(#7/9) Last push to Tokyo!

16 Sept

 My days of luxury came to an end. Walking around the temples and shrines of Nikko, and staying in one place for 2 whole nights was exactly what I needed. Using my legs to walk through people's wedding pictures instead of cycling was a wonderful change of pace.
 I ate everything I saw including the local delicacy-the skin that forms when you boil bean curds. It tastes like tofu (so it tastes like nothing) and I ate it a few different ways. In thin slices dipped in wasabi and soy, rolled and plopped into a bowl of soba noodles, and wrapped around sweet rice and deep fried. All good.

With 150kms left to tokyo, rainy days, and navigating traffic, I planned to break it up into 2 days. Since there weren't any hotels less than $200 per night in between, once again I found myself wild camping, this time in the very strange park of Koba.

 
The park looked like an old military base and most of it was head high bamboo and foliage. Now it was perhaps a nature refuge for enthusiastic super boars.

It got later and later and I started wondering where I was going to pitch my tent. Since the park surrounded a river there were people fishing in every mowed area. Rusty loud speakers lined what looked like an airstrip and guard towers were spaced along what now was a bike path. There were police cars at the entrances and big signs saying the park closed at 5pm. Not the most comfortable feeling place, but this was my option, and the mosquitoes were coming after me in droves so I made the best of it. I tried to pitch my tent somewhat out of the way, and despite being on pavement, the area I found was at least blocked off to cars.
I woke up with the sunrise and made great time into Tokyo. I sat at a river park watching kids play baseball just reveling in the fact that I had ridden my bike from sapporo to tokyo.

a short distance to my hotel took me over 2 hours to navigate. I was unused to the amount of people that are just walking around everywhere. Some food and a beer gave me the sustenance to brave the hoards, track down a bike box and book a bus ticket to the airport for the 19th. Long, tiring, but successful day.

(#8/9) Tokyo is a crazy city

17 Sept- Monday (national respect the elders day)

 With the temps above 30 and the humidity above 87% I slowly walked toward the closest botanical garden and tried to be motivated to explore Tokyo. It just wasn't happening. I couldn't even motivate to get up for ice cream, so I spent the morning reading in the park. In the early afternoon the humidity seemed to drop and I began to explore.

 Plastic food lined every street which can be very handy helping you work up an appetite. The city is non stop simulation, flashing lights, gigantic tv's, robots, music blasting from shops and from music trucks that cruise the streets. You can dress up like super Mario and drive a go cart through the city. There are cafes filled with cats that you can play with while you drink coffee and cafes with live owls and hedgehogs.
It took me awhile to find things because not everything is street level. Restaurants that are advertised at ground level can be 7 floors up and today I found a huge food area where you can buy bakery treats, candies, vegetables, meats all underneath the train station.

 I had to try a capsule hotel where your room is the size of a twin matress and you have to crawl into it. I love it! Much bigger than my tent, there are lockers and wonderfully clean facilities. 

 When I checked in I left my shoes at the door and was given a little bag with slippers, towels, and a toothbrush.

It's a little weird to think there are people sleeping on each side of you as well as above or below, but not that much different than bunk beds and way more private than a dorm room.

 I feel a like I'm walking through a theme park every time I leave my hotel. I'm in the red light district so there are tons of love hotels with their rate options posted for just a "rest" or "full night." Signs for massage with scantily clad buxom women give the area a little more color.

The shinjuku area of Tokyo has all these tiny little streets, more like alleyways where there are bars and restaurants that can only seat 6-10 people. Chicken and veggies grill right on the bar and mixed drinks are cheaper than beer. 

As I was heading back to my hotel, the humidity finally broke in a theatrical downpour with cracks and rumbles of thunder. The rain pounded down until the streets were running streams. Hopefully this means a little cooler for tomorrow.

(#9/9) A Tough but Rewarding Trip

20 September 2018- Thursday

Oh Japan. When deciding on this trip I though it would be an easy place to go. Little did I realize that this country had a lot of challenge in store for me. I had days with rain, humidity, and very steep hills. There were many moments when I wanted to fire my vacation planner and wondered why I couldn't be happy just sitting on a beach drinking Mai Tais. 

Now, sitting at home, it's dawning on me just how unique, how special, and despite how it may have sounded in my blog, how fun it was to travel through Japan.

Tokyo is Japan condensed into a city of immense proportions. I had thought I would walk everywhere but going 2 inches on my tourist map equaled almost 2 hours of walking. So, with a deep breath I faced the Tokyo subway starting at the busiest station in the city... just in time for morning rush hour.

The subway becomes so overcrowded that men have jobs standing on the platform to push people in as tightly as possible in order to allow the doors to close. I would have taken a picture, but we were packed in so close that I didn't even have enough space to lift my arms. You could hear audible "oofs" as I was mooshed and squished into the far side of the carriage. Thankfully, by the time I made it to my stop I was able to squirm my way out of the car.

I wanted to see the hundreds of Tori gates at the Hie Shrine, a quiet place set in the middle of high rises and government buildings. I had the place mostly to myself, said a quick prayer that I would get myself and my bike safely home, and left for more sightseeing.
On the way to the Imperial Palace, I passed a building with two fancy Pagani sports cars inside. Later I found out these cars are 1.4- 2.4 million dollars each. I'm a little shocked they even let me in the door.

Around the Palace I was in the right place at the right time to see the Super Mario Karts go by. You can sign up to drive go carts through downtown Tokyo dressed as Super Mario characters, mustaches included. It made me laugh out loud and shake my head about how many things are a possibility only in Japan.

Tokyo was very hot and very humid. I walked as slowly as I could from iced coffee shop to ice cream shop and was thankful for the tall buildings as they offered shade.

Sushi for lunch and a stop at the well done Edo Era Museum. I found out that Kubuchi Theater, known for male only actors, lots of drumming and sounds made by hand instruments, has been happening since at least the early 17th century. Theaters were huge so acting was over exaggerated and faces were painted white to make them more visible.

A quick trip up one of the sky scrappers to get a better vantage point. I almost saw Mt Fugi (the base was showing through the clouds) but got a better idea of just how large the city is.

My last worry was how to get my bicycle home. I found a box and somehow managed to carry it while pushing my loaded bike through the streets over 1km to the bus station. I disassembled my bike and packed it up right on the sidewalk. I had been so worried about this step, but like everything else, it worked out easily.
I will miss the toilets and the quiet villages scattered in between mountains. I still can't believe such a jungle, full of screaming insects and crickets that sound like bells chiming can turn into a world class ski area. I can't believe the history, the culture, the tradition that exists here.
The traveling was challenging, with road signs in a different alphabet and little to no English spoken in the north, but I made my way. I had help when I needed it, no regrets about how I traveled, and I am leaving with a profound respect for this beautiful place.
Thank you Japan!