and let me recover at their house, to the riders who made me feel part of an incredibly welcoming and encouraging community, and to everyone I passed on the trail who cheered me on. The experience still makes me want to cry.</p><p><br /></p></div></div></div>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-9364514848344876942023-08-08T18:48:00.001-07:002023-08-08T18:48:45.541-07:00Type 2 Fun- The Colorado Trail Race<p> 8 Aug 2023</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHe65Ojk7OmgieulZFPRVV6S7kq6Yyfjo77U_4yp_92unwNxpjhcvu4qLQo4IO3WVGLidsNAYWGT2YTFK3teQi4RQ2dk9vg2NtUO9Hi-FlkFQHCs00C5-pp1KKaCJPSBm_ZDKLKn2VeFOPaW5ZhOm1He8pfOMEOPQCUdhiZzNm_qbA25dk8PTv2LIIa7Om/s4032/PXL_20230809_004022007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHe65Ojk7OmgieulZFPRVV6S7kq6Yyfjo77U_4yp_92unwNxpjhcvu4qLQo4IO3WVGLidsNAYWGT2YTFK3teQi4RQ2dk9vg2NtUO9Hi-FlkFQHCs00C5-pp1KKaCJPSBm_ZDKLKn2VeFOPaW5ZhOm1He8pfOMEOPQCUdhiZzNm_qbA25dk8PTv2LIIa7Om/s320/PXL_20230809_004022007.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />Sane people spend their vacations swimming in the ocean, or riding a train through the Alps. I am mountain biking 527mi and climbing 72,500feet through the mountains of Colorado.The Colorado Trail Race, from Durango to Denver is a brutal, self supported bikepacking race. I wanted to do it ever since I first heard about it. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxoBbR2A23tPY1UztdeobuUVAOxvbY92u_3A71ZtA5pqUChacgT1MNr4ZqCSVIudw6qI3posvfwlTKbyjxGKLhCPRfW1N8otw8RNh-CXNks_7pBNunqMdhFf8tCEZvoI0WKElbNIb6yW7UB1YQt5Q4_7twALd9ardNdVxlNZC5ohmoHYP70f4mMJIWNry/s4032/PXL_20230809_004008488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxoBbR2A23tPY1UztdeobuUVAOxvbY92u_3A71ZtA5pqUChacgT1MNr4ZqCSVIudw6qI3posvfwlTKbyjxGKLhCPRfW1N8otw8RNh-CXNks_7pBNunqMdhFf8tCEZvoI0WKElbNIb6yW7UB1YQt5Q4_7twALd9ardNdVxlNZC5ohmoHYP70f4mMJIWNry/w400-h300/PXL_20230809_004008488.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>I've spent the summer neurotically reading everything I could find about the race and biking uphill. Unfortunately I live pretty much at sea level and most of the race is 10-12,000ft with a high point of (gulp) 13,200. My rides feel brutal, my legs burn, and I wheeze out mile after mile. This race is going to hurt... A lot. </p><p>Fortunately I will be suffering with others. You can track all the participants in real time and you'll be able to watch my glacial pace starting on Sunday August 13th starting at 4am. Gulp!</p><p>http://trackleaders.com/ctr23f.php</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-18434775756736351292022-08-08T15:18:00.000-07:002022-08-25T19:10:56.965-07:00 Biking Kyrgyzstan, at least that's the plan. - #1<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> 23 July 2022<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xtdqdVWpJEHKnbnQu9BcBAPA1-R2rE3KqwJAUb8OS7OBlnBv7Xbj7AIGEo2kZwinNMesgVN6xB5dUzg7FmOyGqBLUTf9gFl8kPmP5gpcPeR0voDDflPFH1JUDzDO18QrZ_gQy9fcSuepj0n-16FK5Z-CFBAzhD79I5JjAsbMOQrJqGvW5iXwjd-u_Q/s4160/IMG_20220718_120535546.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xtdqdVWpJEHKnbnQu9BcBAPA1-R2rE3KqwJAUb8OS7OBlnBv7Xbj7AIGEo2kZwinNMesgVN6xB5dUzg7FmOyGqBLUTf9gFl8kPmP5gpcPeR0voDDflPFH1JUDzDO18QrZ_gQy9fcSuepj0n-16FK5Z-CFBAzhD79I5JjAsbMOQrJqGvW5iXwjd-u_Q/w150-h200/IMG_20220718_120535546.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>Some people go to the beach for vacation. This is sounding like a better idea as I pack and repack everything into smaller bags for my mountain bike and hoping I brought enough for 4 weeks of camping in only mild discomfort. <p></p><p>Kyrgyzstan is home to the Tien Shan mountains, a massive range in central Asia with peaks over 24,000 feet tall. In the summer, nomadic herders bring their animals up to the high Meadows for the two months out of the year when they are not covered in snow. With amazing scenery, a culture known for its hospitality and kindness, some hastily learned Russian, and Kyrgyzstan being rated safer for travel than France or the United kingdom, it's time to stop dreaming about it and just go. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibBTvSWneKGcT2ORAniNWaQDRqCAd7uwCOwlfKjeXM_5DNraPa0_CAV8l_FFbib8W8bjD-Yzs1skD4F9sIYlKQZfSeGabwBEKzdIbLXiTAFE7VzXPzaY2OC4IBshhXRpaLt0yapnelfd_S97XRsc9VJj5LyXLRDzV47wQD-JeKmgL5VawVhNlvygY-pw/s4160/IMG_20220716_161547642.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibBTvSWneKGcT2ORAniNWaQDRqCAd7uwCOwlfKjeXM_5DNraPa0_CAV8l_FFbib8W8bjD-Yzs1skD4F9sIYlKQZfSeGabwBEKzdIbLXiTAFE7VzXPzaY2OC4IBshhXRpaLt0yapnelfd_S97XRsc9VJj5LyXLRDzV47wQD-JeKmgL5VawVhNlvygY-pw/w640-h480/IMG_20220716_161547642.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>With very limited space, certain things did not make the cut; shorts, trendy clothing, or deodorant. However, there are some luxuries I would not compromise on; a book, a light coffee mug, sandals, and a very small pumice stone so my feet will still resemble a human's after the trip. I've gone for a short test ride, got the horrible squeal my bike was making (hopefully?) fixed, and now a mere 22 hours of flying will bring me to Bishkek and the start of my adventure.</p><p>This is my entire kit for the trip including about 4-5 days of food. I'll need to buy a fuel canister, a lighter, and hopefully some better maps than the one I have, "Kyrgyzstan for the Businessman." <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3sFlkgok_Vrq2SIAVubYLAUhcjqHh_tQlxCwLSS5uAQq5uT2dQoKVMyxFx24z56lBiEC1n1YGof_zAhlO_O0e3mfOORg3wzMnfT5TMdyOkTkzWLr2TuGfoCqHesa5e_s71d0QskQ_u5W8zsGyiJTz9Dw1AdPfCyfv2F6JIYIZHmEhwrxaq3MIsmBpQ/s4160/IMG_20220718_150307834.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3sFlkgok_Vrq2SIAVubYLAUhcjqHh_tQlxCwLSS5uAQq5uT2dQoKVMyxFx24z56lBiEC1n1YGof_zAhlO_O0e3mfOORg3wzMnfT5TMdyOkTkzWLr2TuGfoCqHesa5e_s71d0QskQ_u5W8zsGyiJTz9Dw1AdPfCyfv2F6JIYIZHmEhwrxaq3MIsmBpQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220718_150307834.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-69287765571783405312022-08-07T01:56:00.000-07:002022-08-25T19:10:56.966-07:00Unpack, Assemble, Repack, and Ride#2<p> 26 July 2022-</p><p>Despite my lack of faith that my bike would show up the same time I did, my box came off the plane on time and unscathed.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO2_dGKH9cR7E6cueuMgrWujCTD9dBFMGU--2rmo7l8y7a-YZadMMnVhfUtpgsKf1Sa2HVdrFZVMWEnAFjyqR3uV-rBrhCzSnxPRmLU64e3a8qtvaC5HLKL1Ovw2Gu2g_DuNyEqXwQqDblf8GP6V3VKMA25gbrV4FiuO-p9596wd14MJ40NqQWCOjRbg/s4160/IMG_20220725_173005810.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO2_dGKH9cR7E6cueuMgrWujCTD9dBFMGU--2rmo7l8y7a-YZadMMnVhfUtpgsKf1Sa2HVdrFZVMWEnAFjyqR3uV-rBrhCzSnxPRmLU64e3a8qtvaC5HLKL1Ovw2Gu2g_DuNyEqXwQqDblf8GP6V3VKMA25gbrV4FiuO-p9596wd14MJ40NqQWCOjRbg/w640-h480/IMG_20220725_173005810.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p> I probably could have found a quieter place to assemble my bike than right outside the taxi drivers booth, but I was fast more entertaining for the drivers this way. "I have big car for big box, ok?" "You need taxi, bicycle no good" "you give me bike for my son when finish trip." It was good incentive to move quickly.</p><p>The road from airport into city was a busy 4 lanes with a shoulder full of broken glass and exit ramps with overpasses I was feeling apprehensive about cycling on the highway until I watched several herds of cows slowly cross all four lanes. Not as hectic after all.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNV8spkYJysMHFlsFY8VnDSen-2sNfWlPBkiGz_QToq_EWvBNs_Z3CAd89D4ZhlgZBZPb5_zB1ZnBRWypqN4HfU3Hm1HpJt07-I5OiZekpuyCcgqn_-Ezrsue4VL-fHRT2-40Uh4aEI5HfzkCcWXm3vDroDuyuCc-x0fcs4oLHE9qZ5t62oJSJ8qL-jA/s4160/IMG_20220725_181537775_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNV8spkYJysMHFlsFY8VnDSen-2sNfWlPBkiGz_QToq_EWvBNs_Z3CAd89D4ZhlgZBZPb5_zB1ZnBRWypqN4HfU3Hm1HpJt07-I5OiZekpuyCcgqn_-Ezrsue4VL-fHRT2-40Uh4aEI5HfzkCcWXm3vDroDuyuCc-x0fcs4oLHE9qZ5t62oJSJ8qL-jA/w640-h480/IMG_20220725_181537775_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Massive mountains covered in snow set the back drop for the city of Bishkek but the smog from the city partly obscured the view. I managed to exchange money, find a canister for my stove, get food, and order a milkshake via charades. My attempts at Russian have been pitiful at best. </p><p> Instead of spending a second day in the capital in Temps over 100, tomorrow I'm speeding towards the mountains at 6 mph. Mountain Lakes and high altitude, here I come!</p>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-6552305211943512632022-08-06T06:50:00.000-07:002022-08-25T19:10:56.965-07:00Kegeti Pass- the Big Push. #3<p>July 29, 2022</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikqHbYus7x93wPX943F7KENpi5pJSYC11siYdIvQlstBOx97q2VkSTYEqloBV3focWTpx7y-jEKTsW5pAYH1NzIqvIqP4vgusfgWWJ9svxp9Vzp4FAFGo_AZx8AXRcVqsHm5GyXJH7FPqYPAl5tGSckY02FtPllGcjQzdlQ8JbtzG-vJ1rt6SLUV2AJA/s4160/IMG_20220727_072136240.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikqHbYus7x93wPX943F7KENpi5pJSYC11siYdIvQlstBOx97q2VkSTYEqloBV3focWTpx7y-jEKTsW5pAYH1NzIqvIqP4vgusfgWWJ9svxp9Vzp4FAFGo_AZx8AXRcVqsHm5GyXJH7FPqYPAl5tGSckY02FtPllGcjQzdlQ8JbtzG-vJ1rt6SLUV2AJA/w640-h480/IMG_20220727_072136240.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div dir="auto" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYdVXXlWnT0v1kDUsv9WRVTqYdg1qLV6N-NhaR_Cz36U_kBh_LspwW2An1OkiSipjIPDoIRBl0lKKH4qqlLzpdGHVbjDdEOX3OSJXCzCOWdpQrqwCRaOFPjlvsNvBQz8UGA1_8y5HRIzAaShB6vhW0u-j7hy-2-5H1-gVDo_eSLtKJ_BpVkO9oLablng/s4160/IMG_20220727_093820978_HDR.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYdVXXlWnT0v1kDUsv9WRVTqYdg1qLV6N-NhaR_Cz36U_kBh_LspwW2An1OkiSipjIPDoIRBl0lKKH4qqlLzpdGHVbjDdEOX3OSJXCzCOWdpQrqwCRaOFPjlvsNvBQz8UGA1_8y5HRIzAaShB6vhW0u-j7hy-2-5H1-gVDo_eSLtKJ_BpVkO9oLablng/w240-h320/IMG_20220727_093820978_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Time change and jet lag left me taping my feet in the wee hours of the morning waiting for daybreak to start riding. </div><div dir="auto" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: large;">My ride out of Bishkektook me 40 miles along the base of the range before heading up a river valley where the relentless elevation began. A quick stop to grab some pine flavored soda and mushroom flavored chips to fuel my climb.</div><div dir="auto" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIN452FG-gNimqyqFa6lpI64qx6sl2dgfwpB0CMOtxxuNG_1sv9a0CQQHw95SzWTSTxnni4Nx9LvqTIJhaD2N037P1jQmMF1EQI0-pb1z6N4I7Fdx2CUTGsW8uJ4M-FjTp9mQNJh1gxGVF3pjeIXcWSp517tEICBuo6ZXNB4LtkQ7XwvsaXvAdqdwQQ/s4160/IMG_20220728_103308377.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIN452FG-gNimqyqFa6lpI64qx6sl2dgfwpB0CMOtxxuNG_1sv9a0CQQHw95SzWTSTxnni4Nx9LvqTIJhaD2N037P1jQmMF1EQI0-pb1z6N4I7Fdx2CUTGsW8uJ4M-FjTp9mQNJh1gxGVF3pjeIXcWSp517tEICBuo6ZXNB4LtkQ7XwvsaXvAdqdwQQ/s320/IMG_20220728_103308377.