The Farthest South

 3 March 2024 

I have stepped into a world of zip-off hiking pants and wind. Puerto Natales, on the southern tip of Chile, is a wind blasted little town that shuttles people to one of the most popular hikes in the world. Perched on the edge of a white capped bay, the town feels both modern and worn at the same time. The harbor is full of fishing boats, ferries, barges, and tankers. The industrial port is a stark contrast to the shops full of tour companies and gear shops. 

With time to kill before my ferry, which only runs once per week, I rode my bike 20 miles north to the Milodon Caves where remnants of a giant sloth, including the hairy pelt, were found in 1845. The sloth is features throughout Puerto Natales so seeing the caves felt like a must. The caves were huge and the views stunning. People have been using them for 11,000 years, back when saber tooth tigers roamed the land. 

Hiking up to the view point, I ate sweet little ground berries and listened to wild parakeets jabbering in the trees. Through the misty skies, the peaks surrounding Torres del Paine national Park gave me tantalizing glimpses into what's to come. 

I ate some lunch, climbed on some rocks, biked all the trails in the park, watched the drizzly rain settle in for the day, and decided it was time to return to town. I took the back way which was good because I saw pink flamingos floating in the bay and was able to test my new rain coat out, but bad because I got plastered in mud. 

At my hostel I was able to hose down my bike (and my pants) then hop into a steamy shower. I didn't know how lucky I was until the front desk told me that the city had a main line break and all water would be shut down until late tonight. 

Feels like a good start.