The Last Road Home (#6/6)

 22 March

Tired After the O Trek I was tempted to take a 2 hour bus ride back to Puerto Natalas. But... the skies were clear and calm and I only had one more chance to camp out before I flew home. The road was a steep 1,000 foot climb but the scenery kept me going. I'm willing to put up with quite a bit of discomfort for good views. The passing car drivers cheered me on as I pedaled upwards, stopping every 10 minutes for another picture. 

In an area known for a high number of Pumas, I kept my eyes scanning the hillsides as I biked along. Then, there! A mob of people wearing zip off pants and cars lining the roadside. Binoculars and spotting scopes out, fingers pointing into the distance, and yes! In the far, far, far distance, barely visible to the naked eye was a majestic, powerful looking brown dot on the horizon. I borrowed some binoculars and there she was, a female puma laying down watching her three cubs chew on the guanaco she had killed a couple  days earlier. 

The views of the mountains I had just circumnavigated were stunning, better than on the hike. Tired legs forgotten, I dawdled along, stopping at every waterfall and overlook to eat a few potato chips and procrastinate leaving the park. 35 miles later I found the perfect campsite and settled in for the night. 

The next morning I brewed some tea and watched the sunrise over Torres del Paine so thankful that I had decided to ride back to the town instead of take the bus. 

55 more long and beautiful miles to later I rolled into Puerto Natales with bags full of dirty clothes and damp camping gear. Back in the hostel I apologized in advance to my roommates and aired and dried everything out around the room. 

I washed a set of clothes to wear on the plane for the next morning, but since it's Patagonia things didn't completely dry. I didn't do the best job so I was not only was I the slightly stinky one on the plane, but I was damp for the first part of the journey home. 

Long flights and long layovers gave me plenty of time to think back on what an amazing place I had just traveled through. It was wet, cold, sometimes super windy, sometimes snowing, and so, so good. The easy trips are never as satisfying as the ones that challenge you and the lows make the high points feel as though you are the luckiest person alive. I would go again, I would stay longer, I would turn around and repeat it all if I could.