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div dir="auto" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: large;">The road was fairly smooth and the surface got better, for the most part, the higher I went. If you had momentum you could ride the road, but I had none, so I pushed. I decided to camp around 10,000' since I was wary of the weather and the elevation. That evening rain periodically pelted my saggy tent then lighting flashed and before I could even count to 1, thunder shook the mountains around me. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi23_0eOkoOCpkluNXN_rUxy5R5EssP3Yfx0LkEkOkK9uI3r98G1BsPLOkHsVHf0_k--DGp4XrljQlRgwsBeTK_6snG86FjkUdACw-ZfLJ6ei8hdshQ8jggNDiqwVAf4Z-vbGgqTmnlldh7AdqviTe0PDtFINl-c_JGpKZpEDR0fCYjhaawXTBKT0YQPw/s4160/IMG_20220728_144955396_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi23_0eOkoOCpkluNXN_rUxy5R5EssP3Yfx0LkEkOkK9uI3r98G1BsPLOkHsVHf0_k--DGp4XrljQlRgwsBeTK_6snG86FjkUdACw-ZfLJ6ei8hdshQ8jggNDiqwVAf4Z-vbGgqTmnlldh7AdqviTe0PDtFINl-c_JGpKZpEDR0fCYjhaawXTBKT0YQPw/w640-h480/IMG_20220728_144955396_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div dir="auto" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: large;">The morning was clear and calm so I resumed my push. If I tried to ride, I would go for just a short bit before my lungs and legs left me gasping and draped over my handler bars. I figured a steady push was better all around. After passing several sheep carcasses, I finally made the top at 12,400'. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV70zuU4350yXo3VOxHqafNHcfSvEkujXbiqJCklAag8cgOenmdUM14JPU4t5lGrl1LbdqnTUbhJ4ns_DA2-Bpzn5Z8U0N2ZMgMArDjgZpI-AvVRe3YfyYqbmUjM2DTrlQpsw1fJuuMdLeiOwd2tGpF1_4c6-Tv3YqoY7otY86dV2q54BSuuRYdWb1kw/s4160/IMG_20220729_095115177.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV70zuU4350yXo3VOxHqafNHcfSvEkujXbiqJCklAag8cgOenmdUM14JPU4t5lGrl1LbdqnTUbhJ4ns_DA2-Bpzn5Z8U0N2ZMgMArDjgZpI-AvVRe3YfyYqbmUjM2DTrlQpsw1fJuuMdLeiOwd2tGpF1_4c6-Tv3YqoY7otY86dV2q54BSuuRYdWb1kw/w640-h480/IMG_20220729_095115177.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkS6Nwofg5V8g7svcmlY-6FnD0pzW7DIesaAaREni26UzvEvQOhxYFZIdpGRrB0eNuKb1GLLAhnCJlh6SJvZcCozSOy1V9ALX5bRoYws8vspQpugvfeYnmyoxnk-9X0v97srFbn_LiaXIOKd-6T0CUSi466ZgGVZonvY_0XYZzRO_S_QlxPpspNRmY8Q/s2592/IMG_20220729_095754826_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="2592" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkS6Nwofg5V8g7svcmlY-6FnD0pzW7DIesaAaREni26UzvEvQOhxYFZIdpGRrB0eNuKb1GLLAhnCJlh6SJvZcCozSOy1V9ALX5bRoYws8vspQpugvfeYnmyoxnk-9X0v97srFbn_LiaXIOKd-6T0CUSi466ZgGVZonvY_0XYZzRO_S_QlxPpspNRmY8Q/w640-h480/IMG_20220729_095754826_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div dir="auto" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: large;">Down the other side was it's own adventure. Landslides had obliterated the road leaving an ever changing track to navigate. Fearing for my life and my derailer hanger, again, I walked my bike. Fortunately after about 3/4 of a mile, the road was ridable and lovely. I followed a river valley for miles down to the villages below.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsn89ZNXR7HzqRvAGOZikHrRSmDqSv3C-DOyO9B5KncK8E6Sv3WzsmZ3X6j5_XgMXsadBdgradbnpYKj_j-IcaqLHoOOlzdpczKVuA_acx92uHKFfdbbFDnG6uNP0XsU9IFyXF21nvOOpOIqY24bnmsw8ua31BbHbfKSohNw7ngn6xNhyZTahpvkzEeQ/s4160/IMG_20220729_105028814_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsn89ZNXR7HzqRvAGOZikHrRSmDqSv3C-DOyO9B5KncK8E6Sv3WzsmZ3X6j5_XgMXsadBdgradbnpYKj_j-IcaqLHoOOlzdpczKVuA_acx92uHKFfdbbFDnG6uNP0XsU9IFyXF21nvOOpOIqY24bnmsw8ua31BbHbfKSohNw7ngn6xNhyZTahpvkzEeQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220729_105028814_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Hxvy2yln5_zZqDs5PrbZEwTHaK6uGaMjXt0JEtvpw7aQyjGqhJTDMbrWWSRX34zS_WsLarRI3OdKQ6nkqi75TNHgICcRH3wC51qWKoBj8d23WVQzqIbHQVbwjUQldBBJwS-ehhqQoa0sbkT7ks7752Enj8jPjZzArxPDlt8ktqeGJR1e6bhJhZnJnQ/s4160/IMG_20220729_115630836_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Hxvy2yln5_zZqDs5PrbZEwTHaK6uGaMjXt0JEtvpw7aQyjGqhJTDMbrWWSRX34zS_WsLarRI3OdKQ6nkqi75TNHgICcRH3wC51qWKoBj8d23WVQzqIbHQVbwjUQldBBJwS-ehhqQoa0sbkT7ks7752Enj8jPjZzArxPDlt8ktqeGJR1e6bhJhZnJnQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220729_115630836_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzSUMs-3yzr9rWII7ufdS7K0QHmZEG_LUJfQ_XOuXpkO20-Z8AHnjRjyjtTbpFPrIdZ7sE5GLeEInJeWtuHgg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div dir="auto" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-31683772334122331502022-08-05T08:29:00.000-07:002022-08-25T19:10:56.966-07:00Onwards and Upwards to Son Kul - #4<p> 31 July 2022</p><p>Once down from Kegeti and ready for more after buying a carton of apple juice and some oats, I headed to Kyzart Pass. Sometimes my sit bones say enough is enough so I found a nice spot in-between two yurts to pitch my tent for the night.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSyxFpNYKQ_d4kjpYQhSE3W9h2ltF3gLGxG3yslN5QBfj4BmWukOYLl_FK-tW5EUUXPTRef5057HU44wZ_Fnk08FUwBuI_jhSbimqCb9gE2KvBvOcG5a--9fhmygShYtlYU_N3PQTpuc180f7HKxJewVfsXcmn6BTho6o_IJ8vs8aGFKHrQv-PVUR_Aw/s4160/IMG_20220729_185620992_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSyxFpNYKQ_d4kjpYQhSE3W9h2ltF3gLGxG3yslN5QBfj4BmWukOYLl_FK-tW5EUUXPTRef5057HU44wZ_Fnk08FUwBuI_jhSbimqCb9gE2KvBvOcG5a--9fhmygShYtlYU_N3PQTpuc180f7HKxJewVfsXcmn6BTho6o_IJ8vs8aGFKHrQv-PVUR_Aw/w640-h480/IMG_20220729_185620992_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The next morning I left the road for the "trekking route" to Son Kul lake. My full suspension mountain bike is slight overkill for most of the riding I'm doing, so I figured I might as well take it on a more sporty route. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeAu8p3wiQNEhBM0y3f3ELPaOnnR4mObOQWi6DSp7wghJYQOrKm7wyC3hd0zQ4fnR_Cegx8bgysqETH201KWQOHKWDPv1rwY70PP1P_-RU62tzb0VU8SBDoHRb_2-p7E1jip1A21YinZgTCBSCRZ7hnzzTOnXKs4Hu6RJ6cyYNsy0tGu-5EyWP3ldkrg/s4160/IMG_20220730_120951610.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeAu8p3wiQNEhBM0y3f3ELPaOnnR4mObOQWi6DSp7wghJYQOrKm7wyC3hd0zQ4fnR_Cegx8bgysqETH201KWQOHKWDPv1rwY70PP1P_-RU62tzb0VU8SBDoHRb_2-p7E1jip1A21YinZgTCBSCRZ7hnzzTOnXKs4Hu6RJ6cyYNsy0tGu-5EyWP3ldkrg/s320/IMG_20220730_120951610.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p>The riding was fantastic and I found myself riding smooth single track along very steep side hills, crossing rivers, and dropping into an isolated valley full of yurts and herds of horses and cows. </p><p>My route took me high up to what looked like an impossible grassy headwall. Step by step and hour by hour I pushed my bike uphill. It was questionable if throwing it on my shoulders would have been easier. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuihVkmSU2ag-pgqhP2ykgJPaldHUKAhP0moER6J3rMxvyoC0PfdkCcynHq44od8Oo-79hHIK6koO5wrELQwTopsCodisk4CYAZx7OJyfVBTffVWleojm_2ZmhAIuH5lBUjuF_I9F5hCM8CuTTkUrCUSTLMz2VTsv7TS9nfy54mxBVTfLvumV_tfiFxw/s4160/IMG_20220730_124437672.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuihVkmSU2ag-pgqhP2ykgJPaldHUKAhP0moER6J3rMxvyoC0PfdkCcynHq44od8Oo-79hHIK6koO5wrELQwTopsCodisk4CYAZx7OJyfVBTffVWleojm_2ZmhAIuH5lBUjuF_I9F5hCM8CuTTkUrCUSTLMz2VTsv7TS9nfy54mxBVTfLvumV_tfiFxw/w640-h480/IMG_20220730_124437672.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcM4PPO7pze4OtIxPMvD5avnDHnJEhMxPviQoLEZVyv3YPSSAmibBtM8nDP1ZKW4dmWPWQUHv5vMye8UbqY2C6_Ym7ot4oN9DR2GUkcMeAaLA5y9w7M9VySCIBWdd21BtLO5Lj4uqOzP2AHs3apnS5XO5sWtSlgwkXngKYI3P9iy3_5B5W6Axm1mPu5g/s2592/IMG_20220730_144645740_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="2592" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcM4PPO7pze4OtIxPMvD5avnDHnJEhMxPviQoLEZVyv3YPSSAmibBtM8nDP1ZKW4dmWPWQUHv5vMye8UbqY2C6_Ym7ot4oN9DR2GUkcMeAaLA5y9w7M9VySCIBWdd21BtLO5Lj4uqOzP2AHs3apnS5XO5sWtSlgwkXngKYI3P9iy3_5B5W6Axm1mPu5g/w640-h480/IMG_20220730_144645740_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />At last I pushed and lifted my bike through the final rocks on the ridge and got my first glimpse of the lake. Hours of effort were quickly forgotten as the looming storm clouds urged me down off the pass. I zoomed down hill, spooking a herd of horses which galloped beside me for a bit before veering away. <p></p><p>The storm clouds caught up with me and with sideways hail driving me forward, I stopped at the first yurt I saw and asked the woman there if she had tea. She nodded and gestured for me to come inside. Soaking wet, I ditched my shoes and dove through the door. With hot tea, thick slices of bread, and slabs of gooey butter in my belly, I sat with the family and tested out my very rudimentary Russian. The family now knows that I have 2 dogs, one cat 2 brothers, a mother, and a husband (which they didn't believe). </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwlDDoWMJqTEi5-AFrO1ZXsIXYXftvSGH4vozLYEtXojRh1WHncFcJR2NyFaXFzqT5i_gPLdu-SYzD02uBcHFHCIdw1KZJkY4brT1auoohaSDBPul-UCtjzAlSKxntrtaMwQAy-Es5lNVYX-otg668-gXg8nr1bjcGqfpI9_gorrs-0Uf7bxhffivUUw/s4160/IMG_20220731_062018023_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwlDDoWMJqTEi5-AFrO1ZXsIXYXftvSGH4vozLYEtXojRh1WHncFcJR2NyFaXFzqT5i_gPLdu-SYzD02uBcHFHCIdw1KZJkY4brT1auoohaSDBPul-UCtjzAlSKxntrtaMwQAy-Es5lNVYX-otg668-gXg8nr1bjcGqfpI9_gorrs-0Uf7bxhffivUUw/w640-h480/IMG_20220731_062018023_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqUxTcQ0AiiqjCuSKDdEAH7g6AL-WRIVjEEpcsa05jERJR4x3W_0sb9f4KlOCDtABm_ypz8NZ4UCXltaCk3FaEt-zHNB3kGu57ya_HhrlPAH8t8_4Bff2l88bAnwDh5EPHweGiu_TpRfEG5N9fMwNHs8gPEJjGFXFH6eUbRSFqvYuA58VH3dZBYJG54w/s4160/IMG_20220730_190222829_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqUxTcQ0AiiqjCuSKDdEAH7g6AL-WRIVjEEpcsa05jERJR4x3W_0sb9f4KlOCDtABm_ypz8NZ4UCXltaCk3FaEt-zHNB3kGu57ya_HhrlPAH8t8_4Bff2l88bAnwDh5EPHweGiu_TpRfEG5N9fMwNHs8gPEJjGFXFH6eUbRSFqvYuA58VH3dZBYJG54w/w640-h480/IMG_20220730_190222829_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBGne6rXMuxy5F7lqm6bF5bz85B9pMJmi9Uu7o9dgpmZLsRK-I0hDju1jXOVpX0CfavwUguE23eJmH2US23IykXlOb1aTC2TgEI4Hv5uFtfI-w_YKvwC4SUystUlett0jZGJOlw6iAL25vn1JGVw2UtrGVmZuZ-zeioJm_JVvQ6IFGHhV741VRK6z7uQ/s4160/IMG_20220731_053947469.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBGne6rXMuxy5F7lqm6bF5bz85B9pMJmi9Uu7o9dgpmZLsRK-I0hDju1jXOVpX0CfavwUguE23eJmH2US23IykXlOb1aTC2TgEI4Hv5uFtfI-w_YKvwC4SUystUlett0jZGJOlw6iAL25vn1JGVw2UtrGVmZuZ-zeioJm_JVvQ6IFGHhV741VRK6z7uQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220731_053947469.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>They had a small yurt that they invited me to stay in and with nasty weather continuing to roll in, I was happy to say yes. In the evening I played soccer and did handstands with the kids. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3lkjckm26Yu-z7MA2DcSaE6gcnUZF1OsXrYEdA3qR4W_gHSV2YWTUCyd4AWpPGZu-BUwMULpqeHYeDA04kbj6YLSWsmuMxX0Myb3mCSU3s8NZRLlZdNvmRZAEDmp1UzykEXrnhFpK3romFhihLL-mv6HnHOCiXJIJH2N4wzf3nNsksajDuWBAWpLwQ/s4160/IMG_20220731_072315700.