Days of bread, cheese, coffee, and one creepy man #13/13

28 September

So many times on this trip, despite the obstacles put in front of me, everything has had a way of working out to get me what I need. Whether it is a place to dry of and warm up, a meal, or just someone coming along to lift my spirits.

Back in the capital I spent my last few days wandering the streets and filing myself with bread, cheese, and coffee all day long. There are open air markets everywhere selling antiques, flowers, food, and if course tourist trinkets.



One of the more interesting places is the Dry Bridge Market. Half art walk and half antique market, people spread out all sorts of goods out on the sidewalks. You can buy Solviet military knives, crystal stemware, antique vessels, records, military medals, jewlery, car speakers, and paintings. Some people are selling their family treasures and others are just selling, but it's a wonderful place to wander for an afternoon.

I wanted to go to the museum of Georgia mostly to learn more

about the 70 years of Russian occupation. From 1921-1991 the Soviets took control of Georgia and killed more than 80,000 people. Military, wealthy families, and priests were killed by the thousands along with anyone who participated in anti Soviet activity. Another 400,000 were deported but many of these people were later re-tried and killed. When WWII started, Georgians were hopeful for their independence but it took public protest and another fifty years before Georgia won it's independence. Between the war and the occupation, over 880,000 Georgians list their lives. There are still two areas in Georgia, Abkhazia and Odessa that are under Russian rule.

After the museum it seemed fitting to go to church. The churches here are very casual in some ways. People walk in and out constantly regardless of if there is a service in session. Georgians were taking photos (so I snuck one in too) letting their phones ring, and walking back and forth to pray and light candles at the various paintings on the walls.

I fortified myself with potato stuffed bread, this is not a place to visit if you are lactose or gluten intolerant, and onward to Vake park. A huge green space West of the city. The formal promenade leads to a giant statue and off the sides are little exercise parks, tennis courts, or running paths. The park was full of children and the first runners I've seen since being in Georgia. Walking up three hill I came to turtle lake, had a coffee, listened to the old men play backgammon, and headed back down.

In the last 15 years Georgia has become more of a tourist destination and made huge efforts to promote and clean up the country. The crime rates is extremely low and while some of the graffiti is fairly odd "My pants make you wet yourself," some is very artistic.

I am so impressed with Georgia. I thought one month would be

enough to see what i wanted to, but I have barely scratched the surface. I never made it to Azerbaijan or Armenia, but there is always next time! 

My bike is packed, my laundry is washed or given away. My last challenge is to avoid the creepy guy at the hostel who keeps telling me I need to learn English because if I go to England I won't be able to understand anyone, and wants to talk about the feelings of love. He always seems to be waiting at the table, beer in hand for when I walk through the door. 

Home is sounding like the right place to head towards!

PS- The total cost of my trip (excluding airfare) was $508.00. traveling here is a budget traveler's dream!