New Zealand - St James Cycleway and Old Ghost Road (#1/3)

2 March 2025

The problem with New Zealand is that every inch of it is worth visiting, but always a sucker for mountains and remote places, the South Island seemed the right fit. The goal; as many major single track trails as I could fit into three weeks. At the airport check in, the woman behind me in line asked me what was in my giant bike logo covered cardboard box. "Is that a T.V?" Sigh. 

Landing in Christchurch felt like being in Seattle on a sunny day but with different bird songs. Using the airport's convenient bike assembly station complete with tools and tire pump, I packed up and rode into a city that felt more like a park. The botanical gardens were gorgeous and I promptly got kicked out- no bikes allowed. After apologizing profusely, I found a bike path that led to a lake and watched men with giant remote control sailboats race each other alongside big brown ducks with bright white heads that were not bald eagles.

I found my hostel, a converted prison where all the rooms are old cells with thick concrete walls, one tiny window high on the wall, and twin bunk beds since nothing bigger would fit in the rooms. Built in 1874 and operated until 1999, the prison still has original graffiti preserved on portions of the walls and one original cell. After a very quiet, secure night, I loaded up with 4 days of food and took the shuttle 2 hours north west to Hanmer Springs. 

Riding uphill into a fierce headwind unaccustomed to the 90 temps was not the ideal way to start, but I was absolutely giddy. Once I hit the St James Cycle Way, the trail was smooth and twisted through big open grassland. Just off my route, my map showed a hot spring icon that I had to investigate. Lucky for me, the Cow Creek Springs were tucked into a side canyon just out of the big windy valley. Unlucky for me, I realized that the wind had been keeping the sand flies at bay. Thousands of fruit fly sized blood sucking evil creatures that bite deep enough to make you bleed and leave itchy welts that last (as I was soon to discover) for 2 weeks. I ran to the springs, pulled my stocking cap low over my ears, and stayed submerged up to my bottom lip until dark. 

A hot and beautiful day winding through wide mountain valleys with multiple dips in the river, a 3 mile hike a bike up Mailing Pass, and more sand fly bites. A major bridge washed out near the pool hut but it was easy to backtrack the way I came and find a place where the river widened in order to cross. The huts were always fun to check out, but with old beds springs, lots of rodent detritus, and small windows if any, I found it much more enjoyable to stay in my tent. I'm surprised more people don't ride this trail, it was stunning and a perfect way to start the trip.

The ride out Rainbow Valley was full of orange bumble bees and empty of cars. I had to find a camp along the road but fortunately there are little dirt roads for angler access that take you down to the river and with minimal effort, I was able to find a quiet, out of the way place to camp with a stellar riverside view. I watched a couple fly fishing in the river for almost an hour without a bite. As soon as they left with a wave, the fish started leaping and splashing, they must have known. 

5 March

The Old Ghost Road is the whole reason I planned this trip. Almost 9,000' of elevation in 52 miles of machine and hand built single track based on a rugged mining route from the late 1800s. There are beautiful Back country huts with glass doors, airy kitchens, and decks that perch you out over the mountain vistas. I would absolutely recommend that you stay in one. I however, am not good with knowing where I am going to sleep each night, so I had a long ride in order to make it to the small first come first serve hut. I had been looking forward to riding this route for a year and it did not disappoint.

The trail switchbacks through the forest past half buried mining machinery pieces and collapsed buildings. Sneak peaks of mountain views kept me excited about the climb. Some sections of the trail are rock ledges that have been blasted out and have chain link fencing cabled to the wall above so you don't teeter off into the valley 2k feet below. Waterfalls, suspension (swing) bridges, rock gardens, and ridge line riding; I am astounded at the amount of work that has gone into this trail. 

Dropping into the Stern River Valley, the trail switchbacks, so smooth, so fun, so fast, and WHAM! I catch my pedal on a tight corner and slam onto the ground in a tangle with my bike, landing hard enough that I take stock of myself before I move. The trail was so amazing, so good, that I forgot I was miles away from any access point or help. Gingerly I stand and lift my bike up. the handlebars have twisted but thankfully nothing bent, just needed realignment and the headset tightened back up. Deep breath and a moment to remember that this is a remote backcountry route. 

After 32 miles and 5,500 feet of climbing, I was so relieved to cross the creek, turn the corner and see the Goat Creek Hut. Built in 1957, this was the first hut on the trail system.  It was supposed to be 12x10' but was damaged in the air drop and is now a 12x8' shelter. I opened the door and was faced with the bold beady eyes of a mouse sitting on the counter. I woke up to grey skies and heavy dew outside. I was happy to be in my grubby little hut with my mouse friend. He left me and my things alone during the night and in return, I swept up the instant coffee packets he had been feasting on. With only 18 miles of trail left, I let my body have a slow lazy start. 

Off the mountain ridges, the drama of the trail did not end. The last few miles were a series of improbable swing bridges clinging to the side of a river gorge. The trail was so improbable and fun to ride but I was ready for a beer and a food that hadn't been smashed into my bike bags for days. 

If the prospect of clean, dry sheets and a shower hadn't been enough, the all in one Seddonville Hotel/ Bar/ Grocery/ Post office owner's mullet would have convinced me this was where I wanted to be. I ordered an everything burger that came with beets, onions, coleslaw, pineapple, fried egg, hash brown patty, lettuce, tomatoes, etc. It was pretty intense. As I was going back to my room for the night, the owner asked if I wanted a glass of milk to take with me. This was a good day.