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3lkjckm26Yu-z7MA2DcSaE6gcnUZF1OsXrYEdA3qR4W_gHSV2YWTUCyd4AWpPGZu-BUwMULpqeHYeDA04kbj6YLSWsmuMxX0Myb3mCSU3s8NZRLlZdNvmRZAEDmp1UzykEXrnhFpK3romFhihLL-mv6HnHOCiXJIJH2N4wzf3nNsksajDuWBAWpLwQ/s320/IMG_20220731_072315700.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>In the morning there was new snow on the mountain tops and it was hard to make myself get back on my bicycle. Saying goodbye to the owner of the yurt, he wrapped me into a big bear hug, gave me a kiss on the cheek, and a hearty slap on the back. <p></p><p>I worked my way around the east side of the lake (the 2nd largest in Kyrgyzstan) as the sun sparked on the water and then ducked behind clouds making me scramble for my coat.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzswBoAF53IhDMtpAQv6Y1E8um--TNjXHg5SDx7QJvp0L_XV36EKIfWi087U7HvJfRQjBznxgxjmqQZ2HOMhTzZC-6YTqXkPEx9vStLcA0He2ROitVbBAHr5AzB-D1Z3BP3icweArCllADaznd_MlzG8IZor96zBC4z5tIN_MHSynHOXDM26O00ZN-SA/s4160/IMG_20220731_122402992.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzswBoAF53IhDMtpAQv6Y1E8um--TNjXHg5SDx7QJvp0L_XV36EKIfWi087U7HvJfRQjBznxgxjmqQZ2HOMhTzZC-6YTqXkPEx9vStLcA0He2ROitVbBAHr5AzB-D1Z3BP3icweArCllADaznd_MlzG8IZor96zBC4z5tIN_MHSynHOXDM26O00ZN-SA/w640-h480/IMG_20220731_122402992.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Still feeling tired legs from the day before, I decided that this is a vacation after all and stayed at one of the tourist yurt camps along the shore.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5VB0Dpw7Tz7AMmFdIY4CssASZIpqO3QrdsBZf_ob9zn4Kr0BDujs2Q4i5p6NHYNH67PaRISzyfXkO6QULZxM-sEegRsJebNSPvoqdsx9Uj00sz1dkerJeW-O7AMgcr2cNV3lOJYW4Y60_jbGUnjSqDZHFo5-x_XGajHd6gi7fvrzExeSqB6p488jdLg/s4160/IMG_20220731_195944386.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5VB0Dpw7Tz7AMmFdIY4CssASZIpqO3QrdsBZf_ob9zn4Kr0BDujs2Q4i5p6NHYNH67PaRISzyfXkO6QULZxM-sEegRsJebNSPvoqdsx9Uj00sz1dkerJeW-O7AMgcr2cNV3lOJYW4Y60_jbGUnjSqDZHFo5-x_XGajHd6gi7fvrzExeSqB6p488jdLg/w640-h480/IMG_20220731_195944386.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>I rolled up and found myself "camping" with a group of 7 people on a guided two week cycle tour. I convinced one of them to hike up the hill behind the camp to search for petroglyphs. Success and a panoramic view of the lake. The petroglyphs are 2-3000 years old.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghejSpFipR6FfxFaVsIWLQOWGLrBT5v3RSZm3-D0z0JVkMERwQ96-S10T64WstRIDmbjULKMTvRFtus5rClA0g8eOIML0KgFGnyZbrv81V1YseVU7mE6UUqhqow7KXwclLy9jI3dpngE7DQAwZDd0TXYDuocDw3NUJZrcWSdf1sAwq5jSAjovZE67xAQ/s4160/IMG_20220731_171222497_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghejSpFipR6FfxFaVsIWLQOWGLrBT5v3RSZm3-D0z0JVkMERwQ96-S10T64WstRIDmbjULKMTvRFtus5rClA0g8eOIML0KgFGnyZbrv81V1YseVU7mE6UUqhqow7KXwclLy9jI3dpngE7DQAwZDd0TXYDuocDw3NUJZrcWSdf1sAwq5jSAjovZE67xAQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220731_171222497_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq2uiZSValSTYoQffHNyMWe-0xwxxV2JPTL1eXA7DvjcM182RMgG5gSYif0savydhyeckT8b4qQLJay8vRIaQgwvX3EMCZubOCwayJO2ldDPXZrONXvi0Tx3YBZsMZaFWEXsfV8YWMGadQmcCEJrp_Ox3UkIebFp4Hn7Td5OP-ZsFvBYua3I0_FplEMg/s4160/IMG_20220731_172141049_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq2uiZSValSTYoQffHNyMWe-0xwxxV2JPTL1eXA7DvjcM182RMgG5gSYif0savydhyeckT8b4qQLJay8vRIaQgwvX3EMCZubOCwayJO2ldDPXZrONXvi0Tx3YBZsMZaFWEXsfV8YWMGadQmcCEJrp_Ox3UkIebFp4Hn7Td5OP-ZsFvBYua3I0_FplEMg/w640-h480/IMG_20220731_172141049_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-bRjoCrQPOrLpubH_GDW03AjMHsFbN_d3LkACIpddMio9LZtxCkIndW-_ZTfcaoPyITSkx7jFyHmJrm9qh_5oJPREa8wS3P6vsZkI4AjYns2uF4sEH2rIXqhDX7FM71HqUYDK59aWS9UstAwSdgzoKlRTQw3yJVTUqglnIN2zIzoTDJb5Y4CUTzb4OQ/s4160/IMG_20220731_171201727.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-bRjoCrQPOrLpubH_GDW03AjMHsFbN_d3LkACIpddMio9LZtxCkIndW-_ZTfcaoPyITSkx7jFyHmJrm9qh_5oJPREa8wS3P6vsZkI4AjYns2uF4sEH2rIXqhDX7FM71HqUYDK59aWS9UstAwSdgzoKlRTQw3yJVTUqglnIN2zIzoTDJb5Y4CUTzb4OQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220731_171201727.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>That night was a welcome change of pace with good conversation and a few raucous games of Uno.</p><p>I loaded up with breakfast and instant coffee, said my goodbyes, and headed south. I dropped 4,000 feet into the hot valley below.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoylreHTSQs7Z5lsZ2Yr6e_66FS7svEm0-ENbMzVFShZkgKGBZXH2qFml8xGMQV0sdVTvFb3hT8QEExidRELcFonBQdxcjU1c9raBU4WuZ6u3qiCWMcBCpVxa5rcY8SSxUqgbW96nGXk-onMtXQnlEJoGJ1JTIm9VR5OHNr_S_ePDJPcrZjSRWwIWrvA/s4160/IMG_20220801_102434406_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoylreHTSQs7Z5lsZ2Yr6e_66FS7svEm0-ENbMzVFShZkgKGBZXH2qFml8xGMQV0sdVTvFb3hT8QEExidRELcFonBQdxcjU1c9raBU4WuZ6u3qiCWMcBCpVxa5rcY8SSxUqgbW96nGXk-onMtXQnlEJoGJ1JTIm9VR5OHNr_S_ePDJPcrZjSRWwIWrvA/w640-h480/IMG_20220801_102434406_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyY9_YKVGpvW8VZyoY6B59UEFVHtni5aMPXbNuikX1LqwYoVb5679tiPx7w7NElmRO09BzU6tkvL7ac34cdvQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-41700492844542106862022-08-04T00:48:00.005-07:002022-08-25T19:10:56.966-07:00More Cushion, Less Pushing! #5<p> 4 Aug 2022</p><p>After a fantastic descent and my first shower of the trip at the perfectly named Solviet era Hotel Desperation, I felt almost ready to tackle the next climb.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhptaH96XJ1WAHO-q9bmxXBrHZIY04dm0slg6oMNlbeRV3vXekhJr11OscUGmjcQsuRx9niT-NJr3ygGWvRUSOx8fPleTLgeB44w10Q7zwgVDrR9c-GVWzd_ByZARe6mFYhOrEgHIKHOZZ1XP3bsm5-nd3DSLnsiv-pg-dvbSSE2ofXu0uf-hnPniT7Cg/s4160/IMG_20220802_090634001.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhptaH96XJ1WAHO-q9bmxXBrHZIY04dm0slg6oMNlbeRV3vXekhJr11OscUGmjcQsuRx9niT-NJr3ygGWvRUSOx8fPleTLgeB44w10Q7zwgVDrR9c-GVWzd_ByZARe6mFYhOrEgHIKHOZZ1XP3bsm5-nd3DSLnsiv-pg-dvbSSE2ofXu0uf-hnPniT7Cg/w640-h480/IMG_20220802_090634001.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> A cycle through hot valleys, past hilltop cemetery cities, and then up, up, up. The climbs are so steep, upwards of 12% on lose gravel and rocks. Just when I was thinking this was crazy, I'm was passed by a guy driving a 2 wheel drive dinky car towing a trailer with a large cow in it. If that thing could make it, so could I. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5y2Daurc_FYwIzKmXXBTbdMfcTxE-oqmclDr_3mjznOvg8ek-5KsZBJE2Ju4DNA82v8pWD_sJtOm9kVffOYjpl_Nk3UDz_BqIV_7qtlahEaWfIPNubqQiG_1koM6SERjNYxCsSrTSAx36KBtVJQ9nzE1wT1S_r4juGjPgW4dtp_-pXq7K7BUORf7lHw/s2592/IMG_20220802_143829546_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="2592" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5y2Daurc_FYwIzKmXXBTbdMfcTxE-oqmclDr_3mjznOvg8ek-5KsZBJE2Ju4DNA82v8pWD_sJtOm9kVffOYjpl_Nk3UDz_BqIV_7qtlahEaWfIPNubqQiG_1koM6SERjNYxCsSrTSAx36KBtVJQ9nzE1wT1S_r4juGjPgW4dtp_-pXq7K7BUORf7lHw/w640-h480/IMG_20220802_143829546_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Mels Pass was of course gorgeous and the struggles are quickly forgotten when a good view is in front of me. With storm clouds chasing me, I zoomed downhill, crossed a river, and started the next climb. With tired legs and the storm catching up, I decided to camp for the night. As soon as I set my tent up, the rain started and lightning lit the sky around me.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjBtaVWIYQaFAhT6ft8xz8nLwA1AaxYkKPj-UrcG7N7kSiSs32sCmclBf2RVczbrycCaeBYalo7glVmUl0mWgr5jS76ns8spOWTgnhl6YvR8ge0i6RAcIzUaLrnA8mY3ODtPPgp5eSNTTfyee3cwNKmIrwHx7EMqYSHHOA92eDt-AZxfYSPMR4wRzCQ/s4160/IMG_20220802_170836740.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjBtaVWIYQaFAhT6ft8xz8nLwA1AaxYkKPj-UrcG7N7kSiSs32sCmclBf2RVczbrycCaeBYalo7glVmUl0mWgr5jS76ns8spOWTgnhl6YvR8ge0i6RAcIzUaLrnA8mY3ODtPPgp5eSNTTfyee3cwNKmIrwHx7EMqYSHHOA92eDt-AZxfYSPMR4wRzCQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220802_170836740.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The next morning I climbed an 11,000' pass and on the way down I stopped to have some tea and conversation with 2 Spaniards and an Austrian. The Austrian, Dani, was getting ready to ride the Silk Road Mountain Race, a 17 day, 1900km mountain bike race through Kyrgyzstan. Because of my light set up, people have been asking if I'm racing, I must look better than I feel! Many racers are riding through the mountains right now to try and acclimatize before the race. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaBfXuxnwiqsulXW0i1jPR7hsB5xxv1s8hQWCWMOrIceuRtXo-TWkkYvGTNFg2WJL6b3z6rX7ka-axaFKQnOau1RnAoX32qYVTm0BpQpSW80vpCEFUX1zuKRj7Dw6aqJklNCcvTqbEE3bsyAviMDgl4T7S44irTKnqg5Emikrnu5toybFEbZqOlJXudg/s4160/IMG_20220803_123902689_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaBfXuxnwiqsulXW0i1jPR7hsB5xxv1s8hQWCWMOrIceuRtXo-TWkkYvGTNFg2WJL6b3z6rX7ka-axaFKQnOau1RnAoX32qYVTm0BpQpSW80vpCEFUX1zuKRj7Dw6aqJklNCcvTqbEE3bsyAviMDgl4T7S44irTKnqg5Emikrnu5toybFEbZqOlJXudg/w640-h480/IMG_20220803_123902689_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNQOoexcjU4yHT5pKNhGO0KUgyx6MX9ztaSKC-ejSXj8kO58ZBTdyaLRBY5lJxYlEdcxZ2OwdzGpVqkenvgpXdGGWuqCIzQCwXZqz7LhiRNMolEDsjnmkgbIVezHvEueq2cTmkTCkxctM3ehAMHihNXbwEy1jMx5-Vss0qvL0a3bsJIP6HjQPhUS9rQ/s4160/IMG_20220803_123715004.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNQOoexcjU4yHT5pKNhGO0KUgyx6MX9ztaSKC-ejSXj8kO58ZBTdyaLRBY5lJxYlEdcxZ2OwdzGpVqkenvgpXdGGWuqCIzQCwXZqz7LhiRNMolEDsjnmkgbIVezHvEueq2cTmkTCkxctM3ehAMHihNXbwEy1jMx5-Vss0qvL0a3bsJIP6HjQPhUS9rQ/s320/IMG_20220803_123715004.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />The two of us rode down to Tash Rabat, a 15th century caravanasi built into the hillside of a high mountain valley. It's much bigger on the inside than it looks. With rooms and passageways leaving of the main corridor. <p></p><p>After a lunch of soup and butter, we headed back to the main road where Dani headed back up the mountain pass that she had just descended and I turned east to Naryn.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jrMd7C_XItEBqc-Gcy8frdplG4i-Ilu4T2xNsK3mkv0wNtj6aGxWjuh6jFFZh5-mIVuvHfoSbBZ7YyiNo7Li7Ba05vWfzI8amI5v4LVBMvmr3BglNt74SAPlnMmEIPDL1N1mEEzbb2wc3u9ZGuZ0cF_brWpUNWUaZF78U5Rxbn1n5MUSq7WrjxTReg/s4160/IMG_20220803_164655023.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jrMd7C_XItEBqc-Gcy8frdplG4i-Ilu4T2xNsK3mkv0wNtj6aGxWjuh6jFFZh5-mIVuvHfoSbBZ7YyiNo7Li7Ba05vWfzI8amI5v4LVBMvmr3BglNt74SAPlnMmEIPDL1N1mEEzbb2wc3u9ZGuZ0cF_brWpUNWUaZF78U5Rxbn1n5MUSq7WrjxTReg/w640-h480/IMG_20220803_164655023.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEV-Fpzsnv3ZsyZNOB04sWy53lLo6rYHvTunmNnG7Rerh-Nl0O18PDnpDL8Vj5NreYrmYRwBMMU5YhW1pZp3Csign9L0mxUrFaTL9nQZxzAhbttGB9Y6yT7bQ8L9T9EG6kC4z7DahXjJLRpwI1LvwAFUo7wEgsBm8G9scyVZHiqeNe7mXEHNj0RrKldw/s4160/IMG_20220803_171756071.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEV-Fpzsnv3ZsyZNOB04sWy53lLo6rYHvTunmNnG7Rerh-Nl0O18PDnpDL8Vj5NreYrmYRwBMMU5YhW1pZp3Csign9L0mxUrFaTL9nQZxzAhbttGB9Y6yT7bQ8L9T9EG6kC4z7DahXjJLRpwI1LvwAFUo7wEgsBm8G9scyVZHiqeNe7mXEHNj0RrKldw/w640-h480/IMG_20220803_171756071.