A headwind, a heater, and a hitchhike

 18 March

I left El Calafate with a rippin' tail wind. The landscape changed dramatically from mountains and glaciers to dry, open plains dotted with guanacos.

My easy riding came to an abrupt halt when I had to turn right. Suddenly, slammed with 35 mph head and crosswinds, my forward progress slowed to a drunkard's weave as the wind pushed me across the road and I heaved my way back. With the sun getting low and a large ditch providing a welcome windbreak, I called it a day. 

I pitched my tent close to a pool of water surrounded by hoof prints. In the morning I woke up to... Snow! I was really hoping for guanacos. The wind was still howling and I had to be in Torres del Paine, 130 miles away by next day. I scraped the ice off my tent and pushed my bike back up onto the road. 

Thankfully the day was sunny and the sky was full of dozens of Chilean Condors riding the heavy winds

The wind was so strong I found it easier to push my bike instead of ride it. Even so, the wind would send my back tire skittering sideways and if have to yank it back upright. After 28 miles in 7 hours, I finally came to the only windbreak, a combination police and road maintenance station. I sat in the dirt eating peanuts until a road crew worker asked if I wanted to come inside. He offered me coffee and a private room in the bunkhouse (it was a converted semi trailer) for $4. It had a heater. Sold. 

So many people had been asking me if I had been warm enough at night. Always trying to practice my Spanish, I thought I had been telling them, not to worry, my sleeping bag was very warm, but instead I'd been saying my sleeping bag is very ready for some sexy time. Fortunately the weather has been such that phrase has never been applicable to myself. 

The next morning was so calm. I left just before sunrise to try and make it across the border and hopefully hitchhike to the park. It was my favorite morning of riding, not a car on the road and the most glorious sunrise all to myself.

I pedaled into Cerre Castillo around noon needing 5 days worth of food for my upcoming hike and a 60 mile ride up a dirt road to get me there. Luckily, an empty van pulled up in front of the grocery store. I asked the driver if he could take me and my bike to Torres del Paine and if he could wait 5 minutes for me to buy groceries. He agreed and I frantically ran around the store throwing food into the counter while his passenger was yelling, "Muchatcha! Hurry!! We have to get to work!!!!" Ack! Hopefully it was enough.

The workers were driving the company van so they apologized, but couldn't take me all the way to the front gate. Instead they dropped me off 1km before the entrance on the side of the road and told me not to tell. Feeling giddy that I had made it there at all, I pedaled to my campsite to change into backpacker mode.