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New Zealand - St James Cycleway and Old Ghost Road (#1/3)

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2 March 2025 The problem with New Zealand is that every inch of it is worth visiting, but always a sucker for mountains and remote places, the South Island seemed the right fit. The goal; as many major single track trails as I could fit into three weeks. At the airport check in, the woman behind me in line asked me what was in my giant bike logo covered cardboard box. "Is that a T.V?" Sigh.  Landing in Christchurch felt like being in Seattle on a sunny day but with different bird songs. Using the airport's convenient bike assembly station complete with tools and tire pump, I packed up and rode into a city that felt more like a park. The botanical gardens were gorgeous and I promptly got kicked out- no bikes allowed. After apologizing profusely, I found a bike path that led to a lake and watched men with giant remote control sailboats race each other alongside big brown ducks with bright white heads that were not bald eagles. I found my hostel, a converted prison where all...
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New Zealand- Paproa Track and West Coast Wilderness Trail (#2/3)

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 8 March 2025 After the Old Ghost Road, it felt wonderful to ride along the coast stopping at little cafes for meat pies, cookies, and coffee. While everyone hears about the Great Tracks of the country, no one talks about the glorious "Toastie."  I ate them throughout my trip and while you may call it a grilled cheese, the flavors were next level. Toasties with dill pickles, ham, and shallots. Toasties with spicy fig jam, arugula, and caramelized onions. Toasties with brisket, 3 kinds of cheese, tomato jam, and pineapple. Grilled cheese will never be the same. I digress. I found a perfect spot to camp on the beach and shared a fire with some van campers and some beta about the upcoming Paparoa Track.  The next morning, I biked into town, walked around Pancake Rocks- well worth it, stopped at the visitor center and snagged the last spot at the Poroari Hut, just 9.5 miles up the trail for the night. Onward and upward to experience hut life.  Not so sure about hut life....
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New Zealand - Wanaka to Queenstown and Around the Mountains Tail 2025 (#3/3)

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 14 March 2025 Standing on the side of the road outside the town of Franz Joseph, a French guy named Micheal stopped to give me ride. Originally he drive right past me, then told himself, "Don't be so French!" and turned around to pick me up. His English was rough and my French was remedial but we laughed our way through the mountains. When we stopped for coffee, I jumped out of the van, my legs buckled, and I fell to the ground. Micheal came around the side of the van and doubled over in laughter. "Oh! Oh! Oh!" He said, "I see! Zee bike is not zee problem, YOU are zee problem!" He shook his head, walked away, then realized he left me on the ground, quickly ran back over to ask if I needed help, chuckling and shaking his head the whole time.  The ride over the mountains was lovely, the good company made time fly, and all too soon Micheal dropped me off in Lake Hawea. I decided instead of heading back to Christchuch, I would make a run south to Queensto...
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The Farthest South (#1/6)

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 3 March 2024  I have stepped into a world of zip-off hiking pants and wind. Puerto Natales, on the southern tip of Chile, is a wind blasted little town that shuttles people to one of the most popular hikes in the world. Perched on the edge of a white capped bay, the town feels both modern and worn at the same time. The harbor is full of fishing boats, ferries, barges, and tankers. The industrial port is a stark contrast to the shops full of tour companies and gear shops.  With time to kill before my ferry, which only runs once per week, I rode my bike 20 miles north to the Milodon Caves where remnants of a giant sloth, including the hairy pelt, were found in 1845. The sloth is features throughout Puerto Natales so seeing the caves felt like a must. The caves were huge and the views stunning. People have been using them for 11,000 years, back when saber tooth tigers roamed the land.  Hiking up to the view point, I ate sweet little ground berries and listened to wild ...
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Day Hikes and Cruises (#2/6)

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 10 March 2024 With one more day to kill before my ferry to Puerto Yungay, I hopped on a bus that whisked me and hundreds of nylon clad hikers to Torres del Paine.  With high clouds and clear skies, the park was stunning and I started up the most popular trail to the three towers. Despite having to dodge around tours, their guides cheer and encouraging them onwards and upwards, the trail was beautiful and the lake more stunning than any picture could do justice. I decided to forgo the almost obligatory yoga pose in front of the lake and instead sat on a rock and ate my empanadas.  Knowing I should get my feet used to miles, I took the long way back along lakes and rivers and felt like I had the place to myself. This was a welcome treat with how popular the park is. Later I found all the people drinking beer at one of the refugios so I felt I had to join my fellow hikers in a pint while I waited for the bus.  A quick rainstorm followed by rainbows and the sun bursting...
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