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p> A beautiful gentle descent on pavement along the base of a glaciated range, past beehives and small towns. I rode until my sit bones became to painful to sit on anymore and called it a day.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq554sN78BshSTq0LUAdu-Kqrp-D0YHxV2URUOVvNahyCvN6Od4BCw6tQZA0G00ps7AGUKKyIGpO_lnLQdAZ3O8KHCTSOI6YU9h3f9rGXEjy3pUyk3W8RVcc4bgzEGe3yAlmevku_1XWch1BU48HB-q1aNmHZJac7XSUswW1UnqJL-FaPMwhf3ssSazQ/s4160/IMG_20220803_200143788_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq554sN78BshSTq0LUAdu-Kqrp-D0YHxV2URUOVvNahyCvN6Od4BCw6tQZA0G00ps7AGUKKyIGpO_lnLQdAZ3O8KHCTSOI6YU9h3f9rGXEjy3pUyk3W8RVcc4bgzEGe3yAlmevku_1XWch1BU48HB-q1aNmHZJac7XSUswW1UnqJL-FaPMwhf3ssSazQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220803_200143788_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Next morning I had a short ride on still sore sit bones into Naryn where I found a guest house, a shower, a real restaurant, and a latte! <p></p><p>On the way, I took a "back road" really just a cow trail. I met a man on horseback who asked where I was going. When I told him Naryn, he asked me if I had a map. Sometimes this trip is just navigation by general direction but so far it's all worked out! </p><p>So far I've gone about 375 miles on mostly dirt roads and trails. The next section takes me deeper into the mountains and to my highest pass yet. Time to get my bike pushing muscles ready again!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyHDYuu2F9MMGJI1sh7WM7JtS8NKa-0U7wTIlYlSlYiH4a4-Qi09wpD1-FZKBnZWm5cumD0FLXl9Qntb5-rUQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-88119379476645121532022-08-03T01:51:00.000-07:002022-08-25T19:10:56.966-07:00Onwards to Arabel! #6<p> 9 Aug 2022</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmt0zClHRvE4Ud3xl_hSazkeLoiB1ZZvmUg7AfIdehRDjCXkDdmco_LVCeRTFV-6dQPO3Q_ki98ls1g3VjfVk1Q9RPsaWVxZ-RuGe3h93Mv7SyI6JKIq10xgFt65-D28NV7FZK3SVEhQbmSc_6I5XqYeNOJJS8-tcRnD1fyDcsFM6j1sk3G3e7ZkjogA/s4160/IMG_20220804_150633887.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmt0zClHRvE4Ud3xl_hSazkeLoiB1ZZvmUg7AfIdehRDjCXkDdmco_LVCeRTFV-6dQPO3Q_ki98ls1g3VjfVk1Q9RPsaWVxZ-RuGe3h93Mv7SyI6JKIq10xgFt65-D28NV7FZK3SVEhQbmSc_6I5XqYeNOJJS8-tcRnD1fyDcsFM6j1sk3G3e7ZkjogA/s320/IMG_20220804_150633887.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>After a night in Naryn where I had a fantastic meal, a magically decorated room, and even better, real coffee! I was ready to grind my way into the mountains once more. With dark clouds coming up behind me, I decided to stop at a yurt camp for tea. <p></p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsm-zK9dhB0zY3WTB_M23nZa579JoCiGhktL3IbxPV4PgxcAira_vAEP82KASlS5RwzNUhO5Bzg1fd3hWE6t1QYl1Y_o1mOTPA8lr5Kdv-sM2Dq9xSWKUwu8PNCif0MA6oJlKYkloCvKSaa-E0wE8fjxAMQQZsQPr7jJ6jvti9RDbYhe2UXWJVLzcJQQ/s2592/IMG_20220805_133909409_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="2592" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsm-zK9dhB0zY3WTB_M23nZa579JoCiGhktL3IbxPV4PgxcAira_vAEP82KASlS5RwzNUhO5Bzg1fd3hWE6t1QYl1Y_o1mOTPA8lr5Kdv-sM2Dq9xSWKUwu8PNCif0MA6oJlKYkloCvKSaa-E0wE8fjxAMQQZsQPr7jJ6jvti9RDbYhe2UXWJVLzcJQQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220805_133909409_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgYbLQmXLMDOef9vOIG8sAMXbYrVi9b3G46N5vQ5WfyUZk4ASKwW5tBPnyV-aZzYmfsqkKI07JbFJkjNlENpNVt3dMzwFbS6H6T96MEjyNdYSsYK6QIAysCympjw5iTQeKnzQ2AOlwjWPJzx7pCNMOS9m_z6mJKo7t92-VIR679F1ifE0E0FoLSNsRQ/s4160/IMG_20220805_150300936_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgYbLQmXLMDOef9vOIG8sAMXbYrVi9b3G46N5vQ5WfyUZk4ASKwW5tBPnyV-aZzYmfsqkKI07JbFJkjNlENpNVt3dMzwFbS6H6T96MEjyNdYSsYK6QIAysCympjw5iTQeKnzQ2AOlwjWPJzx7pCNMOS9m_z6mJKo7t92-VIR679F1ifE0E0FoLSNsRQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220805_150300936_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Tea of course involves cup after cup of tea, but always you are strongly encouraged to eat bread, salad, yogurt, potatoes, gristly meat, melon, hold wiggly babies, and stay the night. With the weather clearing up I managed to extract myself and continue on my way.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi9VeWK444aog9AV73rb6O6fXXxKwIvMrX49kHmrXYg5wZr4k5XfXR3M5mWf6_tvJHjlTKjl7q7rw_af6MXrGWyRFu1C-PSx7ZZQuK_J7tQdmHHV4HjbTlVRBTDRstEb0LEIjWC4GXptZGrvuyToY7NH50bjasfQrMOwvG38ljJw9frXZiyylmPtKIww/s4160/IMG_20220806_181207054.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi9VeWK444aog9AV73rb6O6fXXxKwIvMrX49kHmrXYg5wZr4k5XfXR3M5mWf6_tvJHjlTKjl7q7rw_af6MXrGWyRFu1C-PSx7ZZQuK_J7tQdmHHV4HjbTlVRBTDRstEb0LEIjWC4GXptZGrvuyToY7NH50bjasfQrMOwvG38ljJw9frXZiyylmPtKIww/s320/IMG_20220806_181207054.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>With the biking relatively easy, I decided to make a detour and head up the turn off towards Tosor Pass. 6 miles up the road are the Jily-Su hot springs. After being invited in for tea, an hour and a half later I was was able to use the springs. In a little hut, the water is hotter than bearable, so instead of the nice soothing soak I was hoping for, I poured dipper after dipper full of scalding hot water over my body and emerged bright red and much better smelling.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPfK2uEolawKz3tC2OmL0gNPb-MbnJnXUtfSEX8aEdLmsaFPoiMvs1KoRhZ8KegaVfpUpYjEKE_hcAanhv4IpE4W3Yly5I1lMS_uNaw-zigEnQ74DWR7ANtnQTw07Wv7CmNFconwu1_dYjVepHYw0ZCek4ueKCobujuYzyobgtjI2BK_zzXghuWgnsAw/s4160/IMG_20220807_095135826.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPfK2uEolawKz3tC2OmL0gNPb-MbnJnXUtfSEX8aEdLmsaFPoiMvs1KoRhZ8KegaVfpUpYjEKE_hcAanhv4IpE4W3Yly5I1lMS_uNaw-zigEnQ74DWR7ANtnQTw07Wv7CmNFconwu1_dYjVepHYw0ZCek4ueKCobujuYzyobgtjI2BK_zzXghuWgnsAw/w640-h480/IMG_20220807_095135826.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5cuUfEqbZk17bkyge2H8DkvkZK_vNPIZP0HylCJe8_yWx_WRNoUA3cHZ_ZOcgS1kHX-VzgqrnWca3J1ZoaFjCQZdQTPtEFfAQD_u1VtXmO2-A7jjZm4rioeJN3qSASgmVPnA2xkWNhK9e2taAcWmwp9r30tedDCS8jfMYgnmGODg9vKzqtNq3tkOQBQ/s3986/IMG_20220807_093104769_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2901" data-original-width="3986" height="466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5cuUfEqbZk17bkyge2H8DkvkZK_vNPIZP0HylCJe8_yWx_WRNoUA3cHZ_ZOcgS1kHX-VzgqrnWca3J1ZoaFjCQZdQTPtEFfAQD_u1VtXmO2-A7jjZm4rioeJN3qSASgmVPnA2xkWNhK9e2taAcWmwp9r30tedDCS8jfMYgnmGODg9vKzqtNq3tkOQBQ/w640-h466/IMG_20220807_093104769_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />I camped next to the springs and in the morning hiked up 3 miles to Teshuk Lake. Surrounded by high snowy peaks, it was just me and some horses to enjoy the views. Back to my camp, I packed up and cycled farther up the valley until my legs said stop.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcZF3SkYF7n1psUWzh0EnC_S-Sb32gPlmsNPGPBXGDrVYLW_H2pFWJH-N9FSpOtW8pqSBvrL8L9cuYrE_Hq3bjAudZLbK-jR9KB4aAHypiOgsHi4N_FxmMtMHOhBcU-LtRTU1d2xM7KRjZb_sqU5A0HGefbPYto90wBU8ZZNTMplzmnQGTq7qa6dF1gQ/s3810/IMG_20220808_062203018_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2858" data-original-width="3810" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcZF3SkYF7n1psUWzh0EnC_S-Sb32gPlmsNPGPBXGDrVYLW_H2pFWJH-N9FSpOtW8pqSBvrL8L9cuYrE_Hq3bjAudZLbK-jR9KB4aAHypiOgsHi4N_FxmMtMHOhBcU-LtRTU1d2xM7KRjZb_sqU5A0HGefbPYto90wBU8ZZNTMplzmnQGTq7qa6dF1gQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220808_062203018_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhimxl5Dfv8hVF-d8WFKkEZghYdHQYYRuKMYr93_qsnFCYKIk3NNZaW0GDgPT84zECXIo3jeA3aW-49kjJOE7_SLrqnqy3latNzZ6tb18V1g7koOB5gtc6t9Uhjlg5lNAbQGubdaHJk8j9rk3SvUE0AZccXedwuX2K69PL765Vn6sZA_tWgsUaWZ2lxMw/s4160/IMG_20220807_145601848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhimxl5Dfv8hVF-d8WFKkEZghYdHQYYRuKMYr93_qsnFCYKIk3NNZaW0GDgPT84zECXIo3jeA3aW-49kjJOE7_SLrqnqy3latNzZ6tb18V1g7koOB5gtc6t9Uhjlg5lNAbQGubdaHJk8j9rk3SvUE0AZccXedwuX2K69PL765Vn6sZA_tWgsUaWZ2lxMw/w640-h480/IMG_20220807_145601848.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Sometimes travel is amazing views, kind hearted locals, and experiences that make your heart sing. Other times it's being woken up in the middle of the night by wind slamming into your tent, rain driving itself through the rain fly to soak your things, finding out you've started your period two weeks early, and having diarrhea all at once. Fun night.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5R8qkLnvKuz_KBjs73ZJyFb9XUH6Sr2XpmbUUCJVqvF4yLOaz2Zpd4hQM_gbQQoR3jGmP05ccBcAC7qntRMiizlz9NMRCHZdWKILTkEgAy0zgzgl3Mei4S0NCxc-pMIV1-27DcALat-TiOgu4oC3orH7hzUEcq_oAJdh_ch4Vge16JZqQSvdXusiFOQ/s4160/IMG_20220808_085940462_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5R8qkLnvKuz_KBjs73ZJyFb9XUH6Sr2XpmbUUCJVqvF4yLOaz2Zpd4hQM_gbQQoR3jGmP05ccBcAC7qntRMiizlz9NMRCHZdWKILTkEgAy0zgzgl3Mei4S0NCxc-pMIV1-27DcALat-TiOgu4oC3orH7hzUEcq_oAJdh_ch4Vge16JZqQSvdXusiFOQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220808_085940462_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />The morning light was gorgeous, so even with a rough night I found it hard to be grumpy. I vowed to just take it slow as I set of with gurgly stomach and a 12,600' pass to climb. Fortunately the Burkhan Valley is a pleasant gradual climb. There are many creek crossings, but most you can ride right through. At the deepest one, only about one high, a shepherd came over on his horse and made sure I made it across safely before heading off to his sheep.<p></p><p>Soon I found myself at the bottom of the pass. 11 switchbacks later I reached the top and was rewarded with views so spectacular it seemed like cheating to be able get there via bicycle. The Arabel plateau is massive, full of little alpine lakes, and all above 12,500'. I was called over to join a shepherd for some sweet tea and cucumbers. He needed a knife to cut the cucumbers so I pulled mine out. He was so tickled with it that I gave it to him and then he of course insisted I stay at his yurt. Saying my goodbyes I headed north to the edge of the plateau.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguW_6MZnNcJ6Nm7C1C34alvsE_dPFYDZrakMI95KpTRmLU4IBwH8szAc9ZsEMPCSJC9pRfFB9j8H3vzpfStQXFyj_OHWQnOtpD8k9aOt8E8Oh0PtJRaP_tfiQkUTUIMC90YcdpknqNKjvUJg8gOXzdORcJnQ1PsrdDFuMFpwnLtbTz2UhypgoQAheDTA/s4160/IMG_20220808_133630013_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguW_6MZnNcJ6Nm7C1C34alvsE_dPFYDZrakMI95KpTRmLU4IBwH8szAc9ZsEMPCSJC9pRfFB9j8H3vzpfStQXFyj_OHWQnOtpD8k9aOt8E8Oh0PtJRaP_tfiQkUTUIMC90YcdpknqNKjvUJg8gOXzdORcJnQ1PsrdDFuMFpwnLtbTz2UhypgoQAheDTA/w640-h480/IMG_20220808_133630013_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsAKYWfNjMzu2ACXMc6Xi5sYpRw3t0JuTbQc5SLRitmhn0npKyzMEmwHGhq-GjK1ExyPQna9tH9vwAN04cEcto4q3MKzmD26Eu5ergAltiCsXe5grcUYPyc64SW--kelcos2TIu9Q0Poq8kUeK_aCNm4DYHJE7IITVEommLUsJAHDN90GMy3sZX3JRcw/s4160/IMG_20220808_152135546.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsAKYWfNjMzu2ACXMc6Xi5sYpRw3t0JuTbQc5SLRitmhn0npKyzMEmwHGhq-GjK1ExyPQna9tH9vwAN04cEcto4q3MKzmD26Eu5ergAltiCsXe5grcUYPyc64SW--kelcos2TIu9Q0Poq8kUeK_aCNm4DYHJE7IITVEommLUsJAHDN90GMy3sZX3JRcw/w640-h480/IMG_20220808_152135546.