The Lofoten Islands #3/13

From Oslo I traveled 18 hours north by train and 3 hours north by ferry to land in Moskenes on the Lofoten Islands. Everywhere you look is a postcard picture. The islands used to be supported by cod fishing but tourism now helps the economy quite a bit.

For the train ride I bought bread, cheese, and cookies. I didn't realize that I bought stinky cheese. Every time I opened my bag the strong odor of stinky feet and baf gas permeated the train. I started to feel really bad for all the other passengers so I limited myself to granola bars and waited until ibwad out on the deck of the ferry before I ate a sandwich.

The town of Reins was the reason that I really wanted to come up here, but so many places along the way were just as beautiful. I didn't expect the white sandy beaches. When the sun shines on the water it turns a brilliant turquoise and looks more like Greece than somewhere in the arctic circle. I had to kick off my shoes and run around on the beach. The water was cold, but when else will I be able to put my feet in the arctic ocean? 

I sat on the beach and ate a stinky cheese sandwich. I admit, it was getting a little boring, but Norway is not a place I am going to waste food. I camped on a bluff overlooking the ocean and was asleep at 7pm. All the travel and lack of sleep had finally caught up with me and I found myself with a head full of snot and feeling crappy. I don't know why it is called a cold when it should be called the "I think I may die disease." 

I woke up at 3am to... Sunshine! After twiddling my thumbs for 2 hours I decided to get on my bike. The roads were fairly flat, the temps were perfect, and I felt my head cold slightly lift the more I cycled on. I pedaled through my first tunnel that went under a fjord. First I would add a few layers because the tunnels are desperately cold, then there is an exhilarating descent in the semi darkness followed by a grunting huffing slog back up the other side and into the blinding light.

I found a beautiful place to camp in a peat bog underneath a waterfall. It was so soft that I didn't use a sleeping pad. U wouldn't have even put my tent up but after I sat down I saw thousands of spider webs. I settled down to a dinner of pasta and stinky cheese, thank god the last of it. When I woke up the next morning I felt better than ever and set out again.

The next day was an exercise in finding water and food. I ended up drinking out if streams and taking water from motorcyclists, but I could only find food at gas stations. They do however, have the most amazing hamburdets dropping with grease and covered with bacon for only $20. I have a theory that small town Norwegians do not exsist between the hours of 6pm and 9am.

Finally, day 3 of cycling, I made it to a grocery store that was open and bought my first beer! Ahhhh, the relief. I made it to Narvik soon after to find out that 1. I smell, and 2. I have only two more days until I am back in Bodo where I got off the train.