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmag0KDR1SNR2Q7vstQGiQTlfee2Icpm9PlvnBZoUvR-UJgtbaXAKrAZVnP7Wr0Voqqs3vHwOMTsj1yLf_oUJ_p1zaF4kovLLT8PQ0nAC8cjQQmttWFFsKz9qUKEUBH3etaxl5QK99tII3K4zgY57YEY8wvmi_Mu6xjKmNYeQc0udhHz-8lldJx1gLw/s4160/IMG_20220808_173343351.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmag0KDR1SNR2Q7vstQGiQTlfee2Icpm9PlvnBZoUvR-UJgtbaXAKrAZVnP7Wr0Voqqs3vHwOMTsj1yLf_oUJ_p1zaF4kovLLT8PQ0nAC8cjQQmttWFFsKz9qUKEUBH3etaxl5QK99tII3K4zgY57YEY8wvmi_Mu6xjKmNYeQc0udhHz-8lldJx1gLw/s320/IMG_20220808_173343351.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />It does feel like you are tipping off the edge of the earth when the road starts to drop. Unfortunately my rear brake had completely stopped working (this had already made for some exciting and terrifying times) and my front brake barely functioning. Only 30 miles down to lake Issy-Kul, I figured I could walk my bike down 7'000' of switchbacks.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_D7VkEw-Fe7C0MdPnDjSSCgqwXFYN6T_rg30YNJocFUSImj0XfZ1c3xZltZ_AeK_MwyXcQJed3Aeuqcpv3mfLsFvua8cpFIfQFdpuUpICZ8rVvvOYDdG0bNUvRu16KLpiamJGC9_yIMLj90WkGjFHwOsRBqFaB0w_gNb_agiH8dRVdn4VpBXnU1D8pA/s2592/IMG_20220808_182021204.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="1944" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_D7VkEw-Fe7C0MdPnDjSSCgqwXFYN6T_rg30YNJocFUSImj0XfZ1c3xZltZ_AeK_MwyXcQJed3Aeuqcpv3mfLsFvua8cpFIfQFdpuUpICZ8rVvvOYDdG0bNUvRu16KLpiamJGC9_yIMLj90WkGjFHwOsRBqFaB0w_gNb_agiH8dRVdn4VpBXnU1D8pA/s320/IMG_20220808_182021204.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>I made it 3500' down when a semi truck driver from the mine stopped to pick me up. He threw my bike in the back and had me wear his safety orange coat, white hard hat, and sunglasses to drive through all the check points. Once at the lake, he unloaded my bike and I pedaled the nice flat road into Tamga to find a guest house for the night. Lucky for me I found a place with an amazing garden and fantastic meals.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNOgK8E1NYlcSVi2niFa-k5Ai5Kq-K-K8DNVWxQ9h2rPzGieYVJ5DM6KFODl8PI2cIkQeEqlzmX0htLPW4vdxWTHE_DaVXTH1i2OrjjCpz9Lrkr9KyucPOXtnYvA6BqhFQOsxm-ZfAfVLHIZDCD8qwp48zs5EFKTpqBjUXOmBXPBdwUY8dBl2KeVNDWw/s4160/IMG_20220809_062116034.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNOgK8E1NYlcSVi2niFa-k5Ai5Kq-K-K8DNVWxQ9h2rPzGieYVJ5DM6KFODl8PI2cIkQeEqlzmX0htLPW4vdxWTHE_DaVXTH1i2OrjjCpz9Lrkr9KyucPOXtnYvA6BqhFQOsxm-ZfAfVLHIZDCD8qwp48zs5EFKTpqBjUXOmBXPBdwUY8dBl2KeVNDWw/w640-h480/IMG_20220809_062116034.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dy0SEt_KBbImMIMvILC8i10B95EMaQnQRPm4M5zNnsLJ092hNp0DRYSqO10yJPw4_NM01QIBClQSAKWeh0J7g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxbTMzvRmxLqgofnx2wmaGRhw1OyrFiMcitoqhay4G4ZpHMGbM0HIEQqa1fnnFTOzF_fS7bd8S9c7qm4r8Axw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-52600697445529428302022-08-02T03:00:00.000-07:002022-08-25T19:10:56.966-07:00I Switch to Pokey Old Tractor Speed. #7<p> 15 August </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKx1bKydaear0cxFnGMLSzEHUn01h4Lds_8GhFYdXrzCdjVKtattP8Z4eiJOGbSM31MOAqrt9pnw5LndjOolk3P51NRXf3kM7_wP2cpUiXRbbdypdQazZ5TAASnxL3eCXfs6RxWTd64QKKPIoKNiSQrPdPsRhyIoKHQReY3t5a4iUgKwjGRK42HU1HOg/s4160/IMG_20220810_101310408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKx1bKydaear0cxFnGMLSzEHUn01h4Lds_8GhFYdXrzCdjVKtattP8Z4eiJOGbSM31MOAqrt9pnw5LndjOolk3P51NRXf3kM7_wP2cpUiXRbbdypdQazZ5TAASnxL3eCXfs6RxWTd64QKKPIoKNiSQrPdPsRhyIoKHQReY3t5a4iUgKwjGRK42HU1HOg/w640-h480/IMG_20220810_101310408.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />After Tamga, I feel ready to conquer the world again, very, very slowly. The road along the south shore of lake Issy-Kul, the second largest alpine lake in the world, is flat and lined with ripe apricot trees. High mountains give a dramatic backstop to the lake and grassy spots along the Lakeshore make it easy to stop for a break.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWF6U8lij4e1O7UA3jMUAVq4B9VKNQz8eVS2j1fwDAClvADUIpohF0rYgGT_Pyl_Qlh5uTrjY85eX1xiBwuFq_prpHwNX4GFYWjz_HNaVUY6jUIpW57knOGklXoECYvmLWjKZmlbakAtFikCO2hJNbW_iTbXlkvgI838FtVYgd-sMBceKFGLwPDbmIA/s4160/IMG_20220810_121534719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWF6U8lij4e1O7UA3jMUAVq4B9VKNQz8eVS2j1fwDAClvADUIpohF0rYgGT_Pyl_Qlh5uTrjY85eX1xiBwuFq_prpHwNX4GFYWjz_HNaVUY6jUIpW57knOGklXoECYvmLWjKZmlbakAtFikCO2hJNbW_iTbXlkvgI838FtVYgd-sMBceKFGLwPDbmIA/w640-h480/IMG_20220810_121534719.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> I end up cycling a short day and staying at a guesthouse above a grocery store. The owners insist I join them for dinner and so my mostly recovered intestines are treated to a meal of fried fish, apricots, and peaches. The mother knew a little English and dinner conversation kept me giggling into my tea and her son shaking his head, "I love you Elizabeth! I love you fish! I love you coffee! I love you, love you, love you cigarette!!"<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTt2FDiEV-GOEMEtliOfhGASywlC_zzyf7uPUE7jF_ByJLtzhrOUKKmMStlAuRqka_gN_pj6IpbRdz2S56jkbAjp8J65ENr6-G3NfPiNthyAH1-q8GMgFzcVnxPHJTaP2SzF8ZV96afj6-5yNggRXfdRkhHNrXTvJa1yqYWGxFROkp6qoCzzz-FD_LAg/s4160/IMG_20220811_103011668_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTt2FDiEV-GOEMEtliOfhGASywlC_zzyf7uPUE7jF_ByJLtzhrOUKKmMStlAuRqka_gN_pj6IpbRdz2S56jkbAjp8J65ENr6-G3NfPiNthyAH1-q8GMgFzcVnxPHJTaP2SzF8ZV96afj6-5yNggRXfdRkhHNrXTvJa1yqYWGxFROkp6qoCzzz-FD_LAg/w640-h480/IMG_20220811_103011668_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2iHvYLA-X3Ba8xU3ra_MA0IVdMPZZM8IninQIgUQArQYSBPl2iTsfqqdvmZgNyIFDukjliJOL9VRQ76bkn1386pd44B1OvvsNwze6WnP_6dKQ6mbBIPamxFRcROcNkXlpky7SIaqh7WcnlKnESUPYA1qPHR8vPUUJ4PpM77W7ys5YVh17c8uyaJ7fcA/s4160/IMG_20220811_111602880_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2iHvYLA-X3Ba8xU3ra_MA0IVdMPZZM8IninQIgUQArQYSBPl2iTsfqqdvmZgNyIFDukjliJOL9VRQ76bkn1386pd44B1OvvsNwze6WnP_6dKQ6mbBIPamxFRcROcNkXlpky7SIaqh7WcnlKnESUPYA1qPHR8vPUUJ4PpM77W7ys5YVh17c8uyaJ7fcA/w640-h480/IMG_20220811_111602880_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-GIEjVccuzgyStNoui3bBaCW5sWEr3KDaPbYS8SWCo_Q02EJtplO3CRUcS3NQWaeP7wT5pK0Vt-ldZ4NG8wnQDgfz5krMyVJCzy1hKhOBzXWZOmKg0wA7spCzhXkT2-E2KzbrDSUpi-cY6RHpNmvqAEbD0SCnBdCLYCoZCX4HJDra2k0h97awO88tXA/s4160/IMG_20220811_112258789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-GIEjVccuzgyStNoui3bBaCW5sWEr3KDaPbYS8SWCo_Q02EJtplO3CRUcS3NQWaeP7wT5pK0Vt-ldZ4NG8wnQDgfz5krMyVJCzy1hKhOBzXWZOmKg0wA7spCzhXkT2-E2KzbrDSUpi-cY6RHpNmvqAEbD0SCnBdCLYCoZCX4HJDra2k0h97awO88tXA/s320/IMG_20220811_112258789.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />The next morning I decided to add a side trip up a canyon to Jeti-Oguz to see the "Broken Heart" and "7 Bulls" rocks. The canyon was of course stunning and has a sanatorium in the town. The photos advertising the spa made it look like a terrifying experience with enemas and electroshock therapy, so I lunched alongside the river instead. <p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWDVf_sLTxpzhjP_HV4TvU9eums8KwsJdyzYgW2LoRmEQOytbkFSUqJ1ylhBGsnt4_tehRhXgPwCkhqCnPoJYosqP4EFQJ44306eW7gqlws5R0pMfNYgg1Bmbp9hvH5LFH-oqhYFdjE9WYvGKouU35n4aIqy1caAGMC8qtQ49Ega9v1v-bu-GzQ10Spg/s4160/IMG_20220811_124331596_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWDVf_sLTxpzhjP_HV4TvU9eums8KwsJdyzYgW2LoRmEQOytbkFSUqJ1ylhBGsnt4_tehRhXgPwCkhqCnPoJYosqP4EFQJ44306eW7gqlws5R0pMfNYgg1Bmbp9hvH5LFH-oqhYFdjE9WYvGKouU35n4aIqy1caAGMC8qtQ49Ega9v1v-bu-GzQ10Spg/s320/IMG_20220811_124331596_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Finally to Karakol, my final cycling goal. I found the perfect hotel complete with a dragon side entrance and started switching my mindset to hiking. First, I found a rental company in town that wanted to buy my bicycle, even with no brakes. My bike, though great for this trip, was <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPADAna4Q033cMsJ-uOrTXqbU1ETvpiRDYdxn1q0fEnixFL_0FqRAc7I22IsX7P_M56FR6zfOsMPuPTT-p30ZGHKKpx4Wmv1ytYbCPuBQekRMcPmUer-HpB2KZKiOnwkNDlzP7uq1DG71EXfLxlhjP14Q00di6tYZM5-duLXZugijBUvyhPtNysb3ctA/s4160/IMG_20220811_185103075_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPADAna4Q033cMsJ-uOrTXqbU1ETvpiRDYdxn1q0fEnixFL_0FqRAc7I22IsX7P_M56FR6zfOsMPuPTT-p30ZGHKKpx4Wmv1ytYbCPuBQekRMcPmUer-HpB2KZKiOnwkNDlzP7uq1DG71EXfLxlhjP14Q00di6tYZM5-duLXZugijBUvyhPtNysb3ctA/s320/IMG_20220811_185103075_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />never going home with me. Four years ago a bike mechanic told me I should give it to a high schooler that was thinking about trying mountain biking, and it hasn't increased in value since then. The rental company was thrilled to have an American made bike and had the ability to fix it, I was thrilled to not have to deal with the logistics of getting the bike back to the capital in a passenger packed mini van, and my bike was thrilled to live out the rest of it's days in the Kyrgyz mountains.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgRpS4JO3Ekpxo2HDpQDQn9fiXEeTAaxT5p-E8XTn3xeqAfP6ijVZf5JmFOGpIwnNj93pS0eXrr4sqSf4PXqqfxHB_9Vtvjs5EJC2m0Hsbsft9QypBZ8G02jOhzYXfXXihSwGOMEizkS7Jm4zIT1KSCmnrhjn2gBktNifyqlA22QA8gNR2H60xN2uuYg/s4160/IMG_20220812_151824489_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgRpS4JO3Ekpxo2HDpQDQn9fiXEeTAaxT5p-E8XTn3xeqAfP6ijVZf5JmFOGpIwnNj93pS0eXrr4sqSf4PXqqfxHB_9Vtvjs5EJC2m0Hsbsft9QypBZ8G02jOhzYXfXXihSwGOMEizkS7Jm4zIT1KSCmnrhjn2gBktNifyqlA22QA8gNR2H60xN2uuYg/s320/IMG_20220812_151824489_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>I strapped my tent and handlebar bar bag to my little backpack and set off into the Tien Shan mountains for 4 days. The main draw is the beautiful Ak-Suu lake. So I made my way up horse filled valleys, past yurt camps, and raging rivers to the lake. Blue, green, and above 12,000', the lake is well worth a visit, though very popular with tourists and locals alike.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXYOoP9MnBP5SFnzQRiyxSRR9HTBgaJP9CjZCOjneE5SAcR_Eb6nFPTBet7WqXkvgkDpmE8qguhy6B0w2vkdpukYGqcKv1F1t6D58KfUNQKrYbWLx0udoG-uQvDqX9s8_TCXQW4r9zlXzaWH57JB9VTl6pxsvZQv8Sprhg6yflu-22JPq9DrM1_VPm6A/s4160/IMG_20220812_160418703_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXYOoP9MnBP5SFnzQRiyxSRR9HTBgaJP9CjZCOjneE5SAcR_Eb6nFPTBet7WqXkvgkDpmE8qguhy6B0w2vkdpukYGqcKv1F1t6D58KfUNQKrYbWLx0udoG-uQvDqX9s8_TCXQW4r9zlXzaWH57JB9VTl6pxsvZQv8Sprhg6yflu-22JPq9DrM1_VPm6A/w640-h480/IMG_20220812_160418703_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnuMVS_ujU3GlOZTGqf8TbX8NPEHI0DT2cE8-y3Wgxa7mC3-S-q2uAAbqW-Luo1S_7V1r1WKOZHAZHrm7LK6uFLjG-UrCLrZJ76m5zifr2CG4tJE866O6g_VFWDqbruXXB488T_f5j1up1phjlIAlu8wAMsh7pVaWlCaRGEEjQCjCrho_9cyc5fHyHKQ/s4160/IMG_20220813_123634503_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnuMVS_ujU3GlOZTGqf8TbX8NPEHI0DT2cE8-y3Wgxa7mC3-S-q2uAAbqW-Luo1S_7V1r1WKOZHAZHrm7LK6uFLjG-UrCLrZJ76m5zifr2CG4tJE866O6g_VFWDqbruXXB488T_f5j1up1phjlIAlu8wAMsh7pVaWlCaRGEEjQCjCrho_9cyc5fHyHKQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220813_123634503_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsgbtCvKGRLMjFu-w6Egf7Qd9-Z3GVKgVpwM2QLch9PF3FIcWpDmXIet4Y1s__vEFUf_3arzP8CEpbJDWR1u4sKnm8HrnNkTYE_FxmulmbbunVPNbZyJ1xMJ1XCduZpZ8oRQgAxa0Lgve8aj8BPvX9jQ9ZRnEx-Gcvx3_WINEkU9HxOMyRQJLAJhYiwA/s4160/IMG_20220813_094428280_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsgbtCvKGRLMjFu-w6Egf7Qd9-Z3GVKgVpwM2QLch9PF3FIcWpDmXIet4Y1s__vEFUf_3arzP8CEpbJDWR1u4sKnm8HrnNkTYE_FxmulmbbunVPNbZyJ1xMJ1XCduZpZ8oRQgAxa0Lgve8aj8BPvX9jQ9ZRnEx-Gcvx3_WINEkU9HxOMyRQJLAJhYiwA/w640-h480/IMG_20220813_094428280_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib05v9fBs3s6uw0rxyHzskG4dB2SbpxAJUYpTRWb9F1X6zNnGwfryxSwkwW0b_tRhp4JEwHTVi8uUo5cb8hwQl-imdAi6VQ3zB6PYC2mxgOcNKbvO1Wb0hK0AClGU-TFRPptP07sdBQUgOg8QGL6XFhHVX-FXjzJsraa4fTcCymqCvcI_voUzGZtIH7A/s4160/IMG_20220813_122106989_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib05v9fBs3s6uw0rxyHzskG4dB2SbpxAJUYpTRWb9F1X6zNnGwfryxSwkwW0b_tRhp4JEwHTVi8uUo5cb8hwQl-imdAi6VQ3zB6PYC2mxgOcNKbvO1Wb0hK0AClGU-TFRPptP07sdBQUgOg8QGL6XFhHVX-FXjzJsraa4fTcCymqCvcI_voUzGZtIH7A/s320/IMG_20220813_122106989_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />I had decided to make a loop hike which meant climbing the 12,900' Ak-Suu pass. I shared some chocolate and conversation about beer and politics with some wonderful Belgians at the top, and with weather closing in, I made my way down. Once at the valley floor, I asked a guest house owner if the bridge down valley was washed out. He asked me where I was going and when I told him over the mountains back to karakol, he said I should take a car back instead because I was alone, and there are bears. Now grouchy and no better informed, I went across the river where I was invited to pitch my tent, join the guesthouse guests for dinner, and yes indeed the bridge was washed out, grouchiness gone.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79xmVCqqr7dklTbjjkwNR2kOZxjQ4P3c0uCxJYiKKW3ptRHov375kdmOzsv_IZbYP4BdqLCvsFPdp1xFCQkvHvPXv1e0VC8VsW1Zud0gkKJy2ZkkRffxps3iB0bCizq6sJhvNeT2vG2-uU04bA_gtwgGc0Quywwd5UyYtnnea0lxJR8Fpbh2u9uTlHA/s4160/IMG_20220814_125730461.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79xmVCqqr7dklTbjjkwNR2kOZxjQ4P3c0uCxJYiKKW3ptRHov375kdmOzsv_IZbYP4BdqLCvsFPdp1xFCQkvHvPXv1e0VC8VsW1Zud0gkKJy2ZkkRffxps3iB0bCizq6sJhvNeT2vG2-uU04bA_gtwgGc0Quywwd5UyYtnnea0lxJR8Fpbh2u9uTlHA/w640-h480/IMG_20220814_125730461.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />The next morning, I started out on a cow trail, hoping it would lead me along the river, but instead it took me up a quiet valley, to a steep pass where i was able to look across and see my route. While there wasn't a trail, there was a way over the next ridge into my intended valley. Of course I met a shepherd who asked me if I was alone. Replying yes, I asked him if he was also alone. He stopped, blinked, then threw back his head and laughed. He asked me where I was headed and I pointed up the steep mountain side. He nodded, told me to angle my way slightly then thumped his chest, pointed to me, and gave me a thumbs up and a smile. Thrilled in his confidence, I set off. The going was endless up, but I was greeted at the top of the ridge by yellow poppies swaying in the breeze and a face full of glaciers. From the ridge I could see rolling green hanging valleys all the way down to to karakol and the lake sparkling in the distance.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnveN-iHdGUJS9cR1MdbUlEAjFFJCHWlBy5zXS1w6Ro9FouESJY3Q-5JR6WdLhSV9s77H4Cug8xJzfjBsGYBvNvyEghLVxlLP2XH1iKieuVZeLuKCDxhvFwGf58NGLpAFFrA2gQancgslFJ2yBvsD7yTMFqEigUr5BvmtR-rMjzXvMDAw6lSmvAV05oQ/s2592/IMG_20220814_125748208_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="2592" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnveN-iHdGUJS9cR1MdbUlEAjFFJCHWlBy5zXS1w6Ro9FouESJY3Q-5JR6WdLhSV9s77H4Cug8xJzfjBsGYBvNvyEghLVxlLP2XH1iKieuVZeLuKCDxhvFwGf58NGLpAFFrA2gQancgslFJ2yBvsD7yTMFqEigUr5BvmtR-rMjzXvMDAw6lSmvAV05oQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220814_125748208_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6dkrq3UZu1yePheqY2Rn7J3U2UjaICyWQ4jTPXz7yiOOEKBuOPYz16hFnMotfftRPmsbSndcCg5OYvG1hh_7WWjq_o_N0lukkNBswROGWloNBtXvpDl-4TNSNTdzAfMqovkoX8WG4KZw_wIXd_IuLN8omfaShwT02sCF-r3WsRR_b3CvNlgkJkgP0_A/s4160/IMG_20220814_141605388.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6dkrq3UZu1yePheqY2Rn7J3U2UjaICyWQ4jTPXz7yiOOEKBuOPYz16hFnMotfftRPmsbSndcCg5OYvG1hh_7WWjq_o_N0lukkNBswROGWloNBtXvpDl-4TNSNTdzAfMqovkoX8WG4KZw_wIXd_IuLN8omfaShwT02sCF-r3WsRR_b3CvNlgkJkgP0_A/w640-h480/IMG_20220814_141605388.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju1ZDbCc0aIQcPgzsoi51ichoSnV7msotLhHBTakX7n4TprEGLK15FQtCdfW2Yk23KE83bfh38cthhdzZQYuIzu0Yzu4-bPpOPA4JLJ_S0n8D4B0Av0LRDvFIVNxuqofDldyaXzHtCcflqZR9fPe4g6PoagjXxjesaWWONF-aDFZzTGUQg6Ho89JpqSg/s4160/IMG_20220814_162603153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju1ZDbCc0aIQcPgzsoi51ichoSnV7msotLhHBTakX7n4TprEGLK15FQtCdfW2Yk23KE83bfh38cthhdzZQYuIzu0Yzu4-bPpOPA4JLJ_S0n8D4B0Av0LRDvFIVNxuqofDldyaXzHtCcflqZR9fPe4g6PoagjXxjesaWWONF-aDFZzTGUQg6Ho89JpqSg/w640-h480/IMG_20220814_162603153.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc2Bf8ZzNeRRo07imxl3HnadBF24BwtYpobBBs52hEZJacsieOdhNz_00UhaAGcbLUvzqpmlSoRcmw21u0Z0LiV05vMNM2QmoKy01bI1a04j_nBq9Plm1fB5CngHGmP16ktOFrnUn2MS7RGyySFCUoKIm5mbzwoyUt3i8PcJUIwZcGwBogtkZal_0m4w/s4160/IMG_20220814_132938610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc2Bf8ZzNeRRo07imxl3HnadBF24BwtYpobBBs52hEZJacsieOdhNz_00UhaAGcbLUvzqpmlSoRcmw21u0Z0LiV05vMNM2QmoKy01bI1a04j_nBq9Plm1fB5CngHGmP16ktOFrnUn2MS7RGyySFCUoKIm5mbzwoyUt3i8PcJUIwZcGwBogtkZal_0m4w/s320/IMG_20220814_132938610.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />I just had to stay one more night up high, so I pitched my tent and spent the evening watching cows stroll past and light play on the ridges. Maybe it was because this was my last foray into the mountains, but I thought this valley was the loveliest of all of I'd been in. After a late morning spent eating the rest of my food and drinking tea, I slowly walked down the valley past karakol's biggest and best (only) ski resort. With very sore calves and a happy mindset, I wandered back to Karakol to my dragon head hotel and a much needed shower. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dztQ7wCgEkjBTX_KfHUbHoHgGuoaLi0tQq63Yxk5DW2LP1F45Y8YDPYMT9XOO90Cv5feoOWvyFkgHHiDXC2lw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-34416168365359236582022-08-01T00:12:00.000-07:002022-08-25T19:10:56.966-07:00The Best of the Bazaars! #8<p> 18 Aug 2022</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqKPPbLcP8rzPd-Dx5oLlvcPeKuBiPHqO-k7ulWkUfvhomFjrSMZV8piR4wxfhPqK59vyVQcK31-sCFKRw0TdkYNuHN8E_iS3d6izuawyDXPGHkAkTnoYFmNIbLBU6RYIHUg3he-160ZhZugzoIKEVN7tQCFjAR_zS91f162TUnxlgNNyCqB72mAT5g/s4160/IMG_20220816_095646051.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqKPPbLcP8rzPd-Dx5oLlvcPeKuBiPHqO-k7ulWkUfvhomFjrSMZV8piR4wxfhPqK59vyVQcK31-sCFKRw0TdkYNuHN8E_iS3d6izuawyDXPGHkAkTnoYFmNIbLBU6RYIHUg3he-160ZhZugzoIKEVN7tQCFjAR_zS91f162TUnxlgNNyCqB72mAT5g/w240-h320/IMG_20220816_095646051.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>The biking and the hiking finished, I have just a few days to fill. The morning started out pouring rain and after a few minutes in my highly patterned in shades of brown hotel room, I decided I needed to go for a walk. The Main Bazaar in Karakol is made of rows and stacks of shipping containers.<div><br /></div><div>Sometimes there is roofing between, and sometimes colorful fabric. I was hoping for some dry wanderings, but instead I jumped from puddle to puddle and tried to avoid waterfalls coming off the roofs. If I needed buckets, knock off athletic shoes, head scarfs, prayer books, backpacks, baby clothes, or raw meat, I would have been set. </div><div><br /></div><div>I stopped for fried noodles with meat and veggies in an alley way, excellent. Then to the supermarket to get food for the 6 hour marshrutka ride to Bishkek. I bought lobster flavored potato chips, not so excellent. I found a coffee shop, full of tourists and found two English books, I decided to leave the Danielle Steele romance novel for the next next traveler.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLDsF6EqdWQq3vXnCW9CdIeywsPrwbbhL5VRRGd-xcAblGnXrIMcvzQhqlUC6DLQtZ6xD4DA-bTNm-lR_6EK10FFKk5OayLdEYQHiPMc9IVeuHGa0wNs5PxgGff-uycf_d6TSYv-jw8T_jJ8dsCzBETOt2vqvVL9v2dX5TK9tG-8SsGVWxkwjUcY4cdQ/s4160/IMG_20220816_095936464.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLDsF6EqdWQq3vXnCW9CdIeywsPrwbbhL5VRRGd-xcAblGnXrIMcvzQhqlUC6DLQtZ6xD4DA-bTNm-lR_6EK10FFKk5OayLdEYQHiPMc9IVeuHGa0wNs5PxgGff-uycf_d6TSYv-jw8T_jJ8dsCzBETOt2vqvVL9v2dX5TK9tG-8SsGVWxkwjUcY4cdQ/s320/IMG_20220816_095936464.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p>A quick stop at the beautiful Russian Orthodox Church in town, dating back to 1895, then back to the hotel.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz3-iMfY8sjkO4V2VhEuPLdepsF6k9wlffq7sEmmXqVTgDsfPW4QTOyVl4eTEBEf456j86oj145Twc7taS26rMwFXz1iqFJ-aXOTJLA-OKk3bfifRQhetgGg1SAvpZYA-xRk2XZdxHLhwYJ1u9vx21u8Z-66t76eqzl9eNNhIrbqVZ32uO0efIa2HXaA/s4160/IMG_20220811_161616855_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz3-iMfY8sjkO4V2VhEuPLdepsF6k9wlffq7sEmmXqVTgDsfPW4QTOyVl4eTEBEf456j86oj145Twc7taS26rMwFXz1iqFJ-aXOTJLA-OKk3bfifRQhetgGg1SAvpZYA-xRk2XZdxHLhwYJ1u9vx21u8Z-66t76eqzl9eNNhIrbqVZ32uO0efIa2HXaA/w640-h480/IMG_20220811_161616855_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ5MpWAjZL1ahUyD6jgEG9wAJHIoFK48a7pO5HIpFWOdo-f8ICTp82vAxuVkQ0UHdjSzjNuMBJ29xEU4U7l5NsZGxlqBRYPObsbID1M9zhjsm9QxrpDNH9i1ZaYyNTNUkf7A-vTZMPKmze8-BhNT11B1c9tmxPVum3P0cMIxfDdFSJSEm41Vytpr18tw/s4160/IMG_20220818_084641120_HDR.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ5MpWAjZL1ahUyD6jgEG9wAJHIoFK48a7pO5HIpFWOdo-f8ICTp82vAxuVkQ0UHdjSzjNuMBJ29xEU4U7l5NsZGxlqBRYPObsbID1M9zhjsm9QxrpDNH9i1ZaYyNTNUkf7A-vTZMPKmze8-BhNT11B1c9tmxPVum3P0cMIxfDdFSJSEm41Vytpr18tw/s320/IMG_20220818_084641120_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div>The 6 hour bus ride back to Bishkek went quickly. I chatted to the lady next to me, she showed me pictures of her children, I showed her pictures of my dogs. Somehow we talked for a couple hours even though she didn't speak a word of English.</div><div><br /></div>I had a few things that I wanted to do in Bishkek, mainly go to the Osh Bazaar where you can find anything. I walked for hours, quickly through huge cuts of meat and men with bloody aprons, slowly through fragrant dried fruits and spices. It's a maze of tightly packed clothing stalls, housewares, and traditional clothing. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnNVti92P8ZP33nU-vyU5QQaeTffdu48SXlC7VarrKgHEdFiociFK2DndlF7u13US-V_MnfDNztC60KgNnpe5M0d6wPEt2RdWfd-Bu3aOSK5ayzYj0HLuESkJDNehdMs54Xq3WbKMCmn8aQrLr3cLhf78pb4GzYx36lw6S0aovp6lP9X6sFtnCLdcLw/s4160/IMG_20220818_085920236.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnNVti92P8ZP33nU-vyU5QQaeTffdu48SXlC7VarrKgHEdFiociFK2DndlF7u13US-V_MnfDNztC60KgNnpe5M0d6wPEt2RdWfd-Bu3aOSK5ayzYj0HLuESkJDNehdMs54Xq3WbKMCmn8aQrLr3cLhf78pb4GzYx36lw6S0aovp6lP9X6sFtnCLdcLw/w640-h480/IMG_20220818_085920236.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHdr2M1bkxUNciBndlWCIZdvHoHgPBRu9wvYe3JYAo0UZ_dcdOynY1FK03jsfxt-OnFRqUr9s4CLvn0Cf2xBJe9dQcNzn3RJKyZULV5p6eKHSVR0ZhE_VEaoJ3xfwqjaiArnlGQJjubnD7zobEipo4FTyXcxp8F1qBV5NAPV4UJUkX79LAq_wFSahWDQ/s4160/IMG_20220818_085822213.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHdr2M1bkxUNciBndlWCIZdvHoHgPBRu9wvYe3JYAo0UZ_dcdOynY1FK03jsfxt-OnFRqUr9s4CLvn0Cf2xBJe9dQcNzn3RJKyZULV5p6eKHSVR0ZhE_VEaoJ3xfwqjaiArnlGQJjubnD7zobEipo4FTyXcxp8F1qBV5NAPV4UJUkX79LAq_wFSahWDQ/w640-h480/IMG_20220818_085822213.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7q2oJ34BIKw92tNiiXevANrcZO8gaGT71sIvL2Q2tzUd6h6y80eO4I86j8d_HEgMu8X7yPJxNRZ-CglMamv_T8dbKRq3557tXSnIJey_0Tk7ZWhcacaipPfdQEQ97V0eZCiWQghqQlAJbTupjmLU2A6mPfrIDu5kmJiOAcPhsMhYqz-ArPgFlueA6A/s4160/IMG_20220818_085932911.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7q2oJ34BIKw92tNiiXevANrcZO8gaGT71sIvL2Q2tzUd6h6y80eO4I86j8d_HEgMu8X7yPJxNRZ-CglMamv_T8dbKRq3557tXSnIJey_0Tk7ZWhcacaipPfdQEQ97V0eZCiWQghqQlAJbTupjmLU2A6mPfrIDu5kmJiOAcPhsMhYqz-ArPgFlueA6A/w640-h480/IMG_20220818_085932911.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzP_0H3H1r6iSWWuOa7RlinM8JvjLRkbnp7ZfQiODyig48HZt2NdDMjx8KuYUTXf0mTEpHtL5q_Tt_9UVLkVkIJuqLVLOhjy0g4BgHykZTjSpucoq-oKtDu30A28ReG0r2-fqqLNuXYDLa7VCus2X_lKyp_KhgDVx1pHh65i63FBOIodp8FPkGV3Iztg/s4160/IMG_20220811_162503090_HDR.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHt0R9obKCHhtT6iRGMjrCU1SSlOmy_qLndrtyFsOr4Sw0cuEIL-rV0y6RmNVX8Gzw4zI5uMYMyEoQpi8MFyKaXPZT16E5UNzsAtJGUp_68CvWlQn2pCHFgrfdPuX-wJVgvfKpcQBth7DYeBzdrOwTIZMsE2V7YdiEQhwnz4ds1mD9tkp8YHhX9-ChiA/s4160/IMG_20220818_100927150.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHt0R9obKCHhtT6iRGMjrCU1SSlOmy_qLndrtyFsOr4Sw0cuEIL-rV0y6RmNVX8Gzw4zI5uMYMyEoQpi8MFyKaXPZT16E5UNzsAtJGUp_68CvWlQn2pCHFgrfdPuX-wJVgvfKpcQBth7DYeBzdrOwTIZMsE2V7YdiEQhwnz4ds1mD9tkp8YHhX9-ChiA/w640-h480/IMG_20220818_100927150.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I found a money exchange to convert my extra som back to dollars. In one month, with food, guesthouses, and travel, I spent just under $250, making it more cost effective to be traveling in Kyrgyzstan than to be staying at home. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO3sl1rIwRbHJ98O-Z5hzcwfpR-9erTX-DdYMcDje3M-LyW4WmSRUjVpxmXNIGTTDixljtC7ZHa7MA1_aW7DR-Vs5dyqeRamUnNBx4RpvghFiHyuo50Iz2ggbnOCknXAArpGBo7Sdmz9jEhqyBEF_wYyGMA-Wg4jljKwtvtyRqQKkVRoFehhNbdJP-2Q/s2592/IMG_20220818_123632226_HDR.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="1944" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO3sl1rIwRbHJ98O-Z5hzcwfpR-9erTX-DdYMcDje3M-LyW4WmSRUjVpxmXNIGTTDixljtC7ZHa7MA1_aW7DR-Vs5dyqeRamUnNBx4RpvghFiHyuo50Iz2ggbnOCknXAArpGBo7Sdmz9jEhqyBEF_wYyGMA-Wg4jljKwtvtyRqQKkVRoFehhNbdJP-2Q/w240-h320/IMG_20220818_123632226_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The very last thing I wanted to do was get a haircut. With some easy charades and a stylist who looked extremely bored throughout the whole process, I walked out the door with the cleanest hair I've had all trip. Back at the hotel I wrestled with my bags to get ready to leave in the morning. </div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This was the most physically challenging trip I've ever done, but worth every pedal stroke and push uphill. I'm already plotting my next bike pack adventure... As soon as I find another bike. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Kyrgyzstan, I would do it all over again in a heart beat, I will miss you!!</div></div>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-20739170105587636522019-09-29T17:08:00.000-07:002022-07-12T18:12:52.375-07:00(#1/12) Here I go again on my own11 Sept 2019<br />
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Off again, the cleanest and driest I'll be for the rest of the month!Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-16786970535021391032019-09-28T13:07:00.000-07:002022-07-12T18:17:25.232-07:00(#2/12) Beautiful Weather and Numb Buns12 Sept 2019<br />
There is something so satisfying about assembling my bike in the airport and then just riding out the front doors to start my trip.<br />
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I felt like I skimped a little on the things I packed in an effort to cut weight. Fortunately I found a light puffy coat (only mildly grubby) on the side of the road as I was riding out of Dublin. I risked life and limb to run across the narrow, shoulderless road to grab it so I was extra pleased that it turned out to be my size!<br />
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I biked 50km north to Slane to pitch my tent next to a donkey and a goat. The combo of jetlag and not biking at all this summer is making my tent seem like a feather bed. Tomorrow I'll be up to my ears in castles, scones, and ancient sites but for now it's time to get horizontal.</div>
Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-58083853883745767692019-09-27T00:50:00.000-07:002022-07-12T18:13:28.002-07:00(#3/12) Castle Seen, Whisky Found. Ah, Ireland!13 Sept 2919<br />
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I woke up next to my donkey and goat, plus about one hundred dairy cows. Little morning surprises when you camp on a working farm.<br />
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I gave my legs a took a bus south to Trim to see the impressive Yellow Tower- the remaining ruins of St Mary's, and Castle Trim which featured as the castle of York in the movie Braveheart.<br />
The castle is the oldest Anglo Norman one in Ireland, built in the mid 1100's because the Irish were getting too wild and crazy for the English liking.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxkw_mFGWJZEYX0gCunMaKNDytGcn7o1p8sVO42W3r9FojsVfM1p1nm1wbfEqRC9YarKmkvCV9jsi2_hAAfLfmPc0aQ_0EXLgzvvV00u5f3GwfhfAgF9MmaWSUl0HHUoCX8oM-4NFx2rK8/s1600/P_20190913_194939.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxkw_mFGWJZEYX0gCunMaKNDytGcn7o1p8sVO42W3r9FojsVfM1p1nm1wbfEqRC9YarKmkvCV9jsi2_hAAfLfmPc0aQ_0EXLgzvvV00u5f3GwfhfAgF9MmaWSUl0HHUoCX8oM-4NFx2rK8/w299-h640/P_20190913_194939.jpg" width="299" /></a></div>
Later that evening I went for a quick taste of whisky, it was delicious, from the Slane distillery and a jog (more about that choice of activity later) around:-) the village Slane and ended on Slane Hill topped with ruins and a 360 view of the valley. Supposedly St. Patrick built a large fire on it when he wasn't suppose to and the Slane Abby was built in commemoration.<br />
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I learned that castles were built with a sloping stone base so attackers couldn't set fire under the corner stones, crack them with heat, and undermine the entire structure, and that it is very difficult to put socks on while zipped up in a mummy sleeping bag.Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-73898191595895225122019-09-26T02:08:00.000-07:002022-07-12T18:13:40.508-07:00(#4/12 )A break from the old to visit the ancient14 Sept- Saturday<br />
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Spent yesterday at Knowth and Newgrange sites. Older than the Pyramids by 1000 years and Stonehenge by 500years.<br />
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The entrances to the mounds at Knowth line up with the autumn and spring equinoxes and the mound is 1.5 acres. The Newgrange entrances line up with winter and summer equinoxes.</div>
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These mounds hold over 50% of all the Neolithic art in western Europe. You can walk into the burial chamber at Newgrange and the passage is 19 meters long. Inside are alters and granite basins too large to fit through the stones, so the entire structure was built around them. </div>
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Time to head to the coast, sit bones protesting the bike seat, I managed to go about 50 miles to Carlingford and a beautiful camp on the beach.</div>
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<span id="goog_206246474"></span>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-66418678555951652502019-09-24T02:27:00.000-07:002022-07-12T18:13:53.606-07:00(#5/12) A soggy, boggy day15 Sept<br />
With a forecast of rain, I was eager to make some miles. However, when there are so many things to look at, multiple stops are inevitable. I took an out and back detour of Carlingford, a medieval village with a lot of great cafes. Properly fueled, I hopped the ferry to northern Ireland.<br />
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Just across the Lough was a beautiful little castle, I though I would just cycle up to it for a better look. The only people there were the keeper and an archeologist. My quick stop turned into over an hour of crawling up, over, and around Green Castle with the archeologist where I learned that this was a vastly important place in the 14th century.</div>
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He pointed out histories of every evolving use of the castle, we slid thru narrow passage ways to see the adjacent farm and how the owner's house is 3 feet thick, meaning one side is the original castle wall from 1350. We got all excited and nerdy about history and I stumped him by asking if there were any true Irish castles or if they were all Anglo Norman. He stopped in his tracks in order to ponder a little better. He thought not, probably only ring forts and such. </div>
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It was attacked by Edward the Bruce even though his brother Robert the Bruce (who became king of Scotland) married the daughter of the family of the castle. And, the road leading up too the castle was a WW2 airplane runway for a short time.</div>
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In search of a camp for the night I headed up into the Mourne Mountains. It wad a bit more climbing than I expected, but beautiful.<br />
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Campsite found I the back posture of a lodge, I decided to take advantage of the shower I could take later and go for a jog. I ran into the mountains since that's where people seemed to be going. It was a little boggy to say the least. My run was more of a hike through sheep pastures without a trail. At one point I thought I was developing a gnarly case of athletes foot as my toes were burning and itchy. Then I remembered I spilt boiling coffee all over my foot this morning so that was kind of positive.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;"> My shower was everything I hopped it would be and I slept like a rock listening to rain patter on my tent.</span>Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-92147152096684664182019-09-23T13:26:00.000-07:002022-07-12T18:14:06.717-07:00(#6/12) Biking, Whiskey, Biking, Guinness.17 Sept<br />
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Since I was "stealth camping," a much edgier way of saying sleeping in the bushes, I was up early and on my way. Hours of biking later, and at a much more appropriate time than I would have chosen, I found myself at the Bushmills Distillery. Quite possibly the oldest distillery in the world, it was guaranteed a liscense to distill in 1608 by James I.<br />
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Properly fortified, I headed to the northern coast and the much anticipated Giant's Causeway. An uplift of columnar basalt that looks like gigantic cobblestones.</div>
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One of the most popular sites in Ireland, it was crawling with people. Not everyone seemed to be impressed, some of the best things I overheard:<br />
"Oh, it must be underwater right now." (It was low tide)<br />
"What is everybody looking at?!"<br />
"We should have gone to the distillery instead."<br />
I thought it was well worth the 2 day bike ride and achy legs it took too get here. Especially when I could get bird's eye view of the causeway.<br />
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There is a trail that follows 167 stone steps up the side of the sea cliff, taking you along the pastures on top. You could see the island of Scotland in the distance and for such a busy attraction, I had the trail to myself.</div>
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I jumped on my bike and added 10 more miles to my day In order tho sleep in a real bed for the first time on this trip. My day finished with a fantastic burger, my first Guinness in Ireland, and a sunset walk around the peninsula.<br />
<br />Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-12877953731844781112019-09-22T12:32:00.000-07:002022-07-12T18:14:20.052-07:00(#7/12) Running Out of Sunscreen20 Sept<br />
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Sometimes the popular places are popular for very good reason. I was hesitant to bike the Ring of Kerry because everyone goes there, but it was spectacular, not too busy, and well worth the sweaty, steep climbs.<br />
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I went clockwise starting through the Gap of Dunloe where there are so many road hazards that they just mark them all in the beginning and call it good. This was a lucky direction to go as all the tour buses go counter clockwise so they never came up behind me to pass.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkh9yHDJSFjW1nbcPKeHJSzGZqo-dsR3iUkG_fmRes2OLSh-TaU6MuhfVyku1sqk03Q8nFuhCN24HQns9Mc8rmgxhw_TcNPTlpklNGuJDQs3jeI7rHYOOfpTYQEHgzs78EgD0tje-hBQL-/s1600/P_20190919_084851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkh9yHDJSFjW1nbcPKeHJSzGZqo-dsR3iUkG_fmRes2OLSh-TaU6MuhfVyku1sqk03Q8nFuhCN24HQns9Mc8rmgxhw_TcNPTlpklNGuJDQs3jeI7rHYOOfpTYQEHgzs78EgD0tje-hBQL-/s640/P_20190919_084851.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
My early morning start got sidetracked by the amount of cheery people I stopped to talk to. Besides donkies in the road, bikers stop to chat, people who used to bike stop to chat, and people who cannot believe you are biking stop to chat. I took a slight detour to a recommended pancake house, Stawberry Field's, and had a salmon leek pancake that I will dream about for years to come.<br />
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The road zig Zags up unexpectedly high roads, passes through villages full of ice cream flavors like gin, elderflower, and brown bread, then throws view after sparkling view in your face.<br />
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Crumbly ruins dot the hillsides and castles guard every bay. I spent the night tucked into a little sandy beach watching surfers catch the last waves of the day. Then drank with them until the stars and milky way lit up the night because the whole peninsula is a dark sky zone.<br />
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It got windy throughout the night, thank god for earplugs so I could sleep over the flapping of my tent. The wind meant that my tent was bone dry the next morning, a rarity in this country.<br />
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I expected the wind would make cycling brutal, but even the 35mph gusts rarely seemed to hit head on and I often got a boost as I pedaled along. Stopping for a sandwich and a beer, I found out that out had been rainy and cold all summer long. All the locals were a bit giddy with the change in weather.<br />
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This has to be one of the top cycle routes I've ever taken even though it was much harder than I expected. I was feeling pretty lucky as I left the view over looking the Dingle peninsula and headed back inland toward Killarney.<br />
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Back I town I actually paid to camp as I was I desperate need of a shower and some greasy dinner.Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-82208764157379997122019-09-21T11:30:00.000-07:002022-07-12T18:14:48.623-07:00(#8/12) Moving at a Slower Pace23 Sept<br />
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After the Ring of Kerry, I decided to back off the cycling and save my legs for my upcoming race (more about that poor choice later). I tootled around Killarney for one more day, visiting the fantastic Muckross House. The estate has been preserved to its mid 1800 state and walking through the insides was like having a Downton Abby moment, especially walking through the kitchen hallways with a huge row of bells to call the servants.<br />
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Queen Victoria visited here just before Albert died, and her visit was a large part why the owner went into debt and lost the house.<br />
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Muckross Abbey was built in the 1400s by the Franciscan monks. Not soon after, Henry VIII dissolved the monastery, they started up again after his death but the monastery fell into complete ruin when Cromwell came through in the 1640s.<br />
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I threw my bike into a train, easy, and rode up to Thurles. I almost didn't make it off the train because the platform was on the other side. Someone outside the train had to take 3 bikes out before mine could get unloaded. With the quick stop it was a little frantic, but as always, things worked out fine. <br />
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A 12 mile, thankfully flat, cycle brought me to the Rock of Cashel, seat of the ancient irish kings. Once a castle site, it became purely religious in the 11th century and now is made up of St Patrick's cathedral and Cormac's chapel.<br />
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Cormac's chapel was built in 1130 out of beautifully carved sandstone. Unlike most of the pointy gothic style of Ireland's medieval buildings, the chapel was built with the rounded romanesque archways and geometric designs.<br />
Inside is the oldest intact stone stairway in all of Ireland.<br />
The most notable thing about the chapel is the remnants of frescoes that used vermilion from Spain for the red colors and very expensive lapis lazuli (blue) from Afghanistan to depict biblical scenes.<br />
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There was also a sarcophagus predating the chapel that had Nordic dragons, figure eights, and what looked like mermaids all over it. Important bodies were put in there, covered in lime, and they decomposed in about 5 weeks. The bones were taken out, put someplace special, and someone else important got to take their turn.<br />
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The chapel has only been open for a few years and to limit the humidity and bacteria inside, only a few people get to go in each day. I got lucky because it was pouring rain and not many people were motivated to be outside.<br />
Tomorrow, I'll take advantage of any break in the rain to cycle for an hour back to Thurles, squeeze my bike into a train, and make it through to Dublin.Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9219493770702610382.post-51731351488179108772019-09-14T10:37:00.000-07:002022-07-12T18:17:02.393-07:00(#9/12) Whisky and gardens everywhere I look25 Sept<br />
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Lucky for me the Jameson Distillery is in between the two train stations in Dublin. No whisky flights were available so I tried 2 different, delicious varieties and then caught my next train a little more rosy in the cheeks.<br />
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I biked just out of Bray to a campsite that is more of the lady's backyard than anything else. Although it's not the most exciting place to stay, in is more or less in the middle of where I need to be.<br />
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Fortunately, just a quick hike up the hill gives fantastic 360 views of the surrounding mountains and a view of my tiny green tent below.<br />
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I woke up early and cycled to Powerscourt Gardens, rated 3rd best garden in the world by national geographic. It did not disappoint. Even this late on the year there were hundreds of flowers in bloom and the trees were truly impressive. The actual house was a private residence until the 1970s when a fire destroyed the entire interior. It was a burned out shell until the current Powerscourt descendents revitalized the gardens, rebuilt the ballroom for events, and turned the rest of the house into retail space for artists, weaver's, irish foods, and other fun stuff.<br />
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Recently they added a distillery on site. Only 1 year old, they are a long way off from producing their whisky on site, but their master distiller brought his whisky to Powerscourt and I was able to try a delicious 14 year.<br />
On the way back to my little campground, I got lost on the twisty, numerous side roads and found myself a quick hike away from views that stretched all the way from the ocean to 25 miles inland. It just so happened that my vantage point gave me a glimpse of the terrain I will be running on Saturday (painful details later) and I was actually excited about the run. With such beautiful scenery and light, I did the only natural thing and took selfies and read my book before zipping back down to familiar roads below.<br />
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<br />Liz Ryenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12936023250577226429noreply@blogger.com0